VIRGIN TAKE A BOW FOR YOUR BREAKFAST

Pix courtesy of Virgin Trains:
IT’S 7.05am and chirpy catering assistant Chris offers a warming cuppa and recites the breakfast menu on the Virgin train heading south from Edinburgh. It’s the full English for me, but there is a wide alternative selection and, within minutes, the toast and tea arrived.
Fruit juice followed and the main event was not far behind, delivered by silver service. The fried egg is perched on top of a hash brown and two rashers of bacon. Accompanying it is a dainty black pudding, full of flavour, by the way.
Alternatives included scrambled egg and cereal. It’s a perfect way to start the day as the darkness gives way to light as we race through the Scottish countryside at around 100mph. The view was uplifting, so was the breakfast experience and full marks to Virgin as the service and food was first class.
Food on the move appears one of the key promotional thrusts as train companies attempt to encourage potential business and leisure customers out of their cars and onto the tracks. Long-haul, they are also vying with airlines for your custom on the main routes to Manchester, Birmingham and London.
And Virgin tick the right boxes. After a meeting in Lancashire I jumped on a train to London from Manchester. The menu boasted two hot dishes plus sandwiches.
I plumped for ox cheek, a rather unusual offering. It came in a rich gravy with new potatoes. They were a soggy disappointment but the cheeks – not a popular choice according to the staff - had bags of flavour. The main course was followed by a choice of cheeses. I plumped for Austrian smoked and a mile cheddar served with an oatcake and bread. The cheese was moist and flavoursome and it was washed down by a fruity red.
Both meals were thoroughly enjoyable and the speed of service also allowed me to get some urgent work done without having to worry about catching a snack on arrival.
Because of a lactose intolerance (can’t take dairy) I asked the attendant if the sauce on the ox cheek was unsuitable because of milk or cream content. He didn’t know. I gambled. Companies offering food should brief staff as people with allergies deserve to be accommodated.
East Coast have also recently launched free food for first class passengers. Their full English breakfast menu also included tea, toast, and fruit juice. Sadly, the toast has been cold on the two occasions I’ve had breakfast, and the chef doesn’t do fried eggs, only scrambled. That’s a major blow, particularly for somebody with a lactose deficiency.
And the offering doesn’t, on the occasions I’ve travelled, match the standard of Virgin. I actually travelled back from London on the afternoon East Coast service. We were quickly offered a choice of sandwiches. Salmon and cucumber or egg accompanied by crisps and with the choice of a scone or cake or fruit.
The salmon was spot on and so was the cake. Later, biscuits were offered.
However, my wife travelled down to London on the following day from Edinburgh. She enjoyed the food but passengers joining after York were told: “We’ve run out.”
A first class service means just that. Passengers are paying a premium and the advertised service must be delivered. Incidentally, both Virgin and East Coast offer a free wi-fi service for First Class. East Coast have just upgraded theirs but it didn’t work for me for most of my journey. Most frustrating.
So, what about other operators. I regularly use the TransPennine Express from Edinburgh to Manchester. First class food on the go here is normally a packet of sandwiches. The bread is normally sliced and limp and the filling is a cheese slice and egg and cress plus a piece of normally extremely palatable cake.
The CrossCountry food I’ve sampled recently has been, to put it mildly, poor. My first experienced was a vegetable hot pot. Never again. I’ve subsequently been offered unappetising sandwiches (cheese slices again) which do little more than fill a hole.
So, take a bow Virgin. You are flavour of the month with me but East Coast coming up fast.

