SUCHI SPECTACULAR AT AWARD-WINNING KANPAI

STUNNING: food artistry at Kanpai

Kanpai
8-10 Grindlay Street,
Edinburgh
EH3 9AS
www.kanpaisushi.co.uk
Tuesday to Sunday: noon to 2.30pm; 5-10.30pm
0131 228 1602

OPINIONS vary when you mention you mention you are going to a Japanese restaurant. Pre-conceptions are hard to shift.
Some people would relish the experience, others would walk the other way, but more and more people are warming to sushi.
Healthy eating is certainly a draw. The main ingredients of raw fish and rice are naturally low in fat, high in protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.
And the dishes are colourful.
Sushi is traditionally eaten for celebrations and it first developed in South-East Asia and spread to China and then Japan.
The word means sour tasting and the first mention in the West appeared in the late 1800s.
Western palates have seen an adaption with rolls being introduced along with non-traditional mayonnaise, avocado and even cream cheese.
And the advent of sushi bars at main stations and airports, and in the centre of major cities, plus major chains like M&S stocking trays in their retail outlets, has accelerated the trend.
I’m a convert and a regular buyer when I travel domestically, preferring healthy to stodge. John, my companion, a leading promoter at the Acoustic Music Centre on the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, was sceptical, but willing to try.
Well Kanpai, and our charming host, Lee Yee Lim, take a bow. The evening proved to be enlightening and entertaining, and it certainly opened our eyes to what can be done with simple ingredients prepared properly with artistry, ingenuity and skill. Some of the presentation was stunning and the fusion of flavour stunning.
Kanpai, for those who know Edinburgh, is situated near the Usher Hall, the city’s leading concert hall, and in the shadow of the popular Royal Lyceum Theatre. Shrewd move, arts lovers can also be discerning diners.
The restaurant name literally means bottoms up in Japanese. Pity, because that’s crude while Kanpai is class. It has only been open since last August but is already an award-winner.
It won the Newcomer of the Year category in the Scottish Restaurant Awards and Kanpai has quickly become regarded as one of the finest traditional Japanese restaurants in Scotland’s Capital. It is easy to see why.
The decor is minimalist, but don’t let that put you off. The welcome is sincere and the restaurant is spotless.
Undoubtedly, going into the gastronomic unknown – particularly when you are having to pay handsomely for the privilege – is daunting.
Our hostess, Malaysian-born Lee Yee Lim, put us at ease, talking us through the beautifully bound and illustrated menu, asking questions about our likes and dislikes, and suggesting what might be most appropriate.
She even consulted the chef to ensure we were not disappointed. That’s customer service.
What’s more, Ms Lim even delivered little surprises like the condiments of pickled ginger (to aid digestion and cleanse the palate) and wasabi, a piquant paste made from the grated root of a plant. It makes your eyes water so watch how much you take.
Diners at laid-back Kanpai can choose to sit at the intimate sushi bar or the open kitchen counter where they can watch their food being prepared.
We preferred a seat in the busy dining-room. Within minutes or ordering, we were eating, that’s the nature of sushi.
So, what did we savour? A tasty twist to Wakame seaweed salad with sesame was recommended. It had a hint of red chilli which kick-started the night perfectly. By the way, it is not dried but moist.
Pan fried vegetable and chicken dumplings were packed with flavour and the seared tuna with homemade dressing on a bed of finely sliced cucumber was heavenly.
John professes not to like eating anything which wriggles in the sea, his words not mine, but the powers of persuasion from Ms Lim worked.
Takoyaki octopus fish cake exploded in our mouths as we bit into the surprisingly soft centre. One disappointment was the fried mixed vegetable tempura – containing carrots, onions and beans - which was bland until dipped in soya sauce.
However, the grilled aubergine in sweet sauce more than made up for it.
The perfectly cooked, medium rare, sirloin steak, finished at the table on an aeromatic Poye leaf, was exquisite but the Teriyaki salmon came nowhere near in terms of taste.
Spicy raw tuna came next along with grilled eel. John had tried eel before and baulked until I had a mouthful. The mackerel-type flavour was both a surprise and delight to the palate.
Kanpai chefs use Scottish produce, freshly prepared and imaginatively presented. Their Dragon Roll – avocado, cucumber and king prawn – is one of the most popular picks on the menu. It is visually stunning.
The Rainbow Roll – raw tuna, salmon, cucumber and avocado – is also popular. Sadly, after such a big build up (they are also mentioned on various internet reviews) both disappointed, possibly because of the avocado.
The dishes were, however, enlivened by a splash of soy and, of course, a piece of picked ginger.
King prawn seemed popular with other diners and the raw scallops were, visually, stunning, sitting on a slice of lemon on a bed of crushed ice decorated with straw, lettuce and radish strands.
There is no doubt that as word spreads then more will find their way to Kanpai and possibly have their eyes, and taste buds, well and truly opened.

