PERFECTIONIST PAUL HOMES IN FOR SUCCESS

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street Edinburgh EH3 5AH www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday: 12-2 Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday: 6.30-23.30 0131 226 3500 Stockbridge is one of my favourite parts of Edinburgh. It still retains that homely, village feel, but was incorporated into Edinburgh in the 19th century and it hugs the banks of the Water of Leith as it trundles down to the River Forth. It is little wonder that chef Paul Gunning (pictured) decided to plump for a basement in the trendy, middle-class area to open a new restaurant. And that leap of faith five months ago appears to be paying off. Purslane – named after a small family of succulent leaves, all but one of which is found in the British isles - was packed on the midweek night we were there. That is a testament to Paul’s undoubted craft and artistic flair. His dishes are eye-catching as well as mouth-watering. This cosy restaurant is well worth visiting and not just for the charming location, tucked in among an eclectic mix of sometimes quirky shops – and a few charity outlets -plus a plethora of welcoming restaurants and pubs. Competition is tough. Historic Stockbridge, incidentally, is named after the wooden bridge which used to straddle the nearby river. Painter Henry Raeburn used to live nearby and it has a rich sporting history. The first rugby international between Scotland and England was held at Raeburn Place while, across the road, The Grange Club is the home of Scottish cricket. Indeed, the ground hosted games during the 1999 Cricket World Cup. On a daily basis, Stockbridge is home to some of the most desirable dwellings in the city and it also boasts some distinctive food shops. A game butcher, a wonderful fishmonger, local bread shops are features and the area’s strong association with food includes a distinctive cheese shop. It is no surprise therefore that Paul, who has worked in five star hotels and two to three starred Michelin restaurants, uses local produce, including cheese from the cheese shop, I J Mellis, in his distinctive and constantly evolving offering. Duncan and I spent some time exploring the small but tempting menu before selecting. My dietary problem (lactose intolerant) was not a problem. There are five choices for starter. Chicken liver parfait with redcurrant jelly and melba toast, quail roulade with a pancetta and artichoke salad and a bacon cream, salmon roulette with fennel and tomato compote and whisky cured salmon, tuna tartar with caramelised olive puree and asparagus and potato salad with truffle vinaigrette. Hard choice. Duncan plumped for quail roulade. It was beautifully presented but lacked a distinctive taste. My dark coloured tuna tartar, topped with a quail egg, looked fantastic and tasted divine. The sharpness of the flavour made it one of the more memorable starters I’ve had in ages. On to the main. Once again, five possible picks. Pork loin with sweet potato rosti, braised chicory and caramelised apple, spice encrusted lamb pump with Bombay potatoes, spinach puree and curry dressing, pave of cod wrapped in Parma ham with glazed baby vegetables and a potato and ox tail gateau, sea bream with socca chips, Mediterranean vegetables and caponata dressing and vegetable gateaux with spinach puree and spring vegetables. Duncan loves lamb, indeed he used to be an engineer on board ship and transferred lamb regularly from the other side of the world back to Britain. He was enthused by the Paul’s creation. Cooked perfectly pink, retaining the moisture and with a tasty crust, and boasting a subtle curry twist, the dish was sublime. The spinach puree provoked a lively debate as well as showing off the dish to the full. My cod, with a touch of parsley, which worked wonderfully well, lifting the taste of the soft fish, plus the al dente green vegetables, made this a fine dish. We did, however, have room for sweet. Duncan is a keen gardener and makes his own fruit-based desserts from his fruit trees so he had to try one of Paul’s creations. He was bowled over by the roast plum with a rum and Muscavado sauce and vanilla ice cream. So much so, that I was offered only a tiny sample. My roasted apple and thyme sauce was interesting but not in the same league as Duncan’s. Other possible were white chocolate mousse with dark chocolate sauce and raspberry coulis, orange and Cointreau crème brulee, pear mille feuille with crème Chantilly and caramelised almonds or cheese from Mr Mellis’ round the corner. We felt at home at homely Purslane where two courses cost £21.95 and three a value £25.95. The accommodating waiter, recognising that we were keen to try something different, recommended a Romanian pinot noir. Wonderful advice. It was packed with red fruits and spice. Medium-bodied with a refreshing taste. I’m off to find a bottle of Calusari in my local wine shop.

