Monday, August 29, 2011

LIVINGSTON'S: A TESTAMENT TO QUALITY


LIVINGSTON’S
52 High Street
Linlithgow
01506 846565
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk
Open: Tuesday to Saturday (inclusive): 12-2pm: 6-9pm
Michelin Listed
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk

THE ancient town of Linlithgow, 20 miles from Edinburgh, is a tourist destination with its outstanding palace, the birthplace of James V and Mary, Queen of Scots.
We hadn’t been there for some time and, luckily, the rain had stopped allowing us to stroll along the loch and along the bustling High Street to the the family-owned and Michelin-listed Livingston’s Restaurant.
It sits in the shadow of the palace and is a hidden gem. Derek Livingston and his two chefs pay great attention to detail. He even checked my previous reviews to see what I liked and he popped out to buy soya milk just in case I required some.
He took over, after a spell in the kitchen, from his father and mother, Ronald and Christine, who started their restaurant in the early 1990s.
A testimony to their success is a regular clientele from a wide area and this restaurant has thrived in a highly-competitive market despite not having a frontage on the main street.
Livingston's is tucked away down a close. The secluded situation, with a view onto a garden, adds to its attraction.
So does its policy of using local producers. Take the amushe bouche. Moist haggis, wonderfully seasoned, sitting on a bed of blitzed turnip with a gossamer thin potato slice balanced delicately on top. Source? A local farmer from a village two miles away.
Tables in the original stone building, which has an extension into the garden, are candle-lit. The rich red furnishings add to the ambience, but there is nothing fussy about Livingston’s. It is a place where you can enjoy the food and chill out.
The menu has four choices for starters, mains and desserts. Ample, in my opinion, and, if you have diet or allergy concerns, then don’t worry, Derek and his team are well-versed in producing an alternative.
So, what was on offer? Summer vegetable broth, pan seared scallops, Stornoway black pudding beignet, spiced cauliflower puree and apple pickle, ballontine of rabbit saddle, purple carrot ribbons, carrot cones, carrot gel and petit leaves or warm fillet of West Coast mackerel, smoked aubergine tapenade, basil puree, lentil and radish dressing.
All mouth-watering, but I homed in on pan seared scallops. They were beautifully presented and cooked, and the black pudding was devine.
On to mains. Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, daube croquette, pomme rosti, celeriac and mustard puree, silverskin onions and watercress, roast saddle of Perthshire lamb, braised shoulder, fondant potato, pea puree, pea salsa verde, sous vide tail of monkfish, wam salad of samphine and seasonal greens, red wine poached salsify or roast breast of poussin, confit leg of tortellini, ficasse of mushroom, pancetta and baby leek and Albufera sauce.
Difficult choice. However, Pam’s Aberdeen Angus was superb and the accompanying attractions, particularly the silverskin onions, worked perfectly.
The contrast in my lamb selection was interesting. Both were beautifully cooked and the tasted sublime, but the saddle was perfection, moist and sweet and the taste lingered.
The pre-pudding was an unexpected delight. Carrot cake which melted in the mouth. Now, on to the puddings. Once again, four choices were available, Cranachan, Turkish delight, strawberries and cream or a selection of Scottish cheeses with homemade oatcakes and chutney.
Pam plumped for strawberries and cream. Actually, it was much, much more than that. The strawberry brulee, basil gel, macerated strawberries and fromage blanc ice cream was strikingly served with dainty meringues. She was disappointed with the taste. Conversly, I had a spoonfull and loved it. We both felt the accompanying meringues were spongy.
My Turkish delight comprised chocolate ganache, Turkish jelly, rose sorbet and candied pistachio. The rose sorbet was tart and I felt the rich chocolate overpowered the rest of the dish.
By that time, night had drawn in and the full effect of the candle-lit atmosphere of the restaurant – which can take 60 covers - became fully apparent.
Coffee was served (with sugar cubes and a cute little box with sweetners inside, lovely touch) with Mrs Livingston’s home-made tablet, one piece normal and the other coconut. It was exquisite and an ideal finishing touch.
Livingston’s deserve praise and it’s no wonder that they have won a number of accolades including a Macallan Out of Town Restaurant Award, two AA rosettes, plus a listing in the respected Michelin Guide.
The restaurant, and Linlithgow, are well-worth a visit. Make no mistake, Derek will look after you.

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