CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED

CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED Grandeur of the Seas

Royal Caribbean Review by Nigel Duncan Quick look What to see Eating Out Sleepover Getting there IT is 7am. The Grandeur of the Seas is entering the Bay of Naples. On the starboard side is the world-famous volcano Vesuvius and on the port side the rugged Italian coastline. Nine of us are jogging on deck ten. The sun is about to rise and the temperature is 28C. It’s tough going completing two miles – eight times around the deck - as the humidity level is high. However, the view is stunning. It’s unlikely I’ll ever have a more memorable place to run. Less than an hour later we’ve docked and hundreds of us on the 2,446-capacity ship walk into town, women for retail therapy and men running the gauntlet of the street trader and the enthusiastic taxi men always eager to negotiate. We were spared the pushy salesmen in the other ports we visited but, for some, that is part of the allure of cruising. What to see: Part of the appeal of a cruise is waking up in another port. We called at five ports and the French city of Marseilles which was the only place where we had to take a bus as the ship was docked a distance from the town. The quayside fish market was disappointing after all I’ve heard about it but, if you are prepared to walk, then this bustling port is an ideal place to wander. A little train can take the strain for those less energetic. Typical French architecture, wide streets, atmospheric buildings and, for the ladies, a great shopping experience, with world-wide brands to the fore, make this an ideal stop-over. Take a brolly as we were caught in a horrendous cloudburst when the streets were flooded in seconds. One hour later the sun was out and everything was back to normal. Corsica was our next port of call, 210 miles south-east of Marseilles, and we docked at the capital, Ajaccio on a sparking day. The train trip of around 90 minutes takes you in and around the West Coast town - there seemed to be statues of Napoleon on every street - but this excursion went further, along the coastline and through several resorts, perfect for people tempted to plan a holiday here. It ended at Napoleon’s, four-storey, birthplace. Naples was next. We docked in scorching temperatures but, as I’d been there before, we decided to go walkabout, firstly to the main shopping streets, and then, when it became too hot, meandering back to the ship through narrow and shaded side-streets. Off the beaten track, Naples has a charm. Men playing cards, groups of locals sitting chatting, washing lines from one side of the street to the other, people rowing – loudly - and wonderful little shops selling everything from pastry to pizza to hand-made souvenirs. We picked up several gifts at decent prices because we were off the main track and the walk opened my eyes about the busy city. Sicily was next with Catania, underneath Mount Etna, chosen. The town has a long, eventful history and is now one of the main economic, tourism and education centers on the island. The fruit market is a delight – huge tomatoes and watermelons – but the noisy fish market is brim full of characters as well as a staggering array of fish. It was a highlight and the pavement cafes offer an ideal place to sit and watch the world go by and the huge outdoor market – food, including cheese and meat plus shoes, at staggeringly low prices - is a magnet for locals and tourists. Malta was out final destination with Valetta the harbour. The capital is home to around 7,000 people and it is easy to see why the 16th-century Baroque architecture made it a World Heritage Site. We took a short taxi ride from the dock to the centre – five minutes – and then wandered. The car-free streets made this a joy to stroll around and the shops – including several well-known brands – were augmented by local traders selling a range of goods, including jewellery. A local market was also available with keen prices. Eating out: Facilities on board are second-to-none. A recent, five-week, $48m refit has doubled the number of restaurants, Grandeur of the Seas is the eighth ship within Royal Caribbean International’s 22 strong fleet to undergo planned revitalisation. The re-furbishment included increasing the dining options onboard which have nearly doubled with the addition of five restaurants They include: Giovanni’s Table: An Italian trattoria featuring Italian classics served family-style Izumi: Featuring a sushi bar with hot-rock cooking Park Café: An indoor/outdoor gourmet market featuring salads, sandwiches, soups and pastries (No additional cost) Chef’s Table: An exclusive and private experience co-hosted by the executive Chef and Sommelier for a wine pairing dinner of five courses Chops Grille: Royal Caribbean International’s signature steakhouse featuring a menu of prime cuts. The speciality restaurants onboard incur an additional cost - guests have the option of choosing from several different dining packages which range from $50 to $120 per guest - all the main and buffet restaurants are included within the price of the cruise. And they are good. Surprisingly, the Windjammer Restaurant proved the most consistent, topping the main dining room. The range of food served from early to late was stunning. The crew – made up of over 50 nationalities – made sure of that. From breakfast to dinner, they had something to excite the palate. Freshly-cooked omelettes were a speciality (with eight fillings to pick from) and the Chinese chef made them into a work of art. The fruit and cereal collection, plus cold buffet (with salmon) was enough for anybody, even those with allergies. Yes, soya milk was available along with a choice of wheat-free bread. The League of Nations crew in the kitchen made lunch a constant draw. Chinese stir fry, Italian hunters stew, roast brisket and roast pork (with apple sauce) and a huge array of salads. They were superb. The soup, made with home-made stock, was consistently good and my particular favourite was minestrone. It was packed with flavour. And the sweets. There were normally around four plus fruit and were eye-catching. They normally tasted as good as they looked, particularly the almond cake and banana and coconut slice. Service in the main dining room was slick. We were fortunate. Kanga from St Vincent provided a wealth of information as well as being a quick wit. Advesh from Delhi was quietly efficient but also had a keen sense of humour. My niece didn’t want a sweet one evening. Not to be left out he placed a plate at her position with the word nothing discreetly iced on it. A nice touch. You had to watch your waistline, but jogging around the deck helped with that. The constant supply of coffee, teas – including speciality – and water on deck nine made it hard to complain. Sleepover: The quality of the cabins – with ensuite – was spot on. They were not big but more than adequate with cunning cupboards and more than enough storage space. Little things count and, in the evening, the cabin attendant normally created a sculpture from the linen. One night a monkey, the next an elephant. The en suite shower room was equipped with a surprisingly strong flow of water. The only disappointment was the lack of stations on the TV and the daily updates on the ship video channel were memorable by their mediocrity. Entertainment: A new baby and toddler nursery has been incorporated as part of the refit as well as a giant outdoor cinema screen. The Centrum – a giant atrium in the centre of the ship - has been transformed into a major entertainment area featuring a range of daytime activities, nightly shows and aerial performers. Sadly, the live showtime performances in the Atrium area failed to live up to the billing. It was the same in the superbly-equipped, on-board theatre. The entertainment, apart from Scottish singer Brenda Cochrane, who knew how to work an audience made up of several different nationalities, was disappointing. The well-equipped ships gym has all most need for a decent workout and the classes were tailor-made to suit participants. I know, I did one about keeping the body in shape. Refreshments: We had one major gripe – the price of drinks. It was OTT and other passengers, who had cruised with other companies, were not amused. Think again Royal Caribbean. Getting there: Easy, flight from Glasgow to Palma and a 20 minute bus trip to the quayside. Overall: We loved life on board and would do another cruise, mainly because of the variety of stop-overs and the food.

