Wednesday, December 29, 2010

LANCERS: A FIXTURE FOR 25 YEARS


Lancers Brasserie
5 Hamilton place
Stockbridge
Edinburgh
EH3 5BA
0131 332 3444
0131 332 9559
info@lancersbrasserie.co.uk
www.lancersbrasserie.co.uk
Open daily: 12-2.30 and 5.30 to 11.30

STOCKBRIDGE is one of my favourite places in Edinburgh, an up-market village-style area within a lively, Capital city.
Lancers Brasserie has been a fixture in the area for over 25 years and it has collected a string of awards during that time.
It calls itself Edinburgh’s finest Bengali and North Indian Restaurant and the web site declared: “In choosing Lancers Brasserie you have paid us a compliment and set us the task of living up to your standards.”
It has been featured on Channel 4’s Currie Connection, is listed in major food guides and has been named as the best Indian restaurant in Scotland by the Good Curry Guide as well as being labelled one of the best Indian restaurants in Great Britain by The Guide to Edinburgh’s Best.
A Les Routiers Hospitality Award came the restaurants way in 2000 so expectations were exceedingly high, particularly as Lancers has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment.
Management hope the recent face-lift will ensure clients “enjoy the meal of your life”. That is a huge build-up.
Naturally, are expectations were extremely high. So, were we blown away?
Sadly not. Lancers enjoys a central location, minutes from the heart of Scotland’s Capital city, and it has style. The linen table cloths were beautifully starched, the cutlery spotless and the distinctive dinner service, with hot plates, a positive plus.
The food is good, the restaurant and toilets are spotless, and the modern decor definitely up-market and stylish, but little things count at the top end.
The lighting was too bright and the service, although slick, lacked panache. The menu is huge. It took time to digest but Pam’s starter, a house speciality of Lancers’ assorted kebabs, was wonderful. The assortment of tandooried kebabs melted in the mouth and none were too hot to handle. An ideal way to begin the meal.
I was, however, disappointed with the Murgh Cocktail. It looked delicious. Chicken minced with onions, special herbs and spices, skewered and barbecued tandoori murgh on a bed of salad.
Visually it looked good, however, the dish was on the dry side and, after the first of three cocktails, it became bland. It didn’t help that the lemon provided to give the dish added zest lacked liquid.
I was, however, uplifted by the main. There is a huge selection and, interestingly enough, there is a French, yes French, alternative.
I mused over several including Lancers classics including Badami Korma, a mild, delicate sauce of natural yoghurt, cream, almonds, coconuts, fresh herbs and spices, or Danask, a rate combination of herbs and spices prepared with lentils and pineapple, but eventually plumped for Khatta Tarkary. This is available in chicken or lamb. I plumped for lamb.
The meat was to taste and the sliced garlic, fresh herbs and tomato sauce was packed with flavour. The flavours merged deliciously to provide a wonderful main and the accompanying nan, coated with fresh garlic and coriander, was spot on. A delightful dish.
Pam was equally enthusiastic about her Shahjahani Murgh. The chicken plus almonds and sultanas was cooked in a mild sauce. None of the flavours was overpowering and the mix was intoxicating. A lovely dish.
Portions were just right and after two courses we were replete. Sweets were declined.
Interestingly, Lancers have a vegetarian dinner for one or two, as well as a number of vegetarian starters and main dishes on the menu.
They also boast a number of special meals recommended as a suitable introduction to Bengali and North Indian cuisine.
Also, the restaurant has two other dining rooms including a discreet one called the Officers’ Club with a separate bar for 20 diners. We enjoyed the experience and would return, but would hope that the little things were corrected to make Lancers an unforgettable experience.
PS: They also do a take-way menu. And it is extensive.

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