SCOTTISH LARDER WITH A SUBTLE TWIST

Stac Polly 29-33 Dublin Street Edinburgh EH3 6NL 0131 556 2231 www.stacpolly.com ROGER Coulthard has steered Stac Polly through the last two decades and it is easy to see why he has been so successful. The owner/chef skilfully merges traditional Scottish produce with innovative ideas. Clients obviously appreciate his creative skills as the intimate restaurant just minutes from Edinburgh’s world-famous Princes Street was packed on a damp Wednesday night. Remember, we are in the midst of a double-dip recession. Stac Polly – or in Gaelic, Stac Pollaidh - stands out just like the rocky crest in the North-West Highlands of Scotland which gives the restaurant its name. Why? Because it is refreshingly different in style and substance. Sure, there is a tartan carpet throughout and cartons of whisky on the shelves. The Scottish theme is, thankfully, understated. The subtle lighting, augmented by candles and neat floral arrangements, certainly adds to the overall effect. Where Roger stands out is in the creative menu. Duncan and I took time to ponder. However, I was particularly struck by the potential of duck, which I love, and pomegranate. I normally loathe the purple fruit which is a native of modern day Iraq and Iran and is now grown extensively in the Himalayas, Northern India and in the Middle East. Duncan loves scallops but we are also intrigued by the warm summer butternut squash soup with ginger, watermelon and coconut milk, smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade, baked filo pastry parcels of finest haggis with a sweet plum and red wine sauce. The vegetarian offer was baked caramelised red onion and beetroot tartlet, goats cheese, summer leaves and pesto dressing. Duncan plumped for the Loch Fine Queen scallops grilled in the shell and topped with a smoked salmon butter. They were cooked to perfection and the delicate topping of smoked salmon and citrus butter was perfect. My carpaccio of spiced and cured duck breast, beetroot salad, cherry tomatoes, grated hazelnut, parmesan tuile and, much to my amazement, the pomegranate dressing was a delight. On to the main. There were six choices. Rump of Borders lamb with aubergine confit and Stornoway black pudding in a red wine sauce excited. So did breast of corn-fed chicken filled with Scottish brie and wrapped in Parma ham. Salmon, not surprisingly for a Scottish restaurant, was on the menu, on this occasion with fresh horseradish and herb crumble, but I’d enjoyed salmon for breakfast elsewhere so I passed. Traditional or vegetarian haggis with neeps (carrots and turnips) and tatties (potatoes) were on offer but Duncan selected the rib-eye of Aberdeen Angus beef, smoked Applewood cheddar and onion gratin, caramelised shallot, fine beans with a wild mushroom and Burgundy cream sauce. He’s travelled the world extensively and has eaten the best meat on board ship in all parts of the globe. He adored the dish and has not stopped talking about it since. I was intrigued by the use of pak choi with sea bass. The two dainty fillets arrived on a bed of cherry tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, fine beans, and pak choi, with red chilli and onion and coriander salsa. The softness of the fish fitted well with the vegetables but this was an interesting rather than a spectacular dish. We declined the offer of sweets as we were satisfied. There were five, by the way. Lemon cheesecake, blackcurrent ice cream with red fruits coulis, dark chocolate tear drop and strawberry moose, vanilla pod crème brulee with Stac Polly shortbread, traditional Cranachan (cream, Drambuie, honey, oatmeal and raspberries) or Celtic cheese and home made chutney. Stac Polly reached the heights for Duncan and the intimate restaurant with a strong pedigree certainly deserves a visit.