LIVINGSTON'S: A TESTAMENT TO QUALITY

LIVINGSTON’S
52 High Street
Linlithgow
01506 846565
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk
Open: Tuesday to Saturday (inclusive): 12-2pm: 6-9pm
Michelin Listed
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk

THE ancient town of Linlithgow, 20 miles from Edinburgh, is a tourist destination with its outstanding palace, the birthplace of James V and Mary, Queen of Scots.
We hadn’t been there for some time and, luckily, the rain had stopped allowing us to stroll along the loch and along the bustling High Street to the the family-owned and Michelin-listed Livingston’s Restaurant.
It sits in the shadow of the palace and is a hidden gem. Derek Livingston and his two chefs pay great attention to detail. He even checked my previous reviews to see what I liked and he popped out to buy soya milk just in case I required some.
He took over, after a spell in the kitchen, from his father and mother, Ronald and Christine, who started their restaurant in the early 1990s.
A testimony to their success is a regular clientele from a wide area and this restaurant has thrived in a highly-competitive market despite not having a frontage on the main street.
Livingston's is tucked away down a close. The secluded situation, with a view onto a garden, adds to its attraction.
So does its policy of using local producers. Take the amushe bouche. Moist haggis, wonderfully seasoned, sitting on a bed of blitzed turnip with a gossamer thin potato slice balanced delicately on top. Source? A local farmer from a village two miles away.
Tables in the original stone building, which has an extension into the garden, are candle-lit. The rich red furnishings add to the ambience, but there is nothing fussy about Livingston’s. It is a place where you can enjoy the food and chill out.
The menu has four choices for starters, mains and desserts. Ample, in my opinion, and, if you have diet or allergy concerns, then don’t worry, Derek and his team are well-versed in producing an alternative.
So, what was on offer? Summer vegetable broth, pan seared scallops, Stornoway black pudding beignet, spiced cauliflower puree and apple pickle, ballontine of rabbit saddle, purple carrot ribbons, carrot cones, carrot gel and petit leaves or warm fillet of West Coast mackerel, smoked aubergine tapenade, basil puree, lentil and radish dressing.
All mouth-watering, but I homed in on pan seared scallops. They were beautifully presented and cooked, and the black pudding was devine.
On to mains. Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, daube croquette, pomme rosti, celeriac and mustard puree, silverskin onions and watercress, roast saddle of Perthshire lamb, braised shoulder, fondant potato, pea puree, pea salsa verde, sous vide tail of monkfish, wam salad of samphine and seasonal greens, red wine poached salsify or roast breast of poussin, confit leg of tortellini, ficasse of mushroom, pancetta and baby leek and Albufera sauce.
Difficult choice. However, Pam’s Aberdeen Angus was superb and the accompanying attractions, particularly the silverskin onions, worked perfectly.
The contrast in my lamb selection was interesting. Both were beautifully cooked and the tasted sublime, but the saddle was perfection, moist and sweet and the taste lingered.
The pre-pudding was an unexpected delight. Carrot cake which melted in the mouth. Now, on to the puddings. Once again, four choices were available, Cranachan, Turkish delight, strawberries and cream or a selection of Scottish cheeses with homemade oatcakes and chutney.
Pam plumped for strawberries and cream. Actually, it was much, much more than that. The strawberry brulee, basil gel, macerated strawberries and fromage blanc ice cream was strikingly served with dainty meringues. She was disappointed with the taste. Conversly, I had a spoonfull and loved it. We both felt the accompanying meringues were spongy.
My Turkish delight comprised chocolate ganache, Turkish jelly, rose sorbet and candied pistachio. The rose sorbet was tart and I felt the rich chocolate overpowered the rest of the dish.
By that time, night had drawn in and the full effect of the candle-lit atmosphere of the restaurant – which can take 60 covers - became fully apparent.
Coffee was served (with sugar cubes and a cute little box with sweetners inside, lovely touch) with Mrs Livingston’s home-made tablet, one piece normal and the other coconut. It was exquisite and an ideal finishing touch.
Livingston’s deserve praise and it’s no wonder that they have won a number of accolades including a Macallan Out of Town Restaurant Award, two AA rosettes, plus a listing in the respected Michelin Guide.
The restaurant, and Linlithgow, are well-worth a visit. Make no mistake, Derek will look after you.