SUCHI SPECTACULAR AT AWARD-WINNING KANPAI

STUNNING: food artistry at Kanpai

Kanpai
8-10 Grindlay Street,
Edinburgh
EH3 9AS
www.kanpaisushi.co.uk
Tuesday to Sunday: noon to 2.30pm; 5-10.30pm
0131 228 1602

OPINIONS vary when you mention you mention you are going to a Japanese restaurant. Pre-conceptions are hard to shift.
Some people would relish the experience, others would walk the other way, but more and more people are warming to sushi.
Healthy eating is certainly a draw. The main ingredients of raw fish and rice are naturally low in fat, high in protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.
And the dishes are colourful.
Sushi is traditionally eaten for celebrations and it first developed in South-East Asia and spread to China and then Japan.
The word means sour tasting and the first mention in the West appeared in the late 1800s.
Western palates have seen an adaption with rolls being introduced along with non-traditional mayonnaise, avocado and even cream cheese.
And the advent of sushi bars at main stations and airports, and in the centre of major cities, plus major chains like M&S stocking trays in their retail outlets, has accelerated the trend.
I’m a convert and a regular buyer when I travel domestically, preferring healthy to stodge. John, my companion, a leading promoter at the Acoustic Music Centre on the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, was sceptical, but willing to try.
Well Kanpai, and our charming host, Lee Yee Lim, take a bow. The evening proved to be enlightening and entertaining, and it certainly opened our eyes to what can be done with simple ingredients prepared properly with artistry, ingenuity and skill. Some of the presentation was stunning and the fusion of flavour stunning.
Kanpai, for those who know Edinburgh, is situated near the Usher Hall, the city’s leading concert hall, and in the shadow of the popular Royal Lyceum Theatre. Shrewd move, arts lovers can also be discerning diners.
The restaurant name literally means bottoms up in Japanese. Pity, because that’s crude while Kanpai is class. It has only been open since last August but is already an award-winner.
It won the Newcomer of the Year category in the Scottish Restaurant Awards and Kanpai has quickly become regarded as one of the finest traditional Japanese restaurants in Scotland’s Capital. It is easy to see why.
The decor is minimalist, but don’t let that put you off. The welcome is sincere and the restaurant is spotless.
Undoubtedly, going into the gastronomic unknown – particularly when you are having to pay handsomely for the privilege – is daunting.
Our hostess, Malaysian-born Lee Yee Lim, put us at ease, talking us through the beautifully bound and illustrated menu, asking questions about our likes and dislikes, and suggesting what might be most appropriate.
She even consulted the chef to ensure we were not disappointed. That’s customer service.
What’s more, Ms Lim even delivered little surprises like the condiments of pickled ginger (to aid digestion and cleanse the palate) and wasabi, a piquant paste made from the grated root of a plant. It makes your eyes water so watch how much you take.
Diners at laid-back Kanpai can choose to sit at the intimate sushi bar or the open kitchen counter where they can watch their food being prepared.
We preferred a seat in the busy dining-room. Within minutes or ordering, we were eating, that’s the nature of sushi.
So, what did we savour? A tasty twist to Wakame seaweed salad with sesame was recommended. It had a hint of red chilli which kick-started the night perfectly. By the way, it is not dried but moist.
Pan fried vegetable and chicken dumplings were packed with flavour and the seared tuna with homemade dressing on a bed of finely sliced cucumber was heavenly.
John professes not to like eating anything which wriggles in the sea, his words not mine, but the powers of persuasion from Ms Lim worked.
Takoyaki octopus fish cake exploded in our mouths as we bit into the surprisingly soft centre. One disappointment was the fried mixed vegetable tempura – containing carrots, onions and beans - which was bland until dipped in soya sauce.
However, the grilled aubergine in sweet sauce more than made up for it.
The perfectly cooked, medium rare, sirloin steak, finished at the table on an aeromatic Poye leaf, was exquisite but the Teriyaki salmon came nowhere near in terms of taste.
Spicy raw tuna came next along with grilled eel. John had tried eel before and baulked until I had a mouthful. The mackerel-type flavour was both a surprise and delight to the palate.
Kanpai chefs use Scottish produce, freshly prepared and imaginatively presented. Their Dragon Roll – avocado, cucumber and king prawn – is one of the most popular picks on the menu. It is visually stunning.
The Rainbow Roll – raw tuna, salmon, cucumber and avocado – is also popular. Sadly, after such a big build up (they are also mentioned on various internet reviews) both disappointed, possibly because of the avocado.
The dishes were, however, enlivened by a splash of soy and, of course, a piece of picked ginger.
King prawn seemed popular with other diners and the raw scallops were, visually, stunning, sitting on a slice of lemon on a bed of crushed ice decorated with straw, lettuce and radish strands.
There is no doubt that as word spreads then more will find their way to Kanpai and possibly have their eyes, and taste buds, well and truly opened.