SCOTTISH LARDER WITH A SUBTLE TWIST

Stac Polly 29-33 Dublin Street Edinburgh EH3 6NL 0131 556 2231 www.stacpolly.com ROGER Coulthard has steered Stac Polly through the last two decades and it is easy to see why he has been so successful. The owner/chef skilfully merges traditional Scottish produce with innovative ideas. Clients obviously appreciate his creative skills as the intimate restaurant just minutes from Edinburgh’s world-famous Princes Street was packed on a damp Wednesday night. Remember, we are in the midst of a double-dip recession. Stac Polly – or in Gaelic, Stac Pollaidh - stands out just like the rocky crest in the North-West Highlands of Scotland which gives the restaurant its name. Why? Because it is refreshingly different in style and substance. Sure, there is a tartan carpet throughout and cartons of whisky on the shelves. The Scottish theme is, thankfully, understated. The subtle lighting, augmented by candles and neat floral arrangements, certainly adds to the overall effect. Where Roger stands out is in the creative menu. Duncan and I took time to ponder. However, I was particularly struck by the potential of duck, which I love, and pomegranate. I normally loathe the purple fruit which is a native of modern day Iraq and Iran and is now grown extensively in the Himalayas, Northern India and in the Middle East. Duncan loves scallops but we are also intrigued by the warm summer butternut squash soup with ginger, watermelon and coconut milk, smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade, baked filo pastry parcels of finest haggis with a sweet plum and red wine sauce. The vegetarian offer was baked caramelised red onion and beetroot tartlet, goats cheese, summer leaves and pesto dressing. Duncan plumped for the Loch Fine Queen scallops grilled in the shell and topped with a smoked salmon butter. They were cooked to perfection and the delicate topping of smoked salmon and citrus butter was perfect. My carpaccio of spiced and cured duck breast, beetroot salad, cherry tomatoes, grated hazelnut, parmesan tuile and, much to my amazement, the pomegranate dressing was a delight. On to the main. There were six choices. Rump of Borders lamb with aubergine confit and Stornoway black pudding in a red wine sauce excited. So did breast of corn-fed chicken filled with Scottish brie and wrapped in Parma ham. Salmon, not surprisingly for a Scottish restaurant, was on the menu, on this occasion with fresh horseradish and herb crumble, but I’d enjoyed salmon for breakfast elsewhere so I passed. Traditional or vegetarian haggis with neeps (carrots and turnips) and tatties (potatoes) were on offer but Duncan selected the rib-eye of Aberdeen Angus beef, smoked Applewood cheddar and onion gratin, caramelised shallot, fine beans with a wild mushroom and Burgundy cream sauce. He’s travelled the world extensively and has eaten the best meat on board ship in all parts of the globe. He adored the dish and has not stopped talking about it since. I was intrigued by the use of pak choi with sea bass. The two dainty fillets arrived on a bed of cherry tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, fine beans, and pak choi, with red chilli and onion and coriander salsa. The softness of the fish fitted well with the vegetables but this was an interesting rather than a spectacular dish. We declined the offer of sweets as we were satisfied. There were five, by the way. Lemon cheesecake, blackcurrent ice cream with red fruits coulis, dark chocolate tear drop and strawberry moose, vanilla pod crème brulee with Stac Polly shortbread, traditional Cranachan (cream, Drambuie, honey, oatmeal and raspberries) or Celtic cheese and home made chutney. Stac Polly reached the heights for Duncan and the intimate restaurant with a strong pedigree certainly deserves a visit.

