THE LIFEBOAT INN: A SHINING LIGHT

The Lifeboat Inn Thornham Norfolk PE36 6LT 01485 512236 www.lifeboatinnthornham.com RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 4/5 BEER SELECTION: 4/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 5/5 WEBSITE: 4/5 TOTAL: 26/30 THE chill wind whipped in from the North Norfolk coast and the prospect of a blazing log fire proved irresistible. So did the thought of a thirst-quenching pint after a brisk walk near Thornham, near Hunstanton. The Lifeboat Inn came into view and so we pushed the door handle and entered. The oak-beamed bar plus the warm welcome from the barman and locals was a bonus and Duncan and I ordered two pints of Greene King IPA and Pam a shandy. They went down a treat. So much so, that we decided to stay for dinner and we have no regrets. The extensive menu made us think but the turkey escalope Milanese and tagliatelle proved a draw for Duncan. He didn’t leave a crumb. Pam selected smoked haddock risotto with leeks, shaved parmesan and a poached egg on top. It was a winner, the tastes merging to produce a memorable dish. As it was a Sunday I selected traditional roast beef and Yorkshire pudding with vegetables. The meat was cooked to perfection and the sauce, wonderful. When we arrived back at our well-appointed, three-bed holiday cottage in Malthouse Court that I looked up The Lifeboat’s credentials. The promise a delicious meal from their extensive menu served in the history-soaked bar or conservatory or elegant, recently renovated restaurant. They were spot on. The other benefit is that their food is locally sourced whenever possible. Venison comes from Houghton Hall, oysters, lobsters and mussels from Brancaster, seafood from King's Lynn and crabs from Cromer. The specials menu changes daily so we can use the best products when in season and they also have an extensive children’s menu. The Lifeboat has a long-standing reputation, a point underlined by the couple sitting next to us with two dogs who had been coming to the establishment for around 25 years. And I almost forgot the bar. It is recognised for selling quality real ales such as Woodfords Wherry (a bit flowry for my taste), refreshing Adnams and the superby creamy Green King IPA. They also boast a guest pump which changes regularly, providing local suppliers with a chance to impress. We were certainly impressed with The Lighthouse.

CURVESIDE: AN ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE

42 Halford Street Leicester LE1 1TQ info@curvesidebistroleicester.co.uk 0116 261 9393 Monday to Friday: 7am to 3pm Tuesday to Saturday: 4.30pm to 11pm www.curvesidebistroleicester.co.uk RATING: FOOD: 3/5 AMBIANCE: 3/5 BEER SELECTION: 2/5 SERVICE: 4/5 TOILETS: 5/5 WEBSITE: 4/5 TOTAL: 21/30 FIRST night in a strange city and you are looking for somewhere to eat. You take a word-of-mouth recommendation rather than rely on a stab in the dark. The Curveside Bistro looked appealing, a bright, modern, family run establishment near one of the city’s newer hotels. We strode in. Sadly, there was nobody else in the well-appointed restaurant which didn’t really bother us, a part of seven. The menu was appealing with a range of intriguing starters. Pan fried scallops wrapped in pancetta and with a pea and mint sauce and flat mushrooms with dolce latte served with basil dressing were seized on by my colleagues. I stuck to basic tomato soup. It was distinctive and the remainder enjoyed their starters apart from one who was disappointed at the strength of the dolce latte. As to the mains, the roasted Mediterranean vegetables with mozzarella beef tomatoes served with tomato sauce appealed as did the chicken filled with brie wrapped in Parma ham served with honey lime and pine nut salad. Another colleague plumped for the shank of lamb with mash served with mint and caper sauce and several others selected steaks cooked to varying degrees. Sadly, the lamb was stringy, but the remainder, including the vegetarian, were satisfied. The service was attentive, the restaurant was spotless and the experience enjoyed.

GRAND DURBAR: TWO DECADES OF MEALS TO SUIT

Grand Durbar 294 Melton Street Leicester LE4 7PB 0116 266 6099 Open seven days (12-3; 6-11) RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 3/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 3/5 WEBSITE: 1/5 TOTAL: 19/30 THE blurb said this family run business had a fantastic reputation built up over two decades. That’s a huge claim and it had to be put to the test. I took the 15-minute taxi ride from the centre of Leicester was worth it. Grand Durbar sits on the city’s Golden Mile and first impressions are deceiving. It sits amongst a non-descript row of buildings and the small entrance hall to the 55-seat restaurant also includes a bar. The warmth of the welcome was encouraging. Again, the decor was not plush. However, the menu was extensive and the service slick. Any diet and allergy concerns were quickly alleviated. Meals were tailored to suit. My vegetarian vegetable cutlets were packed with flavour even if the accompanying side salad was basic. However, my Shashlick was special. It’s blend of onions, green peppers and tomato cooked in mossala spices was expeptional. So was the mixed vegetable rice. None of the vegetables, which included cauliflower, were mushy and all had a crunch. Durbar means audience chamber. We’ll, this chamber deserves a visit.