HEWAT'S DESERVE SUCCESS

Hewat’s Restaurant
19-21b Causewayside
Edinburgh EH9 1QF
0131 466 6660
queries@hewatsrestaurant.co.uk
www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday 12-2
Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 6pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday: 6pm to 10pm.

Richard Hewat has cooked for some demanding people during his culinary career. For example, Royalty, and the best-known 007, Edinburgh-born Sean Connery.
And, he was also head chef at the RBC world headquarters in Edinburgh producing five-star food during the watch of Fred Goodwin.
Attention to detail is therefore second nature. If shows in his planning and his customer service.
Take my situation. I rang up seeking a booking. We discussed diet, I’m lactose intolerant and Kirsty has a gluten allergy.
On arrival, we were both handed separate menus with a varied choice of dishes. We were, quite simply, made to feel welcome not, as sometimes happens, a nuisance.
This restaurant is a family affair. Richard’s wife Margaret is vastly experienced front-of-house, and it shows.
A warm welcome, followed by efficient but unfussy service, was a feature. Nothing was too much trouble for Margaret and her attentive staff.
The couple took the plunge and opened Hewat’s Restaruant eight years ago. It’s situated at Causewayside, ten minutes walk from Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile.
Therefore, life is just that little bit tougher.
A substantial section of Edinburgh University, including residences at Pollock Halls, is within comfortable walking distance. The busy Queen’s Hall, a popular concert venue, is not far away and surrounding the cosy restaurant, decorated by an eclectic mix of original paintings by named Scottish artists, are a host of flats, many inhabited by students, small hotels and guest houses.
A major insurance company is a stroll away as is a major library, but Richard and Margaret are off the main drag as Edinburgh’s concentration of hotels is on the other side of town.
Hewat’s, therefore, relies on repeat business, local PR and word-of-mouth. Quality and consistency in the food is of paramount importance.
Award-winning Richard, who led a team which won the Egon Roney Seafood Restaurant of the Year Award in a previous employment, knows exactly where his produce comes from.
The chef, who has also worked for major chains including Sheraton and Hilton, believes that is crucial to his operation which concentrates on a combination of classic French and Scottish cuisine.
So, what was there to choose from? Five starters were presented while we savoured home-made rolls fresh from the oven.
Wild mushroom, parsnip and thyme soup, smoked salmon with baby capers and lime, pigeon breast with puy lentil and shallots with red wine, grilled sardines with sun blushed tomatoes and basil or melon platter with orange and passion fruit syrup.
Kirsty selected the soup. It had a wonderful colour and was packed with flavour. My pigeon was eye-catching and interesting, particularly the use of the lentils.
The shallots added an extra dimension but tended to overpower the taste of the meat. However, it was a pleasant starter.
There were six mains on offer. Roast Barbary duck breast with port and redcurrant jus, wild mushroom, red onion and leek risotto with shavings of parmesan, charred vegetables and rocket salad, filet of coley and tomato and basil sauce with crushed new potatoes and wilted greens, blackened Cajun chicken with Thai curry dressing, new potatoes and stir fry peppers, charred sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beef with green peppercorn sauce, lyonnaise potatoes with fine beans (£5 supplement) or medley of sea bass, salmon and tiger prawns with light garlic fish nage, lobster mash with wild garlic.
Kirsty selected the filet of coley. The fish arrived on a bed of vegetables surrounded by roasted cherry tomatoes and looked wonderful. It was well-seasoned and beautifully cooked.
My duck was succulent and worked well apart from the red cabbage which, I felt, was too sweet. However, both dishes were well-received.
As to sweets, dietry considerations ruled here. Kirsty had four to pick from, poached fruits with berry compote, Tiramisu crème brulee with shortbread, chocolate mousse with candied orange of selection of speciality cheeses.
My choice was poached fruits with berry compote or baked banana with honey roasted fig.
Kirsty plumped for chocolate mousse and the candied orange was an added bonus. It was wonderful.
My baked banana was a triumph for creativity.
The 66-seat restaurant has a character of its own. Some of the seats were procured from a former local church. You felt you were sitting in a family pew.
Hewat’s has a loyal customer base and it is easy to see why. The hard-working couple deserve that for their industry.
Give Hewat’s a try. The midweek dinner menu costs £18.95 for two courses or £22.95 for three, quality food at a sensible price. You’ll not be disappointed and the responses from the tables around us on the night was really positive.
By the way, they also take bookings for groups only on days they are normally closed, that’s customer service.