HEWAT'S DESERVE SUCCESS

Hewat’s Restaurant
19-21b Causewayside
Edinburgh EH9 1QF
0131 466 6660
queries@hewatsrestaurant.co.uk
www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday 12-2
Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 6pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday: 6pm to 10pm.

Richard Hewat has cooked for some demanding people during his culinary career. For example, Royalty, and the best-known 007, Edinburgh-born Sean Connery.
And, he was also head chef at the RBC world headquarters in Edinburgh producing five-star food during the watch of Fred Goodwin.
Attention to detail is therefore second nature. If shows in his planning and his customer service.
Take my situation. I rang up seeking a booking. We discussed diet, I’m lactose intolerant and Kirsty has a gluten allergy.
On arrival, we were both handed separate menus with a varied choice of dishes. We were, quite simply, made to feel welcome not, as sometimes happens, a nuisance.
This restaurant is a family affair. Richard’s wife Margaret is vastly experienced front-of-house, and it shows.
A warm welcome, followed by efficient but unfussy service, was a feature. Nothing was too much trouble for Margaret and her attentive staff.
The couple took the plunge and opened Hewat’s Restaruant eight years ago. It’s situated at Causewayside, ten minutes walk from Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile.
Therefore, life is just that little bit tougher.
A substantial section of Edinburgh University, including residences at Pollock Halls, is within comfortable walking distance. The busy Queen’s Hall, a popular concert venue, is not far away and surrounding the cosy restaurant, decorated by an eclectic mix of original paintings by named Scottish artists, are a host of flats, many inhabited by students, small hotels and guest houses.
A major insurance company is a stroll away as is a major library, but Richard and Margaret are off the main drag as Edinburgh’s concentration of hotels is on the other side of town.
Hewat’s, therefore, relies on repeat business, local PR and word-of-mouth. Quality and consistency in the food is of paramount importance.
Award-winning Richard, who led a team which won the Egon Roney Seafood Restaurant of the Year Award in a previous employment, knows exactly where his produce comes from.
The chef, who has also worked for major chains including Sheraton and Hilton, believes that is crucial to his operation which concentrates on a combination of classic French and Scottish cuisine.
So, what was there to choose from? Five starters were presented while we savoured home-made rolls fresh from the oven.
Wild mushroom, parsnip and thyme soup, smoked salmon with baby capers and lime, pigeon breast with puy lentil and shallots with red wine, grilled sardines with sun blushed tomatoes and basil or melon platter with orange and passion fruit syrup.
Kirsty selected the soup. It had a wonderful colour and was packed with flavour. My pigeon was eye-catching and interesting, particularly the use of the lentils.
The shallots added an extra dimension but tended to overpower the taste of the meat. However, it was a pleasant starter.
There were six mains on offer. Roast Barbary duck breast with port and redcurrant jus, wild mushroom, red onion and leek risotto with shavings of parmesan, charred vegetables and rocket salad, filet of coley and tomato and basil sauce with crushed new potatoes and wilted greens, blackened Cajun chicken with Thai curry dressing, new potatoes and stir fry peppers, charred sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beef with green peppercorn sauce, lyonnaise potatoes with fine beans (£5 supplement) or medley of sea bass, salmon and tiger prawns with light garlic fish nage, lobster mash with wild garlic.
Kirsty selected the filet of coley. The fish arrived on a bed of vegetables surrounded by roasted cherry tomatoes and looked wonderful. It was well-seasoned and beautifully cooked.
My duck was succulent and worked well apart from the red cabbage which, I felt, was too sweet. However, both dishes were well-received.
As to sweets, dietry considerations ruled here. Kirsty had four to pick from, poached fruits with berry compote, Tiramisu crème brulee with shortbread, chocolate mousse with candied orange of selection of speciality cheeses.
My choice was poached fruits with berry compote or baked banana with honey roasted fig.
Kirsty plumped for chocolate mousse and the candied orange was an added bonus. It was wonderful.
My baked banana was a triumph for creativity.
The 66-seat restaurant has a character of its own. Some of the seats were procured from a former local church. You felt you were sitting in a family pew.
Hewat’s has a loyal customer base and it is easy to see why. The hard-working couple deserve that for their industry.
Give Hewat’s a try. The midweek dinner menu costs £18.95 for two courses or £22.95 for three, quality food at a sensible price. You’ll not be disappointed and the responses from the tables around us on the night was really positive.
By the way, they also take bookings for groups only on days they are normally closed, that’s customer service.

