Thursday, December 2, 2010

ROTTERDAM: A SURPRISE PACKAGE


ROTTERDAM, Europe’s biggest port, and internationally known for its modern architecture, design and creativity, also features a number of festivals ranging from a BladeRun rally to the largest Carribean carnival summer party in Europe and, together, they form a major plank in the city’s tourism promotion.
Rotterdam is conveniently close to Den Haag, the seat of Government of The Netherlands, and the vibrant city of Amsterdam, renowned the world over for its canals and bicycles, so it is an ideal base for touring.
We had a whistle-stop, one-day, tour and had our eyes opened, not just by the variety of the offering but also in the food.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE: The Dutch are past masters at invention and discovery. Dutch scientists and engineers have made a remarkable contribution to human progress as a whole, from something as simple as the sawmill to microbiology. It is also home to a number of fine museums.
The Boijmans, one of the oldest museums in The Netherlands, includes Dutch and European masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the 21st century.
From ancient to modern. Towering above the city is the 185-metre Euromast. The concrete skeleton was built in 23 days and a restaurant, 92 metres high, serves an international cuisine.
Below lies Europe’s first pedestrianised shopping area was opened in the Lijnbaan in 1953 and it offers a choice of large stores and small boutiques. It is also an area for clubs and theatres.
Modern buts on to historical and the city, devastated during the Second World War, still boasts impressive relics of the past. Historic ships contrast with the modern backdrop in Oude Haven (Old Harbour) where the first skyscraper in Europe was built in 1989.
The Maritime Museum is the oldest in the country with over 500,000 exhibits and the working Harbour Museum (free) features operating cranes and where traditional crafts are demonstrated.
Consider buying a welcome card which offers discounts of 25 per cent to 50 attractions (museums, restaurants and entertainment venues) plus up to three days unlimited travel.

EATING OUT: We sauntered into versatile Smaak. Located in at Westelijk Handelsterrein, it serves lunch, cocktails and dinner. The comfortable and informal setting was ideal for our party. So was the menu. There was bags of choice. The marinade of Norwegian salmon was tempting, so was the beef carpaccio (pine nuts, chives, bacon, Parmesan cheese, capers and a raspberry dressing).
I was also interested by sushi of mackerel, avacado and an apple and curry chutney but I plumped for a cold salmon salad which was superb. Others had spicy pumpkin soup with chopped spring onion and bacon which was also appreciated.
Main was also a problem, for all the right reasons. Skate with green asparagus, tomatoes and lemon beurre blanc was interesting so was the lamb fillet with a terrine of sweet potatoes, mini carrots, spinach, cream of pea and cress and port sauce. Indonesian-style chiken was tempting I eventually plumped for a simple steak.
I was fortunate. I enjoy rare and it came like that. Surprisingly, nobody was asked for their preference, a real downer particularly for those who don’t do rare.
For sweet, even the French in our party liked the vanilla creme brule. There was also white chocolate panacotta, salad of blood orange and blackberry jelly but I opted for sorbet. It was beautifully presented and came in three flavours with nuts. It was so good I had to fend off some admiring fellow diners.
There is a choice not just on the menu. This quality restaurant also has an undercover terrace for those who want to sample the dishes from around the world in an even more laid-back environment.
Restaurant Smaak (Restaurant Smaak: Van Vollenhovenstraat 15, Rotterdam, Netherlands (tel:+31 (0)10 436 2294; +31 (0)10 436 2294, e-mail: info@restaurantsmaak.nl
cost three course set menu: £35 - £50 per person. Open every day from noon) is one of many wine and dine venues in the Westelijk Handelsterrein complex, and the converted warehouse, which dates from 1894, is only a short walk from the main harbour area. Smaak, incidentally, translates into taste in English. This establishment has taste in more than once sense.
Also, if you don’t fancy a full meal, try Stadhuisplein which has popular bars and pavement cafes. Every night is party night in that area.
MaHo is another place for a drink with a variety of coffee bars, pubs, lunchrooms, take-aways and restaurants. You won’t want for somewhere to sit, refresh yourself and watch the world go by in Rotterdam but there is plenty to do and see.

SLEEPOVER: We stayed at the well-appointed Inntel Hotel, Rotterdam Centre, overlooking the harbour. Our room was E120 (shower only, facing the street) and breakfast £18. The room, which thankfully had a really comfortable bed, had all modern features and a mini bar and tea/coffee making facilities but, irritatingly, a 1ltr bottle of still water was charged at E4.95 and 0.5ltr at E3.50. The breakfast had fruit and cereal options followed by a selection of meat and cheese or cooked (scrambled eggs and sadly off-putting, greasy bacon). The selection of rolls and bread was a bonus. Residents enjoy high-speed, free internet access and it is well used by businessmen who can enjoy the meal plus a glass of champagne. A gym and small swimming pool is open from 6am to 11pm. I opted out.

ROUND-OFF: The bustling, industrial city of Rotterdam was not on the top of my must-see destinations. However, it surprised me with its variety and versatility. The old part has charm but it is overshadowed by the ever-changing skyline. The contemporary art had appeal and you have to hand it to the city’s PR machine for the variety of their attractions now on offer. They are trying hard to promote the city and it is worth a look as it is so close to Amsterdam which remains the No 1 tourist trap.

GETTING THERE: By EasyJet to Schiphol, Amsterdam, and then by train to Rotterdam (around 35 mins). It could not be easier as the train station buts onto the airport. The station at Rotterdam is in the heart of the city.

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