THAI MASTER CLASS

Krua Thai Cookery School Liberton Edinburgh EH16 6AQ 0131 664 3036 www.kruathai.co.uk Ru Herd looked at the milk pan in which my Pandan leaf had become unravelled and smiled. Hers remained in the white liquid, beautifully tied. I knew it should not have happened but, typically, Ru encouraged constantly throughout my lesson. This was certainly not Hell’s Kitchen. She puts you at ease. However, it is difficult not to be blown away as it is not every day you go one-to-one with a master chef. Ru doesn’t just run a cookery school. She is a food consultant. Major firms come to her kitchen to create and refine dishes. She has a client list with packed with names from around 20 countries. What’s more, celebrities and world-famous sports stars have shared her kitchen. This soft-spoken mum, who has a BA Hons and a myriad of cooking and culinary art, qualifications, also caters for a star-studded guest list and blue-chip companies for corporate events. The list, and her achievements since arriving in the UK over two decades ago from Thailand, are mind-blowing. So, there I was, an amateur chef, standing in her well-appointed kitchen about to create four authentic Thai dishes. On the table were vegetables and fruit which I’d never seen. However, throughout the whole experience, I did not feel intimidated. Rather, I was encouraged to cut, dice, select ingredients and cook four dishes. The proof of the pudding is in the eating goes the old phrase. Well, you get a takeaway so your friends and family can sample the fruits of your labours over the hot stove in Ru’s kitchen. What struck me more than anything else was the subtlety of her approach. All the flavours were balanced. Tasting was done constantly and a wee bit of this and that was added if she was not 100 per cent happy. This was authentic Thai cooking. Some of the ingredients she uses are specially imported from Thailand and Vietnam – that’s how deeply Ru goes into detail. I was introduced to Kra-chaai, Pandan leaf, aubergine – not the ones we are used to – Chinese chives and radishes, galangal, bean curd, Israeli basil – yes it is different - and even dried prawns. We cut and used lime leaves and shrimp paste, created our own stock and I was even advised on which brands of product to buy in a Chinese supermarket. She even provided the locations. Minute detail goes into quality cooking and Ru has this down to a fine art. And, speaking of art, every course delegate receives a stunning carved melon to take away. I was in awe as she does the carving. My takeaway was in a box with a ribbon. Yes, Ru, who has worked in top hotels and restaurants, does that too. And everything is done with a smile and an explanation. If you don’t understand then ask and remember, she will tell you when the vegetables or meat is not cut to her liking! So, what was crammed into my session. I made four dishes. Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts – we even fried real peanuts which we crushed for this. Fried rice with egg. Believe me, this was top notch and not difficult. Chicken red curry with galangal and lemon grass, and a superb dessert, cooked banana in coconut cream. Impressive list and one which would wow any dinner party guests. And yes, you get to take away the recipes. One drawback, Ru is not by your side when you try to recreate these recipes in your own kitchen. One thing which stood out for me was her organisation. All sauces were sited next to the cooker. All had wee dishes which could easily be accessed and preparation was crucial. We also used only one pan the whole afternoon, apart from cooking dessert, of course, so this was economic cooking. And we also made home-made stock. No, we didn’t add bay leaves and an array of vegetables. We just used parts of a carcass of a chicken and then strained away the fat. This was authentic and the course was packed with hints and tips. The do’s and don’ts of cooking rice, a real problem for me, despite having a rice cooker, basically, I never get it right, were explained even down to simple measuring tricks for rice and water. This was cooking in the raw. It was both educational and entertaining and I loved it. You would too. PS: I’m now off to the Chinese supermarket to buy ingredients. I’m hooked.