L'ESCARGOT BLEU, A TASTE OF FRANCE IN CENTRAL EDINBURGH

L’Escargot Bleu
56 Broughton Street
Edinburgh
EH1 3SA
0131 557 1600

www.lescargotbleu.co.uk

THERE is much to commend L’Escargot Bleu. The ambiance, its location, Rebecca, an impeccable manager, and the care and attention put into the food, to name a few.
However, there were irritants which worked against what could be a superb city centre restaurant.
Let’s start with the pluses. Pam’s Scottish asparagus and black pudding with grain mustard and herb crumbs was sensational.
The pudding was moist and the topping exploded in the mouth. A stunning starter.
My grilled fillet of red mullet served on a bed of baby artichoke salad with a walnut oil vinaigrette was eye-catching.
The moist, warm mullet, however, jarred with the cold artichoke, a disappointment. The vinaigrette was subtle and appealing.
There were five other starters including steamed mussels Basquaise with Roscoff onions, red peppers and tomato or chicken galantine with black truffles served with a Gribiche sauce.
On to the main. Undoubtedly, the owners stick to their slogan of a French twist using the best of Scotland.
Eight selections were available. I was particularly tempted by the gratin of Stirlingshire line caught pike and squid in Armoricaine sauce with baby spinach.
The braised ox cheeks with a la Bourguignonne with pancetta and mushrooms was appealing.
There was also the signature dish, Buccleuch estate whole rib of beef cooked to your liking and carved at the table, served with potatoes, jus and a green salad.
However, Pam plumped for duck au vin – yes duck – and my selection was home-made bouillabaisse with a fish selection served with aioli and croutons.
Sadly, the duck failed to excite. It was well-cooked but lacked significant flavor and the accompanying cauliflower – no cheese topping – was in marked contrast to the sweetness of the duck. The accompanying salad was superfluous.
My bouillabaisse was packed with flavor and the accompanying spoon was just the job for mopping up the excellent juice.
However, the green salad which accompanied it was lumped in with the sauce. Warm lettuce is not my favourite dish.
Furthermore, the grilled prawns, I felt, were out of place. I was assured later that they were included by the chef to provide rustic authenticity. I’d have preferred they were not there.
L’Escargot Bleu produces interesting food and is extremely popular, but needs to concentrate on fine detail to move it up a notch.