CASTLE TERRACE: DESERVES ATTENTION

THE CASTLE TERRACE RESTAURANT 33-35 Castle Terrace Edinburgh EH1 2EL 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 and 18.30 to 22.0 Closed Sunday and Monday TOM Kitchen formed a friendship with Dominic Jack when they were both young chefs working at the world-famous Gleneagles Hotel. Now, several years on, the pair have teamed up to create The Castle Terrace Restaurant experience. The name may be bland but this is more than made up for by the creativity of the cuisine. This is refinement redefined, sophistication without being stuffy and culinary flair at the leading edge, showcasing the finest ingredients from Scotland’s world-famous larder. The French-Scottish dishes have made this a haven for discerning diners and, since the restaurant opened in July 2010, it was won a number of awards including Restaurant of the Year and Most Innovative Restaurant. It is easy to see why. The visual appeal of the food blends with a fusion of flavours. What’s more, Castle Terrace take attention to detail to an exceptionally high level. They even created special menu to accommodate my lactose intolerance. It was so appealing that several of my companions were interested in considering my dishes rather than options on the regular menu. That attention to detail was evident as we chatted before lunch. Canapés arrived on individual wooden platters and were an indication of what was to come. The caper berry was a mouth-watering surprise and the black olives and pepper bruschetta had me seeking more. So, what was on offer on the three-course lunch menu? Three starters: freshly picked brown crab from Newhaven, served with mango, avocado and roasted red pepper or crispy Ayrshire pork belly served with figs and port or tartare of line caught mackerel from Eyemouth served with apple and ginger. They all sounded wonderful but I eventually plumped for the mackerel as I was anxious to see if Mr Jack had succeeded in fusing an oily fish with the strong flavour of ginger and the sweetness of the apple. It was certainly eye-catching but, sadly, I felt the flavours worked against each other. Others may differ. The chef’s creativity was, however, shown to its full with the main. Poached fillet of North Sea plaice, served with “pink fur apple” potatoes was stunning in concept and superb in taste. I’ll not spoil the effect, but this was not how chefs traditionally serve flatfish. Red-legged partridge from Tullybeagles Estate, served with cabbage, grapes, carrots and celery was another winner. My fellow diners enthused about it. Me? I’ve been terribly disappointed with hake dishes in the past but I was confident this time. The two tender roasted fillets of North Sea hake arrived on a bed of haricot beans and chorizo. Simple and effective to the eye, it was a delight to the palate. There were three options to finish: a seasonal fruit salad, a selection of sorbet or pistachio and coconut soufflé served with pineapple sorbet. It was an easy choice and the soufflé looked as good as it tasted. Mr Jack trained at Edinburgh’s Telford College. He then worked at the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel before moving up-market to a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris. He was headhunted to be Chef de Cuisine at the Swissôtel in Istanbul before returning to his hometown of Edinburgh to link up with Tom Kitchin at award-winning The Kitchin in Leith. Their passion and the restaurant’s philosophy - from nature to plate – is attracting a healthy clientele. The restaurant was busy and the relaxing atmosphere – with a subtle touch of tartan - added to the occasion. That attention to detail even was maintained throughout and presenting the menu wrapped in a blue ribbon to guests as they departed was a pleasing touch. So was the explanation of each course. The Castle Terrace Restaurant undoubtedly deserves attention.