Friday, April 13, 2012
HEWAT'S DESERVE SUCCESS
Hewat’s Restaurant
19-21b Causewayside
Edinburgh EH9 1QF
0131 466 6660
queries@hewatsrestaurant.co.uk
www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday 12-2
Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 6pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday: 6pm to 10pm.
Richard Hewat has cooked for some demanding people during his culinary career. For example, Royalty, and the best-known 007, Edinburgh-born Sean Connery.
And, he was also head chef at the RBC world headquarters in Edinburgh producing five-star food during the watch of Fred Goodwin.
Attention to detail is therefore second nature. If shows in his planning and his customer service.
Take my situation. I rang up seeking a booking. We discussed diet, I’m lactose intolerant and Kirsty has a gluten allergy.
On arrival, we were both handed separate menus with a varied choice of dishes. We were, quite simply, made to feel welcome not, as sometimes happens, a nuisance.
This restaurant is a family affair. Richard’s wife Margaret is vastly experienced front-of-house, and it shows.
A warm welcome, followed by efficient but unfussy service, was a feature. Nothing was too much trouble for Margaret and her attentive staff.
The couple took the plunge and opened Hewat’s Restaruant eight years ago. It’s situated at Causewayside, ten minutes walk from Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile.
Therefore, life is just that little bit tougher.
A substantial section of Edinburgh University, including residences at Pollock Halls, is within comfortable walking distance. The busy Queen’s Hall, a popular concert venue, is not far away and surrounding the cosy restaurant, decorated by an eclectic mix of original paintings by named Scottish artists, are a host of flats, many inhabited by students, small hotels and guest houses.
A major insurance company is a stroll away as is a major library, but Richard and Margaret are off the main drag as Edinburgh’s concentration of hotels is on the other side of town.
Hewat’s, therefore, relies on repeat business, local PR and word-of-mouth. Quality and consistency in the food is of paramount importance.
Award-winning Richard, who led a team which won the Egon Roney Seafood Restaurant of the Year Award in a previous employment, knows exactly where his produce comes from.
The chef, who has also worked for major chains including Sheraton and Hilton, believes that is crucial to his operation which concentrates on a combination of classic French and Scottish cuisine.
So, what was there to choose from? Five starters were presented while we savoured home-made rolls fresh from the oven.
Wild mushroom, parsnip and thyme soup, smoked salmon with baby capers and lime, pigeon breast with puy lentil and shallots with red wine, grilled sardines with sun blushed tomatoes and basil or melon platter with orange and passion fruit syrup.
Kirsty selected the soup. It had a wonderful colour and was packed with flavour. My pigeon was eye-catching and interesting, particularly the use of the lentils.
The shallots added an extra dimension but tended to overpower the taste of the meat. However, it was a pleasant starter.
There were six mains on offer. Roast Barbary duck breast with port and redcurrant jus, wild mushroom, red onion and leek risotto with shavings of parmesan, charred vegetables and rocket salad, filet of coley and tomato and basil sauce with crushed new potatoes and wilted greens, blackened Cajun chicken with Thai curry dressing, new potatoes and stir fry peppers, charred sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beef with green peppercorn sauce, lyonnaise potatoes with fine beans (£5 supplement) or medley of sea bass, salmon and tiger prawns with light garlic fish nage, lobster mash with wild garlic.
Kirsty selected the filet of coley. The fish arrived on a bed of vegetables surrounded by roasted cherry tomatoes and looked wonderful. It was well-seasoned and beautifully cooked.
My duck was succulent and worked well apart from the red cabbage which, I felt, was too sweet. However, both dishes were well-received.
As to sweets, dietry considerations ruled here. Kirsty had four to pick from, poached fruits with berry compote, Tiramisu crème brulee with shortbread, chocolate mousse with candied orange of selection of speciality cheeses.
My choice was poached fruits with berry compote or baked banana with honey roasted fig.
Kirsty plumped for chocolate mousse and the candied orange was an added bonus. It was wonderful.
My baked banana was a triumph for creativity.
The 66-seat restaurant has a character of its own. Some of the seats were procured from a former local church. You felt you were sitting in a family pew.
Hewat’s has a loyal customer base and it is easy to see why. The hard-working couple deserve that for their industry.
Give Hewat’s a try. The midweek dinner menu costs £18.95 for two courses or £22.95 for three, quality food at a sensible price. You’ll not be disappointed and the responses from the tables around us on the night was really positive.
By the way, they also take bookings for groups only on days they are normally closed, that’s customer service.
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