Friday, April 1, 2011

BORROWDALE GATES: A CLASSY RETREAT


Borrowdale Gates Hotel
Grange in Borrowdale
Keswick
Cumbria CA12 5UQ
017687 77204
www.borrowdale-gates.com

Colin and Joy Harrison thought about retirement before spotting another business opportunity on their doorstep.
They had watched the Borrowdale Gates Hotel climb to a peak and then slip backwards and the couple stepped in to buy the property three years ago.
The husband and wife team have spent a small fortune redesigning and refurbishing the three-star establishment.
Every detail has been considered, even the colour of the tiles and the matching bedspread.
Dressing tables have been specially made by local craftsmen – yes you can see the perfect join – and the effect in some of the luxury bedrooms is stunning.
They compare favourably with five-star establishments I’ve visited in recent years, but few have the view that guests at the Borrowdale Gates have from their bedrooms.
The 25-bed property is tucked away in a breathtaking valley at one end of Derwentwater, around 20 miles from the busy M6, and a minute from the quaint Lakeland village of Grange.
You leave the twisty main road and drive over a hump backed bridge before arriving at the spacious car park which nestles beneath the atmospheric Castle Crag and High Spy peaks.
The minute you walk into the hotel, which was originally built by a philanthropist in 1860, you feel at home.
That was particularly appreciated by me as I had just spent three days at the National Conference for the Federation of Small Businesses in the heart of Liverpool. Peace and tranquillity was what I needed.
A shower proceeded a quiet drink in the spacious dining-room while we ordered from the extensive menu. There was no pressure.
Head chef Chris Standhaven, who formerly worked in Michelin-star establishments, uses local produce, whenever possible.
There were eight starters. Roast tomato and basil soup, smoked salmon platter, chicken liver parfait, mango melon and feta cheese salad, duck, rabbit and ham terrine, warm goats cheese courgette, duck spring roll or seared scallops and white pudding.
Pam selected the chicken liver parfait which arrived with marmalade onions, a tasty dish.
I picked the scallops with white pudding after being was assured the pudding was local. The pair mixed well.
On to the main. There was an extensive choice including char grilled Cumbrian steak, pan fried monk fish tail, chorizo and bean cassoulet with tomato and basil sauce, honey-roasted Goosnargh duck breast, pan fried fillet of sea bass and, for vegetarians, taglitella Florentine with asparagus, free-range poached eggs and Parmesan cheese.
Pam picked lamb. The flavour was appreciated. My Cartmel Valley loin of venison on a bed of pickled cabbage was well-presented but lacked bite but the crispy pancetta helped lift the dish.
I’m addicated to Bakewell tart and there was only one choice for me in the sweet selection. Sorry chef. The tart required a lift.
Pam picked lemon mousse with shortbread. The mousse was excellent. However, the shortbread lacked flavour.
Coffee/tea and petit fours are included in the meal package and, once again, the pastry items were lacking.
Our room, with en-suite, was extremely comfortable and the view the following morning was memorable, low clouds shrouding surrounding peaks with vegetation awakening from the winter chill.
I went for a stroll before breakfast. Locals nodded good morning as they walked their dogs and the sound of birds and a local river, flushed with rain, crashing over stones, was heavenly.
Breakfast was superb. A wide selection of fruit and cereal followed by a choice of full Cumberland, fish and egg dishes.
When in Rome. I picked the full Cumberland. No complaints. The sausages were packed with flavour and the smoked bacon was superb. The black pudding was just right and the mushrooms – large ones - were a welcome addition.
A special local tea, which was most refreshing, boosted the meal and we dined overlooking the valley watching a selection of birds pick at several feeders carefully placed for residents to view.
New bedrooms are being added and the lounge has been updated. The bar, tucked discretely at one end of the lounge/dining room, has been replaced and the restaurant upholstered.
More improvements are promised over the next two to three years with a new wing set to be ready in January 2012.
Colin’s clientele mainly comes from a 15 million population cited in a three-hour drive radius which includes Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Liverpool and Manchester.
The Borrowdale Gates is building a reputation. In fact, many clients make regular trips, including a customer from America.
They love the laid back, homely feel. What’s more, they obviously appreciate Colin’s no wedding or function rule. This establishment is for residents plus a discerning drop-in trade.
He lives six miles away in picturesque Bassenthwaite and claims his drive to work is among the best in the world. I did the run along the south side of Derwentwater and it is stunning.
Colin and Joy aim for quality. For example, his carpets are hand-picked by Joy from a leading High Street retailer. Joy designs the decor, not a specialist.
And the couple, who have won a silver award with the English Tourist Board for the hotel, are not concerned about moving to four or five star, more about making you feel at home and well looked after. They and their excellent staff did just that.