HAMILTON'S: IDEALLY SITUATED

Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen
16-18 Hamilton Place
Edinburgh
EH3 5AU
0131 226 4199
www.hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk
Open seven days: 9am to 1am

Hamilton’s was launched three years ago. The object was to give the Stockbridge locals a home from home and others a destination where the service was friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the confidence that only fair-trade and organic suppliers were used in dishes, charged at a reasonable price.
It is situated in Edinburgh’s affluent Stockbridge district which was originally an outlying village incorporated into the Capital city in the 19th century.
Stockbridge is my favourite part of Scotland’s Capital city and still has a village feel with quality local shops – interspersed with a number of charity stores - including an up-market butcher shop, where you can buy game birds (no jokes please), plus a superb cheese shop (the smell is exquisite for some nauseating for others), plus a number of popular restaurants and bars.
It also boasts the Water of Leith, with a much-used walkway, running through it with Hamilton’s ideally positioned. The establishment is branded as an all-purpose venue. The web-site blurb reads: “Hamilton’s is a place where mothers meet after dropping the kids off at school, business meetings roll into lunch and locals meet with destination diners for food, wine, cocktails and everything else in between. Hamilton’s seem to have something to offer everyone at different times of the day.”
And, let’s not overlook this point, it is busy. The management accommodated us on a Saturday night, an evening when they also had a 30th birthday party and the bar was packed, so was the restaurant.
We were privileged to sit at a table at the front, overlooking the Water of Leith walkway, however that backfired. Where do drinkers at the bar go for a cigarette? Immediately in front of where we were sitting. OK we didn’t get the fumes, but we were gawked at by punters having a drag.
We couldn’t fault the service. It was slick despite it being a full-house. And the extensive menu undoubtedly provided something for everybody.
It was inventive as well as having tried and tested. The small dishes provided seven choices including Hamilton’s own fish cakes with spring onion and mixed leaf salad and aioli, asparagus and watercress soup as well as crispy chicken with sweet chilli dipping sauce or pan fried chorizo with sherry, lemon, chilli and tomatoes.
There was also the alternative of four to share including nachos and antipasti.
Pam picked roast red pepper and chorizo toasts. It was tasty but pricy at £5.95 and my steamed mussels with white wine and garlic – I opted out of the cream – was an ample portion. The sauce, however, lacked real bite.
On to the mains. There were 11 large dishes on offer including a Scottish beef burger, a vegetarian option of roast red pepper and saffron risotto or seared yellow fin tuna with charred summer vegetable salad and basil pesto.
Pam selected organic chicken breast with black pudding, Jersey Royal potatoes, fresh lemon, sun blush tomato and watercress, cost £11.95.
My pick? I went for fish again, marinated sea bass with roast sweet potato, baby spinach and red pepper sauce. Charge £11.95.
We were advised to go for sides – an extra charge. Cauliflower cheese was £3.95 and charred local asparagus came in at £2.95.
And the end-product? The chicken, which came with the skin on, was moist but the black pudding greasy and the Jersey Royals were devoid of much taste. The cheese sauce on the cauliflower was tasty but did not appear to have impregnated the vegetable. Verdict: disappointing.
My sea bass arrived perched on top of the roast sweet potato – lovely taste and good mix – and spinach, but the red pepper sauce, apart from being eye-catching, also had a fine flavour. Nothing overpowered the delicate flavour of the fish. The asparagus – recommended – was ideal as an accompaniment.
We opted out of the various sweet options and left, but not before visiting the toilets. It is difficult to keep on top of things on a busy Saturday, but one has to take account of paying guests and the toilets were not as one would have liked for this type of establishment.
Also, cleanliness in the dining room must be of paramount importance. My table top was sticky and so was the one opposite. (Yes, I did inspect it. Sad, but the things you have to do as a reviewer).
You don’t expect that in what is being marketed as an up-market establishment.
My overall impression is that Hamilton’s is trying to cover all bases. The major appeal, in my view, is for the younger set with a disposable income. One look at the web site - their home page has blaring music – indicates that. It is packed with pictures of young people enjoying themselves, plus an offer or two.
I’ve got a family of three, the youngest one is nearly 21, and a business student at a local university. He might appreciate the hustle and bustle, but discerning diners, I believe, like a little more. Talking, an integral part of going out for a meal, was a tad difficult because of the noise.