NEW DIMENSION AT DUCKS

Ducks Restaurant at Kilspindie House Hotel Main Street Aberlady East Lothian EH32 0RE 01875 870 682 www.ducks.co.uk RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 4/5 BEER SELECTION: 4/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 4.5 TOTAL: 25/30 Ducks at Kilspindie House has recently introduced a new head chef, Allesandro Grillo, and a new sous chef, Alan Contigiani, adding a new dimension. The Italian-born duo both have experience in Michelin-starred kitchens and Allesandro looked to his roots when he created a new menu for the atmospheric restaurant. Flavours from his native country are included in the menu which offers fine dining in an intimate, relaxed and unstuffy environment. Ducks is delightfully different, possibly taking a cue from proprietor Malcolm Duck whose unique front-of-house style, coupled with a quirky sense of humour, makes this a memorable place to dine. Feast your eyes on this note in the menu which said: “Here at Ducks we have a simple code when it comes to cuisine and hospitality, fresh, flavoursome, home-made food, a warm welcome and a relaxing, enjoyable stay. We source the finest quality East Lothian ingredients and produce everything in house. Chef Grillo is simply a joy to work with (so he tells me!).” Could Ducks live up to the billing? The restaurant’s position in the picturesque, laid-back village of Aberlady, within minutes of some of the finest sandy beaches in Scotland, and in the shadow of world-famous golf links, including Murifield, home of the 2013 Open Championship, gives it a head start. But Ducks is so much more than a comfy retreat. It is a restaurant with surprises and delectable twists to excite the taste buds. So to the dining room. If I said the colour scheme was green – yes, bottle green in some areas – it may be off-putting to some. However, think again. Offset with linen tablecloths, the candle-lit, 26-cover dining room with a flaming fire, plus golfing memorabilia and pictures, including water colours, of the surrounding area, was like taking a nostalgic walk back in time. We went on a chilly, Tuesday evening, driving through fog on the 25-minute trip from Edinburgh. Not the best of starts, but we chilled out in the cocktail bar, brushing shoulders will locals, some in for a pint with their dog or on the way home from working in the city. We also noted the extensive range of whisky and that was simply explained. Ducks have recently been welcomed by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society as a partner bar so guests have the opportunity to sample 16 distinctive single casks which are usually only available to Society members and their guests. The intriguing á la carte menu at award-winning Ducks – recently awarded 2 AA rosettes for its culinary excellence - sources much of its produce locally. Most restaurants do so, what makes Ducks different? There were five starters the night we visited. Pumpkin and ginger steamed winter vegetable soup, steak tartare with lime cure, pear and mustard seasoning, cod Mantecato with roasted potatoes, Cerignola olives and chives plus lemon sole three ways and chef’s salad. Sole three ways was delightfully different and inventive, wrapped around Jerusalem artichoke and beetroot, butternut squash and thyme, salsify and basil and with a celery and orange sauce. The basil twist was particularly effective. Pam and I were both intrigued by the salad. It included Alexander Grass, turnip, beetroot, fennel, pineapple, clementine, pomegranate and sea buckthorn sauce. It took her down memory lane as she enjoyed the pomegranate when she was at school. I will not say how long ago that was. It packed a mouth-watering punch and the turnip, cut in thin strips, sat well and was lifted by the colourful mix. What’s more, the balance of the flavor was a delight and the clementine exploded in the mouth. This augured well. Creativity is the name of the game for Allesandro. There were five main offerings, two meat, two fish and one vegetarian. I was drawn to the duo of quail by the potential. Roasted, cider cooked apple, lightly fried, filo nest, tempura vegetables and sweet red vinegar sauce. Pam picked carved sirloin of beef. The dish worked splendidly, the succulent meat complemented by the much under-valued kale, wild mushrooms and roasted Royal Kidney potatoes. The vegetarian option was savoy and red cabbage parcels, Basmati rice, Gorgonzola cheese with a saffron sauce, or cannelloni of sea fish with chickpea and rosemary sauce with seaweed or fillet of halibut with roasted tomatoes, black olives and seasonal vegetables. Malcolm believes in Allessandro and it is easy to see why. Take the desserts. Traditional apple strudel with vanilla ice cream, sacher torte with mint sauce, white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry jelly, parfait of hazelnut, pistachio and walnut with honey sauce, Granny Smith bavarese with cider jelly and chocolate or rhubarb crème brulee. There was also a selection of cheeses including Scottish - Isle of Mull cheddar, Dunsyre blue and Lanark white – were available. Yes, it’s tough being a food critic, we were spoilt for choice. Pam couldn’t resist the temptation of the crème brulee and my lactose intolerance directed me towards the apple strudel. This one had a twist, thin slivers of apple were smothered in a delicious Jamaican pepper and caramel sauce. Coffee came with handmade petits fours. My allergy meant chef created a pineapple alternative which was interesting. Neighbouring Donald’s – named after Malcolm’s father - serves bar/bistro style food along with real ale, 50 to 60 malts and diners also have access to the extensive wine list which includes bottles with a price tag into four figures. Alternatives in Donald’s range from a cup of soup and a sandwich to a 40-day matured fillet steak from well-known Buccleuch Estates and it is designed for relaxed meal after, possibly, a walk along the beach. The area is also popular with birdwatchers. Both restaurants are within Kilspindie House which has 26 bedrooms all en suite with free wi-fi and flat screen TVs. Longniddry Station – which is on the main East Coast rail line from London to Edinburgh - is only 18 mins by train from the centre of Edinburgh with a free bus pick up so there is every reason to touchdown at Ducks.

