NO BONES TO PICK WITH CAFE FISH

Cafe Fish
15 North West Circus Place
Edinburgh
EH3 6SX
T: 0131 225 4431
Open: Seven days from 10am (for coffees and pastries)
From 12 noon with a lunch time and all-day menu
From 6pm for dinner (last orders at 9.30pm)

THE tiny cactus sitting next to the salt and pepper on each table was quirky and spoke volumes for the management of Cafe Fish. Simply, it summed up the attention to detail.
Everything has been thought out, from the decor to what appears on the plate. Cafe Fish can’t be faulted.
The restaurant was first established in Edinburgh’s now trendy old port at Leith in the spring of 2009. News of its quality spread fast and it quickly became a place to visit.
Richard Muir was so strong in his belief that the project would work near the centre of Scotland’s Capital that he took a leap of faith and moved to affluent Stockbridge.
His chosen location is in a former bank and the 1930’s interior features some stunning art deco work, including wonderful wood and marble floors.
An aluminium oyster bar is a prominent feature and it is complemented by aluminium tables. Some could consider this cold, but we felt it oozed class and cleanliness.
The move meant overheads increased, but so did the footfall exposure for this superb establishment. Cafe Fish now enjoys a prominent position near one of Edinburgh’s leading inner-city villages, Stockbridge.
The 65-cover restaurant (with an outside terrace for 18) is open all day, seven days, catering for a cross section, from mums with prams to discerning diners. It is busy, a testament to its quality.
Locally sourced fish and shellfish is key to this project. Even the bread is specially-selected, locally.
Speak to Mr Muir and he will tell you exactly who supplied your pan roasted sea bass or trout and the menu changes to suit what is available.
Cafe Fish is chic but not stuffy and part of that informality is having part of the kitchen on view to diners.
You can watch your meal being constructed before serving. Once again, attention to detail.
Head chef Stuart Lynch has been in charge since last August and his enthusiastic team are anxious to please.
What’s more, they have recruited a Japanese sushi trained and qualified chef, adding a welcome extra touch as well as providing another PR outlet.
Business is brisk. Weekends are heavily booked but weekday business is 70 per cent walk-up, underpinning the superb choice of location.
Cafe Fish is also in demand for groups of between 12 and 18, but don’t worry. The group area is discreetly tucked away at the back of the restaurant.
So, what about the food. It’s a deliciously small menu but with something for everybody, including vegetarian.
Pam opened with Cafe Fish cakes with citrus mayo. The delicate flavours made this a joy.
My selection was grilled queenies (Queen scallops) with Pernod and garlic butter. The dish was beautifully presented and the taste was divine. What’s more, the dressing on the salad was light and just right for the delicate scallops.
Alternatives were cured salmon, beetroot, orange and radish or wild duck terrine, dried plum compote and sour dough toast, Inverawe smoked salmon pate with sour dough toast, or pear, rocket, Gorgonzola, truffle with hazelnut dressing.
On to the main. Shetland blueshell mussels, coconut, chilli, coriander and chips or pan-seared sea bream, aubergine masala, coriander chutney and pilau rice were appealing.
So was the option of gnocci, wild mushroom, sage, onion with parmesan reggiano.
However, Pam picked the Cafe Fish and chips with crushed peas and tartare sauce. We were both curious to see what the chef could do with a well-loved, simple dish.
We’ll, it was worth waiting for. The fish was beautifully cooked, the batter superb, the crushed peas were exquisite and the chips were to die for. Yes, I stole one and the taste, with added sea salt, was superb.
My selection was roast North Atlantic cod, Toulouse sausage and cannellini beans cassoulet with garlic and parsley. The flavour flooded out, to coin a phrase, and the beans and sausage worked well with the cod.
There are other options. For example, Donegal oysters or 28-day aged Orkney rib-eye steak, with Cafe de Paris butter and chips, but they have a supplement.
The overall reaction. Super restaurant and undoubtedly worth a visit, particularly at £22 for two courses.
Oh, and Sunday lunch has just started (to December). Three courses £19.50 including a bottle of wine between two. I’ll be in the queue.
What’s more, and again attention to detail, if you are in a hurry then they are happy to fit you in, and Cafe Fish are delighted to cope with diners with allergies.