ITALIAN WITH ATMOSPHERE

Tricolos
36-37 Newborough
Scarborough
North Yorkshire
Y011 1NF
01723 367842
www.tricolos.co.uk
Open 7 nights a week
Mondays/Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday: 4pm till 9.30pm
Friday/Saturday: 4pm till 10.30pm
Sunday: 4pm till 9.30pm

Scarborough in high season. Seats in restaurants are in short supply and a quality Italian, on this occasion, was a necessity for a party of seven.
We asked around and up popped the name of Tricolos. We took a gamble and it paid off.
Everybody loved it and, so much in fact, that we’ll be back in the North Yorkshire resort next year and where are we most likely to visit? Yes, Tricolos.
Why? Because everybody was more than satisfied with the food and they all loved the atmosphere.
That’s not surprising given that the restaurant has been established since 1977. Then, Mike, Dennis and Ronnie Jaconelli converted their family ice cream parlour into a pizza restaurant.
They wanted to appeal to all ages and the formula is obviously as popular today as it was 34 years ago.
The restaurant is now under the directorship of John and Nicola Senior and Tricoilos serves innovative Italian food in a friendly setting.
Fitting for a seaside resort, and for an Italian restaurant, children are important.
The town centre restaurant boasts a little monkeys menu including, colouring sheets, crayons and a lolly exchange for a clean plate.
There are high chairs and a free baby food heating service to make mum and dad’s visit as hassle free as possible.
We had a mum-to-be in our party and she loved it along with the six other adults. So, what did we have?
A mixture of food. My steamed mussels with garlic, onions, white wine with homemade bread was spot on.
The bruschetta, shared by several, was complemented on. They were chargrilled topped with tomatoes and red onion marinaded in olive oil, garlic and fresh basil.
The garlic bread really was mouth-watering and well above average. In fact, everybody had a taste, it was that good.
And there were no complaints about the tomato and mozzarella salad.
As to mains, the classic calzone was huge. It was stuffed with ham, mushrooms, onions, spinach, mozzarella and topped with olive oil and Napoli sauce. Pete loved it.
My rare sirloin steak was perfect and it came with onion rings, sauté button mushrooms and roast tomatoes. Superb.
Others had lasagne di Bologna and the pene Toscana, chargrilled chicken and bacon, sauté mushrooms and garlic in a creamy tomato sauce topped with mozzarella cheese and finished in the oven, was packed with flavour.
No room for sweets here and we were ready for bed after a walk along the bay to our hotel.

ITIHAAS: QUALITY ON A PLATE

Itihaas
17-19 Eskbank Road
Dalkeith
Midlothian EH22 1HD
0131 663 9800

Open seven days: noon to 2pm and 5pm to 11.30pm
www.itihaasrestaurant.com

MATIN Kahn (pictured second left with his staff) is hands-on at Itihaas, and it shows. He greeted guests for lunch in his suit but admitted that he had been supervising in the kitchen at preparation from 10am.
The 80-cover restaurant is a family affair. His late father was inspirational and his two sons, Hujib and Habibur, are part of the 12-strong staff.
It’s a tight knit team at the beautifully presented, multi-award winning Bangladeshi restaurant.
And it is extremely popular. However, every customer is treated individually and it is no surprise to learn that Itihaas was Scotland’s best Bangladeshi restaurant in 2010 according to Spice Times.
Matin is also a recent recipient of five stars from TripAdvisor. The certificates are proudly displayed in the entrance.
His four chefs are Bangladeshi natives and the restaurant’s reputation brings customers from as far afield as Fife, the city of Edinburgh and all over the Lothians. This is a success story built on hard work and customer care.
All dishes are cooked to order. That was evident in my selection. The vegetarian pakora was served with a small salad. So often, salads are limp, but this was fresh and crisp.
Four sauces, all with their own sharp taste, including a tart but wonderful lime chutney, accompanied the dish.
On to the mains. Matin presented a selection to showcase what his chefs can do and we were not disappointed.
Each had a distinctive taste but none was overpowering. The chicken sag was moist and the spinach cooling.
The Bombay potato was memorable. The potato didn’t collapse on touch and the sauce was packed with flavour.
However, the undoubted star was the lamb Karat Gosh. It was beautifully cooked and the sweetness worked well with the sensational sauce.
Sometimes nan bread can be disappointing, but this was perfect and the pilau rice? Wonderfully aromatic and great to taste.
Itihaas source as much of their food as possible locally. Matin prides himself in only buying only the best meat and fish available.
The restaurant was busy but the slick staff never appear hassled. Situated prominently near the centre of the Midlothian town, is beautifully presented.
Flowers adorn tables covered by crisp linen tablecloths. The cutlery was spotless.
Itihaas enjoys a healthy take-away trade and also provides function catering but a visit to the restaurant is worthwhile.
Frankly, it would be hard to beat the value and my visit underlined what many had said to me. Itihaas is a gem.
Matin says: “When you come here you are in my home.” It was my first visit and I felt at ease. I’ll be back.