CASA ROMANA, A REAL GEM

Casa Romana 5 Albion Street Leicester LE1 6GD www.casaromana.co.uk Open six days for lunch and dinner 0116 2541174 RATING: FOOD: 5/5 AMBIANCE: 5/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 4/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 3/5 TOTAL: 24/30 It’s my last night in Leicester after attending the FSB’s National Conference and I go for a stroll to get some air. I take a wrong turning into a deserted side street but see a green door. Interesting? There is no sign outside but I catch a glimpse of wine bottles. Suddenly, a shirt sleeved man appears. I asked: “Is this a restaurant?” He replied: “It is.” I was intrigued so I follow him inside and I don’t regret the move. Casa Romana is a real gem. And the atmosphere inside the family-run restaurant is second-to-none. If I lived in Leicester I would be a frequent visitor it was that good. The food is superb. There were 12 starters on offer on the snowy, March night I dined there. I was tempted by the tuna and bean salad or pasta, and noodles with Italian sausage, tomatoes and cream a big draw but, as there was a chill in the air, I selected Minestrone soup and was not disappointed. Yes, it had the usual tomatoes, onions, garlic and celery but parsnip gave this dish an extra dimension. What’s more, the vegetables had real bite which added to the experience. The accompanying bread, with its crunchy crust, was perfect. Service was slick, after an initial hiccup over the order, and my main followed after much deliberation. Yes, I was tempted by medallions of fillet steak with peas in a mushroom and brandy sauce with tomatoes and a touch of cream was mouth-watering. Calves liver pan fried in lemon zest and butter was also an attraction but the grilled sea bream with a side salad and chips appealed more. Once again, it was simple but effective. The fish was drizzled with olive oil and a squirt of lemon added to the flavour. The green salad, dressed with olive oil, cider vinegar and oregano, was an ideal accompaniment to the soft-flavoured fish. And the thin-cut chips, well, they were perfect. The maddening thing is for me is that this was my last night and the chances of a re-visit are slim. However, if you live nearby then you should pay a visit.