VIRGIN TAKE A BOW FOR YOUR BREAKFAST

Pix courtesy of Virgin Trains:
IT’S 7.05am and chirpy catering assistant Chris offers a warming cuppa and recites the breakfast menu on the Virgin train heading south from Edinburgh. It’s the full English for me, but there is a wide alternative selection and, within minutes, the toast and tea arrived.
Fruit juice followed and the main event was not far behind, delivered by silver service. The fried egg is perched on top of a hash brown and two rashers of bacon. Accompanying it is a dainty black pudding, full of flavour, by the way.
Alternatives included scrambled egg and cereal. It’s a perfect way to start the day as the darkness gives way to light as we race through the Scottish countryside at around 100mph. The view was uplifting, so was the breakfast experience and full marks to Virgin as the service and food was first class.
Food on the move appears one of the key promotional thrusts as train companies attempt to encourage potential business and leisure customers out of their cars and onto the tracks. Long-haul, they are also vying with airlines for your custom on the main routes to Manchester, Birmingham and London.
And Virgin tick the right boxes. After a meeting in Lancashire I jumped on a train to London from Manchester. The menu boasted two hot dishes plus sandwiches.
I plumped for ox cheek, a rather unusual offering. It came in a rich gravy with new potatoes. They were a soggy disappointment but the cheeks – not a popular choice according to the staff - had bags of flavour. The main course was followed by a choice of cheeses. I plumped for Austrian smoked and a mile cheddar served with an oatcake and bread. The cheese was moist and flavoursome and it was washed down by a fruity red.
Both meals were thoroughly enjoyable and the speed of service also allowed me to get some urgent work done without having to worry about catching a snack on arrival.
Because of a lactose intolerance (can’t take dairy) I asked the attendant if the sauce on the ox cheek was unsuitable because of milk or cream content. He didn’t know. I gambled. Companies offering food should brief staff as people with allergies deserve to be accommodated.
East Coast have also recently launched free food for first class passengers. Their full English breakfast menu also included tea, toast, and fruit juice. Sadly, the toast has been cold on the two occasions I’ve had breakfast, and the chef doesn’t do fried eggs, only scrambled. That’s a major blow, particularly for somebody with a lactose deficiency.
And the offering doesn’t, on the occasions I’ve travelled, match the standard of Virgin. I actually travelled back from London on the afternoon East Coast service. We were quickly offered a choice of sandwiches. Salmon and cucumber or egg accompanied by crisps and with the choice of a scone or cake or fruit.
The salmon was spot on and so was the cake. Later, biscuits were offered.
However, my wife travelled down to London on the following day from Edinburgh. She enjoyed the food but passengers joining after York were told: “We’ve run out.”
A first class service means just that. Passengers are paying a premium and the advertised service must be delivered. Incidentally, both Virgin and East Coast offer a free wi-fi service for First Class. East Coast have just upgraded theirs but it didn’t work for me for most of my journey. Most frustrating.
So, what about other operators. I regularly use the TransPennine Express from Edinburgh to Manchester. First class food on the go here is normally a packet of sandwiches. The bread is normally sliced and limp and the filling is a cheese slice and egg and cress plus a piece of normally extremely palatable cake.
The CrossCountry food I’ve sampled recently has been, to put it mildly, poor. My first experienced was a vegetable hot pot. Never again. I’ve subsequently been offered unappetising sandwiches (cheese slices again) which do little more than fill a hole.
So, take a bow Virgin. You are flavour of the month with me but East Coast coming up fast.

