PERFECTIONIST PAUL HOMES IN FOR SUCCESS

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street Edinburgh EH3 5AH www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday: 12-2 Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday: 6.30-23.30 0131 226 3500 Stockbridge is one of my favourite parts of Edinburgh. It still retains that homely, village feel, but was incorporated into Edinburgh in the 19th century and it hugs the banks of the Water of Leith as it trundles down to the River Forth. It is little wonder that chef Paul Gunning (pictured) decided to plump for a basement in the trendy, middle-class area to open a new restaurant. And that leap of faith five months ago appears to be paying off. Purslane – named after a small family of succulent leaves, all but one of which is found in the British isles - was packed on the midweek night we were there. That is a testament to Paul’s undoubted craft and artistic flair. His dishes are eye-catching as well as mouth-watering. This cosy restaurant is well worth visiting and not just for the charming location, tucked in among an eclectic mix of sometimes quirky shops – and a few charity outlets -plus a plethora of welcoming restaurants and pubs. Competition is tough. Historic Stockbridge, incidentally, is named after the wooden bridge which used to straddle the nearby river. Painter Henry Raeburn used to live nearby and it has a rich sporting history. The first rugby international between Scotland and England was held at Raeburn Place while, across the road, The Grange Club is the home of Scottish cricket. Indeed, the ground hosted games during the 1999 Cricket World Cup. On a daily basis, Stockbridge is home to some of the most desirable dwellings in the city and it also boasts some distinctive food shops. A game butcher, a wonderful fishmonger, local bread shops are features and the area’s strong association with food includes a distinctive cheese shop. It is no surprise therefore that Paul, who has worked in five star hotels and two to three starred Michelin restaurants, uses local produce, including cheese from the cheese shop, I J Mellis, in his distinctive and constantly evolving offering. Duncan and I spent some time exploring the small but tempting menu before selecting. My dietary problem (lactose intolerant) was not a problem. There are five choices for starter. Chicken liver parfait with redcurrant jelly and melba toast, quail roulade with a pancetta and artichoke salad and a bacon cream, salmon roulette with fennel and tomato compote and whisky cured salmon, tuna tartar with caramelised olive puree and asparagus and potato salad with truffle vinaigrette. Hard choice. Duncan plumped for quail roulade. It was beautifully presented but lacked a distinctive taste. My dark coloured tuna tartar, topped with a quail egg, looked fantastic and tasted divine. The sharpness of the flavour made it one of the more memorable starters I’ve had in ages. On to the main. Once again, five possible picks. Pork loin with sweet potato rosti, braised chicory and caramelised apple, spice encrusted lamb pump with Bombay potatoes, spinach puree and curry dressing, pave of cod wrapped in Parma ham with glazed baby vegetables and a potato and ox tail gateau, sea bream with socca chips, Mediterranean vegetables and caponata dressing and vegetable gateaux with spinach puree and spring vegetables. Duncan loves lamb, indeed he used to be an engineer on board ship and transferred lamb regularly from the other side of the world back to Britain. He was enthused by the Paul’s creation. Cooked perfectly pink, retaining the moisture and with a tasty crust, and boasting a subtle curry twist, the dish was sublime. The spinach puree provoked a lively debate as well as showing off the dish to the full. My cod, with a touch of parsley, which worked wonderfully well, lifting the taste of the soft fish, plus the al dente green vegetables, made this a fine dish. We did, however, have room for sweet. Duncan is a keen gardener and makes his own fruit-based desserts from his fruit trees so he had to try one of Paul’s creations. He was bowled over by the roast plum with a rum and Muscavado sauce and vanilla ice cream. So much so, that I was offered only a tiny sample. My roasted apple and thyme sauce was interesting but not in the same league as Duncan’s. Other possible were white chocolate mousse with dark chocolate sauce and raspberry coulis, orange and Cointreau crème brulee, pear mille feuille with crème Chantilly and caramelised almonds or cheese from Mr Mellis’ round the corner. We felt at home at homely Purslane where two courses cost £21.95 and three a value £25.95. The accommodating waiter, recognising that we were keen to try something different, recommended a Romanian pinot noir. Wonderful advice. It was packed with red fruits and spice. Medium-bodied with a refreshing taste. I’m off to find a bottle of Calusari in my local wine shop.