MOSAICA: A HIDDEN GEM

Mosaica
Unit COO5
The Chocolate Factory
Clarendon Road
Wood Green
London N22 6XJ
Open: Thuesday to Friday noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Saturday: 7pm to 10pm
Sunday: 1pm to 4pm
020 8889 2400
www.mosaicarestaurants.com

Mosaica has been around for over 10 years, where have you been? That’s the opening line on the web page.
Answer: trying to find the restaurant. It’s not easy. The high fence, seemingly locked gates and ten-foot high brick walls fooled us.
So did the fact that you have to walk past a huge sign displaying a raft of companies and then speak to a receptionist.
That said, it was 100 per cent worth the navigational angst. I have one word to describe this: magnificent.
Sure, that is a huge compliment but head chef Steve Goode and his team, who took over the highly-rated restaurant last December have a gem here.
One of their mantras is: You’re only as good as your last meal. We’ll I’ll be back as my first was thoroughly enjoyable.
The laid-back atmosphere, decor – loved the eclectic mix of furniture and the candle grease dripping down the walls – and the slick service (including quality explanations of the dish and ingredients and the flexibility for dietary needs) were admirable.
Their web site mirrors the style in the restaurant created in the basement of a former chocolate factory. I quote: “Whether you prefer jeans or the little black number, you'll feel right at home in our laid back New York loft shabby chic.” Spot on, the mix on the night we dined was interesting.
Their food is sourced from London’s two world-famous markets, Smithfield and Billingsgate.
Another quote: “The meats in particular almost have to come with a birth certificate, we have to know the parents names. The fish is still in rigor mortis stage when picked up at 5am from E London.”
So, to the food, once cooked. The freshly baked bread – served with olive oil dip and balsamic – was a hint of what was to come. Individual is the best word to describe it.
The house style is British seasonal produce with hints of European eccentricities and the menu is changed daily.
Sath plumped, after much debate, for foie gras with red onion chutney, cornichons and toast. My pick was oak smoked Scottish salmon with pickles and black pepper.
Mouth-watering other options included parma ham with feta and lavender infused honey, char grilled asparagus with parmy (Parmaison) and leaves, bufala caprase salad, roasted Portobello mushroom with melted blue cheese or grilled Brixham sardines with gremolata.
Verdict: foie gras was sublime, rich and packed with flavour. Sath said he’d never tasted better. I had a slice and I’ll never eat supermarket foie gras again.
I’m Scottish and like salmon. The portion was ample and the pickles added extra bite. A good dish.
On to the main. Salt March lamb rump was Sath’s selection. It came with parsley mash and greens.
I plumped for rare old Gloucester ribeye with Kenyans (green beans). It was supposed to come with garlic mash but the mash has a dairy input. They instantly suggested sauté potatoes.
We could have tried Cajun loch salmon with truffle crushed potatoes and tenderstem, sword fish with chervil and butterbean broth, 21-hour roast pork bells with mustard mash and red cabbage, goats cheese, lemon and pine nut risotto, grilled seabass with fettuccine and cockles buerre noisette or Reg Johnston’s chicken with chorizo potatoes and wilted spinach. Innivative, interesting and enterprising.
We didn’t have room for pudding but the selection included English cheeses, Leagrams yoghurt with fresh mango, orange, honey and pistachio,
profiteroles with Belgian chocolate sauce, sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and ice cream plate (banana, deluche de leche and hazelnut).
Tempting yes but I have to watch my waist line. Overall, this could not be faulted apart from the jus with the rib eye. In my opinion, it didn’t quite complement the meat but both the lamb and beef were cooked beautifully.
The Mosaica also has a decent selection of real ales and foreign lagers as well as an extensive wine list.
They do take-away at lunchtime as well as sit-in. It’s busy so book but it is well worth a visit.