ITALIAN WITH ATMOSPHERE

Tricolos
36-37 Newborough
Scarborough
North Yorkshire
Y011 1NF
01723 367842
www.tricolos.co.uk
Open 7 nights a week
Mondays/Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday: 4pm till 9.30pm
Friday/Saturday: 4pm till 10.30pm
Sunday: 4pm till 9.30pm

Scarborough in high season. Seats in restaurants are in short supply and a quality Italian, on this occasion, was a necessity for a party of seven.
We asked around and up popped the name of Tricolos. We took a gamble and it paid off.
Everybody loved it and, so much in fact, that we’ll be back in the North Yorkshire resort next year and where are we most likely to visit? Yes, Tricolos.
Why? Because everybody was more than satisfied with the food and they all loved the atmosphere.
That’s not surprising given that the restaurant has been established since 1977. Then, Mike, Dennis and Ronnie Jaconelli converted their family ice cream parlour into a pizza restaurant.
They wanted to appeal to all ages and the formula is obviously as popular today as it was 34 years ago.
The restaurant is now under the directorship of John and Nicola Senior and Tricoilos serves innovative Italian food in a friendly setting.
Fitting for a seaside resort, and for an Italian restaurant, children are important.
The town centre restaurant boasts a little monkeys menu including, colouring sheets, crayons and a lolly exchange for a clean plate.
There are high chairs and a free baby food heating service to make mum and dad’s visit as hassle free as possible.
We had a mum-to-be in our party and she loved it along with the six other adults. So, what did we have?
A mixture of food. My steamed mussels with garlic, onions, white wine with homemade bread was spot on.
The bruschetta, shared by several, was complemented on. They were chargrilled topped with tomatoes and red onion marinaded in olive oil, garlic and fresh basil.
The garlic bread really was mouth-watering and well above average. In fact, everybody had a taste, it was that good.
And there were no complaints about the tomato and mozzarella salad.
As to mains, the classic calzone was huge. It was stuffed with ham, mushrooms, onions, spinach, mozzarella and topped with olive oil and Napoli sauce. Pete loved it.
My rare sirloin steak was perfect and it came with onion rings, sauté button mushrooms and roast tomatoes. Superb.
Others had lasagne di Bologna and the pene Toscana, chargrilled chicken and bacon, sauté mushrooms and garlic in a creamy tomato sauce topped with mozzarella cheese and finished in the oven, was packed with flavour.
No room for sweets here and we were ready for bed after a walk along the bay to our hotel.

ITIHAAS: QUALITY ON A PLATE

Itihaas
17-19 Eskbank Road
Dalkeith
Midlothian EH22 1HD
0131 663 9800

Open seven days: noon to 2pm and 5pm to 11.30pm
www.itihaasrestaurant.com

MATIN Kahn (pictured second left with his staff) is hands-on at Itihaas, and it shows. He greeted guests for lunch in his suit but admitted that he had been supervising in the kitchen at preparation from 10am.
The 80-cover restaurant is a family affair. His late father was inspirational and his two sons, Hujib and Habibur, are part of the 12-strong staff.
It’s a tight knit team at the beautifully presented, multi-award winning Bangladeshi restaurant.
And it is extremely popular. However, every customer is treated individually and it is no surprise to learn that Itihaas was Scotland’s best Bangladeshi restaurant in 2010 according to Spice Times.
Matin is also a recent recipient of five stars from TripAdvisor. The certificates are proudly displayed in the entrance.
His four chefs are Bangladeshi natives and the restaurant’s reputation brings customers from as far afield as Fife, the city of Edinburgh and all over the Lothians. This is a success story built on hard work and customer care.
All dishes are cooked to order. That was evident in my selection. The vegetarian pakora was served with a small salad. So often, salads are limp, but this was fresh and crisp.
Four sauces, all with their own sharp taste, including a tart but wonderful lime chutney, accompanied the dish.
On to the mains. Matin presented a selection to showcase what his chefs can do and we were not disappointed.
Each had a distinctive taste but none was overpowering. The chicken sag was moist and the spinach cooling.
The Bombay potato was memorable. The potato didn’t collapse on touch and the sauce was packed with flavour.
However, the undoubted star was the lamb Karat Gosh. It was beautifully cooked and the sweetness worked well with the sensational sauce.
Sometimes nan bread can be disappointing, but this was perfect and the pilau rice? Wonderfully aromatic and great to taste.
Itihaas source as much of their food as possible locally. Matin prides himself in only buying only the best meat and fish available.
The restaurant was busy but the slick staff never appear hassled. Situated prominently near the centre of the Midlothian town, is beautifully presented.
Flowers adorn tables covered by crisp linen tablecloths. The cutlery was spotless.
Itihaas enjoys a healthy take-away trade and also provides function catering but a visit to the restaurant is worthwhile.
Frankly, it would be hard to beat the value and my visit underlined what many had said to me. Itihaas is a gem.
Matin says: “When you come here you are in my home.” It was my first visit and I felt at ease. I’ll be back.