NO BONES TO PICK WITH CAFE FISH

Cafe Fish
15 North West Circus Place
Edinburgh
EH3 6SX
T: 0131 225 4431
Open: Seven days from 10am (for coffees and pastries)
From 12 noon with a lunch time and all-day menu
From 6pm for dinner (last orders at 9.30pm)

THE tiny cactus sitting next to the salt and pepper on each table was quirky and spoke volumes for the management of Cafe Fish. Simply, it summed up the attention to detail.
Everything has been thought out, from the decor to what appears on the plate. Cafe Fish can’t be faulted.
The restaurant was first established in Edinburgh’s now trendy old port at Leith in the spring of 2009. News of its quality spread fast and it quickly became a place to visit.
Richard Muir was so strong in his belief that the project would work near the centre of Scotland’s Capital that he took a leap of faith and moved to affluent Stockbridge.
His chosen location is in a former bank and the 1930’s interior features some stunning art deco work, including wonderful wood and marble floors.
An aluminium oyster bar is a prominent feature and it is complemented by aluminium tables. Some could consider this cold, but we felt it oozed class and cleanliness.
The move meant overheads increased, but so did the footfall exposure for this superb establishment. Cafe Fish now enjoys a prominent position near one of Edinburgh’s leading inner-city villages, Stockbridge.
The 65-cover restaurant (with an outside terrace for 18) is open all day, seven days, catering for a cross section, from mums with prams to discerning diners. It is busy, a testament to its quality.
Locally sourced fish and shellfish is key to this project. Even the bread is specially-selected, locally.
Speak to Mr Muir and he will tell you exactly who supplied your pan roasted sea bass or trout and the menu changes to suit what is available.
Cafe Fish is chic but not stuffy and part of that informality is having part of the kitchen on view to diners.
You can watch your meal being constructed before serving. Once again, attention to detail.
Head chef Stuart Lynch has been in charge since last August and his enthusiastic team are anxious to please.
What’s more, they have recruited a Japanese sushi trained and qualified chef, adding a welcome extra touch as well as providing another PR outlet.
Business is brisk. Weekends are heavily booked but weekday business is 70 per cent walk-up, underpinning the superb choice of location.
Cafe Fish is also in demand for groups of between 12 and 18, but don’t worry. The group area is discreetly tucked away at the back of the restaurant.
So, what about the food. It’s a deliciously small menu but with something for everybody, including vegetarian.
Pam opened with Cafe Fish cakes with citrus mayo. The delicate flavours made this a joy.
My selection was grilled queenies (Queen scallops) with Pernod and garlic butter. The dish was beautifully presented and the taste was divine. What’s more, the dressing on the salad was light and just right for the delicate scallops.
Alternatives were cured salmon, beetroot, orange and radish or wild duck terrine, dried plum compote and sour dough toast, Inverawe smoked salmon pate with sour dough toast, or pear, rocket, Gorgonzola, truffle with hazelnut dressing.
On to the main. Shetland blueshell mussels, coconut, chilli, coriander and chips or pan-seared sea bream, aubergine masala, coriander chutney and pilau rice were appealing.
So was the option of gnocci, wild mushroom, sage, onion with parmesan reggiano.
However, Pam picked the Cafe Fish and chips with crushed peas and tartare sauce. We were both curious to see what the chef could do with a well-loved, simple dish.
We’ll, it was worth waiting for. The fish was beautifully cooked, the batter superb, the crushed peas were exquisite and the chips were to die for. Yes, I stole one and the taste, with added sea salt, was superb.
My selection was roast North Atlantic cod, Toulouse sausage and cannellini beans cassoulet with garlic and parsley. The flavour flooded out, to coin a phrase, and the beans and sausage worked well with the cod.
There are other options. For example, Donegal oysters or 28-day aged Orkney rib-eye steak, with Cafe de Paris butter and chips, but they have a supplement.
The overall reaction. Super restaurant and undoubtedly worth a visit, particularly at £22 for two courses.
Oh, and Sunday lunch has just started (to December). Three courses £19.50 including a bottle of wine between two. I’ll be in the queue.
What’s more, and again attention to detail, if you are in a hurry then they are happy to fit you in, and Cafe Fish are delighted to cope with diners with allergies.