KAZAN: ELEGENT DECOR AND GREAT FOOD

Kazan Restaurant 93-94 Wilton Street London SW1V 1DW 020 7233 7100 Victoria@kazanrestaurant.com Lunch: 12-3 Dinner: 5.30-10.30 It’s a Sunday night and I’m walking towards my hotel on my own with the temperature dropping by the minute. I’m getting hungry and have an avalanche of work to get through to a deadline so I think food. Surprisingly in downtown Victoria, restaurants are closed, even at 6.30pm. I spot a Brazilian restaurant which is packed, a good sign, but the menu does not excite. What about an up-market Italian? Nobody in and therefore no atmosphere and the menu is a tad fussy. The Spanish restaurant I eyed some weeks ago which looked promising was closed and so was the up-market fish and chip restaurant. Kazan then came into view. The elegant modern decor was eye-catching and the menu was inviting, even if the blurb was a trifle flowery. Kazan describe their food as: “A rich tapestry of tastes and pleasures all perfected in the Sultans' kitchens from the Ottoman era. “This infusion of history and taste has been brought back to life by our traditional Turkish chefs, recreating classic Ottoman dishes and creating new and exciting tastes we like to call Ottoman fusion.” However, first impressions are powerful and, blurb aside, Kazan undoubtedly looked the part. I was in a rush so one course was sufficient and they delivered. The service was slick and the food packed a punch. Within seconds of ordering – yes, there were other diners – I had wonderfully flavoured Turkish bread on the table with a superbly garlic, olive oil-based sauce with a touch of chilli. A brilliant opener. Then came the main. I was not disappointed. Earlier, I had asked for advice and it was given. They even took into account my allergy, lactose intolerance. The waiter consulted the chef and returned with alternatives. I stayed simple and plumped for Adana Kofte, speciality from the south of Turkey, fiery red chillies blended with minced lamb char grilled, served with salad and rice or chunky fries. Presentation was superb and the flavour? It flooded out. Nothing, however, was overpowering, even the chillies, and the mix was memorable. Eating alone is never pleasant however Kazan make every effort to please without going over the top. The atmosphere is just right and the spotless restaurant is one I’ll return to without hesitation.

CHOCK A BLOCK WITH NEW IDEAS

MyChocolate

Unit B1
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ

0207 269 5760

www.mychocolate.co.uk

 

SUNDAY afternoon. I’m walking out of Chancery Lane tube station heading into the unknown.

The destination is a course in chocolate making. I’m in unfamiliar territory. Yes, I enjoy cooking, but making chocolates? That’s a different world.

It is with trepidation that I make my way towards a factory unit in a side street. The co-ordinates are pressed and I am welcomed into a reception area. It is clinical and unnverving.

Within minutes I’m joined by around 24 people – and a guide dog – and we talk excitedly about the prospect.

Most are chocoholics. Many drool over the prospect of creating their own to have a ready supply to eat. Others crave the secrets of making chocolates to extend their culinary skills. All eulogise about chocolate. It seems a compulsion, an obsession. 

From my point of view there is only one other man, scary. We are ushered forward and walk down a flight of stairs into the basement and pick a seat. We make polite conversation and, thankfully, nobody seems to be an expert despite the fact that some seem to be accomplished cooks.

In strides Richard, our tutor. He explains the basics of the cocoa bean and we get to work.

We wash our hands, thoroughly, and then break up chocolate into a bowl. It is then whisked away for melting. When it returns and we get to work.

A chocolate biscuit is created using both plain and milk chocolate. It is simple, two tablespoons of plain chocolate and then a drizzle of milk chocolate.

After that, you could add a topping of coconut, hundreds and thousands or rose petals. No rules, design your own. However, the competitive nature of the delegates quickly became apparent so did the artistic skills, or lack of skills, of others.

We then split into teams to create chocolate balls with the addition of cream. This process is simple when you have an expert on hand.

But, boy does this process make a mess. I didn’t feel out of place as there was chocolate everywhere. Richard said the process would transport us back to childhood. He was so right.

Working in pairs, and against the clock, we filled a plastic piping bag – too difficult to wash chocolate from a muslin one, we were told - of the rich, dark mix.

Jenny, my partner for the exercise, then extracted the mix – about the size of a golf ball - onto the table and I rolled them in the cocoa, on the points of my fingers as the palm gives off too much heat.

Jenny cheated. Some of the chocolate didn’t make the mix. Temptation was strong and it ended up being eaten.

My grand-daughter would love this, I thought, as I rolled the chocolate and cream mix into balls and I dipped my imperfect chocolate shapes into the rich, dark liquid.

Removing them with a fork before then melted and without creating an almighty mess in an art. Much of the chocolate, I’m afraid, ended up on the table instead of the greaseproof paper.

But, we ended up bagging enough of our home-made chocolates to take them home as souvenirs. I forecast that they would not last long. They didn’t.

Everybody hugely enjoyed the experience, including the guide dog who lapped up all the scraps.

There were grand-dads, mums and daughters and parties of friends in our group and the excited chatter as we departed into the winter chill underlined how much participants had gained from the experience.

Me? Well, I’m determined to make some more. The effect is stunning and the effort minimal providing, of course, you adhere to simple principals. OK, my daughter just happened to mention what I had done to my grand-daughter and she wants to try. Surprise, surprise but a message for gran – be prepared for a mess in the kitchen.

The chocolate making workshops organised by MyChocolate are billed as an indulgent experience. They were for many on Sunday.

They are designed for corporate clients, team building or planning a hen party or for a gift experience and are run in London, Manchester and Brighton.

The two hours flew past. By the way, my chocolates didn’t last five minutes.