Mosaica
Unit COO5
The Chocolate Factory
Clarendon Road
Wood Green
London N22 6XJ
Open: Thuesday to Friday noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Saturday: 7pm to 10pm
Sunday: 1pm to 4pm
020 8889 2400
www.mosaicarestaurants.com
Mosaica has been around for over 10 years, where have you been? That’s the opening line on the web page.
Answer: trying to find the restaurant. It’s not easy. The high fence, seemingly locked gates and ten-foot high brick walls fooled us.
So did the fact that you have to walk past a huge sign displaying a raft of companies and then speak to a receptionist.
That said, it was 100 per cent worth the navigational angst. I have one word to describe this: magnificent.
Sure, that is a huge compliment but head chef Steve Goode and his team, who took over the highly-rated restaurant last December have a gem here.
One of their mantras is: You’re only as good as your last meal. We’ll I’ll be back as my first was thoroughly enjoyable.
The laid-back atmosphere, decor – loved the eclectic mix of furniture and the candle grease dripping down the walls – and the slick service (including quality explanations of the dish and ingredients and the flexibility for dietary needs) were admirable.
Their web site mirrors the style in the restaurant created in the basement of a former chocolate factory. I quote: “Whether you prefer jeans or the little black number, you'll feel right at home in our laid back New York loft shabby chic.” Spot on, the mix on the night we dined was interesting.
Their food is sourced from London’s two world-famous markets, Smithfield and Billingsgate.
Another quote: “The meats in particular almost have to come with a birth certificate, we have to know the parents names. The fish is still in rigor mortis stage when picked up at 5am from E London.”
So, to the food, once cooked. The freshly baked bread – served with olive oil dip and balsamic – was a hint of what was to come. Individual is the best word to describe it.
The house style is British seasonal produce with hints of European eccentricities and the menu is changed daily.
Sath plumped, after much debate, for foie gras with red onion chutney, cornichons and toast. My pick was oak smoked Scottish salmon with pickles and black pepper.
Mouth-watering other options included parma ham with feta and lavender infused honey, char grilled asparagus with parmy (Parmaison) and leaves, bufala caprase salad, roasted Portobello mushroom with melted blue cheese or grilled Brixham sardines with gremolata.
Verdict: foie gras was sublime, rich and packed with flavour. Sath said he’d never tasted better. I had a slice and I’ll never eat supermarket foie gras again.
I’m Scottish and like salmon. The portion was ample and the pickles added extra bite. A good dish.
On to the main. Salt March lamb rump was Sath’s selection. It came with parsley mash and greens.
I plumped for rare old Gloucester ribeye with Kenyans (green beans). It was supposed to come with garlic mash but the mash has a dairy input. They instantly suggested sauté potatoes.
We could have tried Cajun loch salmon with truffle crushed potatoes and tenderstem, sword fish with chervil and butterbean broth, 21-hour roast pork bells with mustard mash and red cabbage, goats cheese, lemon and pine nut risotto, grilled seabass with fettuccine and cockles buerre noisette or Reg Johnston’s chicken with chorizo potatoes and wilted spinach. Innivative, interesting and enterprising.
We didn’t have room for pudding but the selection included English cheeses, Leagrams yoghurt with fresh mango, orange, honey and pistachio,
profiteroles with Belgian chocolate sauce, sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and ice cream plate (banana, deluche de leche and hazelnut).
Tempting yes but I have to watch my waist line. Overall, this could not be faulted apart from the jus with the rib eye. In my opinion, it didn’t quite complement the meat but both the lamb and beef were cooked beautifully.
The Mosaica also has a decent selection of real ales and foreign lagers as well as an extensive wine list.
They do take-away at lunchtime as well as sit-in. It’s busy so book but it is well worth a visit.
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