LIVINGSTON'S: A TESTAMENT TO QUALITY

LIVINGSTON’S
52 High Street
Linlithgow
01506 846565
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk
Open: Tuesday to Saturday (inclusive): 12-2pm: 6-9pm
Michelin Listed
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk

THE ancient town of Linlithgow, 20 miles from Edinburgh, is a tourist destination with its outstanding palace, the birthplace of James V and Mary, Queen of Scots.
We hadn’t been there for some time and, luckily, the rain had stopped allowing us to stroll along the loch and along the bustling High Street to the the family-owned and Michelin-listed Livingston’s Restaurant.
It sits in the shadow of the palace and is a hidden gem. Derek Livingston and his two chefs pay great attention to detail. He even checked my previous reviews to see what I liked and he popped out to buy soya milk just in case I required some.
He took over, after a spell in the kitchen, from his father and mother, Ronald and Christine, who started their restaurant in the early 1990s.
A testimony to their success is a regular clientele from a wide area and this restaurant has thrived in a highly-competitive market despite not having a frontage on the main street.
Livingston's is tucked away down a close. The secluded situation, with a view onto a garden, adds to its attraction.
So does its policy of using local producers. Take the amushe bouche. Moist haggis, wonderfully seasoned, sitting on a bed of blitzed turnip with a gossamer thin potato slice balanced delicately on top. Source? A local farmer from a village two miles away.
Tables in the original stone building, which has an extension into the garden, are candle-lit. The rich red furnishings add to the ambience, but there is nothing fussy about Livingston’s. It is a place where you can enjoy the food and chill out.
The menu has four choices for starters, mains and desserts. Ample, in my opinion, and, if you have diet or allergy concerns, then don’t worry, Derek and his team are well-versed in producing an alternative.
So, what was on offer? Summer vegetable broth, pan seared scallops, Stornoway black pudding beignet, spiced cauliflower puree and apple pickle, ballontine of rabbit saddle, purple carrot ribbons, carrot cones, carrot gel and petit leaves or warm fillet of West Coast mackerel, smoked aubergine tapenade, basil puree, lentil and radish dressing.
All mouth-watering, but I homed in on pan seared scallops. They were beautifully presented and cooked, and the black pudding was devine.
On to mains. Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, daube croquette, pomme rosti, celeriac and mustard puree, silverskin onions and watercress, roast saddle of Perthshire lamb, braised shoulder, fondant potato, pea puree, pea salsa verde, sous vide tail of monkfish, wam salad of samphine and seasonal greens, red wine poached salsify or roast breast of poussin, confit leg of tortellini, ficasse of mushroom, pancetta and baby leek and Albufera sauce.
Difficult choice. However, Pam’s Aberdeen Angus was superb and the accompanying attractions, particularly the silverskin onions, worked perfectly.
The contrast in my lamb selection was interesting. Both were beautifully cooked and the tasted sublime, but the saddle was perfection, moist and sweet and the taste lingered.
The pre-pudding was an unexpected delight. Carrot cake which melted in the mouth. Now, on to the puddings. Once again, four choices were available, Cranachan, Turkish delight, strawberries and cream or a selection of Scottish cheeses with homemade oatcakes and chutney.
Pam plumped for strawberries and cream. Actually, it was much, much more than that. The strawberry brulee, basil gel, macerated strawberries and fromage blanc ice cream was strikingly served with dainty meringues. She was disappointed with the taste. Conversly, I had a spoonfull and loved it. We both felt the accompanying meringues were spongy.
My Turkish delight comprised chocolate ganache, Turkish jelly, rose sorbet and candied pistachio. The rose sorbet was tart and I felt the rich chocolate overpowered the rest of the dish.
By that time, night had drawn in and the full effect of the candle-lit atmosphere of the restaurant – which can take 60 covers - became fully apparent.
Coffee was served (with sugar cubes and a cute little box with sweetners inside, lovely touch) with Mrs Livingston’s home-made tablet, one piece normal and the other coconut. It was exquisite and an ideal finishing touch.
Livingston’s deserve praise and it’s no wonder that they have won a number of accolades including a Macallan Out of Town Restaurant Award, two AA rosettes, plus a listing in the respected Michelin Guide.
The restaurant, and Linlithgow, are well-worth a visit. Make no mistake, Derek will look after you.