NO BONES TO PICK WITH CAFE FISH

Cafe Fish
15 North West Circus Place
Edinburgh
EH3 6SX
T: 0131 225 4431
Open: Seven days from 10am (for coffees and pastries)
From 12 noon with a lunch time and all-day menu
From 6pm for dinner (last orders at 9.30pm)

THE tiny cactus sitting next to the salt and pepper on each table was quirky and spoke volumes for the management of Cafe Fish. Simply, it summed up the attention to detail.
Everything has been thought out, from the decor to what appears on the plate. Cafe Fish can’t be faulted.
The restaurant was first established in Edinburgh’s now trendy old port at Leith in the spring of 2009. News of its quality spread fast and it quickly became a place to visit.
Richard Muir was so strong in his belief that the project would work near the centre of Scotland’s Capital that he took a leap of faith and moved to affluent Stockbridge.
His chosen location is in a former bank and the 1930’s interior features some stunning art deco work, including wonderful wood and marble floors.
An aluminium oyster bar is a prominent feature and it is complemented by aluminium tables. Some could consider this cold, but we felt it oozed class and cleanliness.
The move meant overheads increased, but so did the footfall exposure for this superb establishment. Cafe Fish now enjoys a prominent position near one of Edinburgh’s leading inner-city villages, Stockbridge.
The 65-cover restaurant (with an outside terrace for 18) is open all day, seven days, catering for a cross section, from mums with prams to discerning diners. It is busy, a testament to its quality.
Locally sourced fish and shellfish is key to this project. Even the bread is specially-selected, locally.
Speak to Mr Muir and he will tell you exactly who supplied your pan roasted sea bass or trout and the menu changes to suit what is available.
Cafe Fish is chic but not stuffy and part of that informality is having part of the kitchen on view to diners.
You can watch your meal being constructed before serving. Once again, attention to detail.
Head chef Stuart Lynch has been in charge since last August and his enthusiastic team are anxious to please.
What’s more, they have recruited a Japanese sushi trained and qualified chef, adding a welcome extra touch as well as providing another PR outlet.
Business is brisk. Weekends are heavily booked but weekday business is 70 per cent walk-up, underpinning the superb choice of location.
Cafe Fish is also in demand for groups of between 12 and 18, but don’t worry. The group area is discreetly tucked away at the back of the restaurant.
So, what about the food. It’s a deliciously small menu but with something for everybody, including vegetarian.
Pam opened with Cafe Fish cakes with citrus mayo. The delicate flavours made this a joy.
My selection was grilled queenies (Queen scallops) with Pernod and garlic butter. The dish was beautifully presented and the taste was divine. What’s more, the dressing on the salad was light and just right for the delicate scallops.
Alternatives were cured salmon, beetroot, orange and radish or wild duck terrine, dried plum compote and sour dough toast, Inverawe smoked salmon pate with sour dough toast, or pear, rocket, Gorgonzola, truffle with hazelnut dressing.
On to the main. Shetland blueshell mussels, coconut, chilli, coriander and chips or pan-seared sea bream, aubergine masala, coriander chutney and pilau rice were appealing.
So was the option of gnocci, wild mushroom, sage, onion with parmesan reggiano.
However, Pam picked the Cafe Fish and chips with crushed peas and tartare sauce. We were both curious to see what the chef could do with a well-loved, simple dish.
We’ll, it was worth waiting for. The fish was beautifully cooked, the batter superb, the crushed peas were exquisite and the chips were to die for. Yes, I stole one and the taste, with added sea salt, was superb.
My selection was roast North Atlantic cod, Toulouse sausage and cannellini beans cassoulet with garlic and parsley. The flavour flooded out, to coin a phrase, and the beans and sausage worked well with the cod.
There are other options. For example, Donegal oysters or 28-day aged Orkney rib-eye steak, with Cafe de Paris butter and chips, but they have a supplement.
The overall reaction. Super restaurant and undoubtedly worth a visit, particularly at £22 for two courses.
Oh, and Sunday lunch has just started (to December). Three courses £19.50 including a bottle of wine between two. I’ll be in the queue.
What’s more, and again attention to detail, if you are in a hurry then they are happy to fit you in, and Cafe Fish are delighted to cope with diners with allergies.