HAMILTON'S: IDEALLY SITUATED

Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen
16-18 Hamilton Place
Edinburgh
EH3 5AU
0131 226 4199
www.hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk
Open seven days: 9am to 1am

Hamilton’s was launched three years ago. The object was to give the Stockbridge locals a home from home and others a destination where the service was friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the confidence that only fair-trade and organic suppliers were used in dishes, charged at a reasonable price.
It is situated in Edinburgh’s affluent Stockbridge district which was originally an outlying village incorporated into the Capital city in the 19th century.
Stockbridge is my favourite part of Scotland’s Capital city and still has a village feel with quality local shops – interspersed with a number of charity stores - including an up-market butcher shop, where you can buy game birds (no jokes please), plus a superb cheese shop (the smell is exquisite for some nauseating for others), plus a number of popular restaurants and bars.
It also boasts the Water of Leith, with a much-used walkway, running through it with Hamilton’s ideally positioned. The establishment is branded as an all-purpose venue. The web-site blurb reads: “Hamilton’s is a place where mothers meet after dropping the kids off at school, business meetings roll into lunch and locals meet with destination diners for food, wine, cocktails and everything else in between. Hamilton’s seem to have something to offer everyone at different times of the day.”
And, let’s not overlook this point, it is busy. The management accommodated us on a Saturday night, an evening when they also had a 30th birthday party and the bar was packed, so was the restaurant.
We were privileged to sit at a table at the front, overlooking the Water of Leith walkway, however that backfired. Where do drinkers at the bar go for a cigarette? Immediately in front of where we were sitting. OK we didn’t get the fumes, but we were gawked at by punters having a drag.
We couldn’t fault the service. It was slick despite it being a full-house. And the extensive menu undoubtedly provided something for everybody.
It was inventive as well as having tried and tested. The small dishes provided seven choices including Hamilton’s own fish cakes with spring onion and mixed leaf salad and aioli, asparagus and watercress soup as well as crispy chicken with sweet chilli dipping sauce or pan fried chorizo with sherry, lemon, chilli and tomatoes.
There was also the alternative of four to share including nachos and antipasti.
Pam picked roast red pepper and chorizo toasts. It was tasty but pricy at £5.95 and my steamed mussels with white wine and garlic – I opted out of the cream – was an ample portion. The sauce, however, lacked real bite.
On to the mains. There were 11 large dishes on offer including a Scottish beef burger, a vegetarian option of roast red pepper and saffron risotto or seared yellow fin tuna with charred summer vegetable salad and basil pesto.
Pam selected organic chicken breast with black pudding, Jersey Royal potatoes, fresh lemon, sun blush tomato and watercress, cost £11.95.
My pick? I went for fish again, marinated sea bass with roast sweet potato, baby spinach and red pepper sauce. Charge £11.95.
We were advised to go for sides – an extra charge. Cauliflower cheese was £3.95 and charred local asparagus came in at £2.95.
And the end-product? The chicken, which came with the skin on, was moist but the black pudding greasy and the Jersey Royals were devoid of much taste. The cheese sauce on the cauliflower was tasty but did not appear to have impregnated the vegetable. Verdict: disappointing.
My sea bass arrived perched on top of the roast sweet potato – lovely taste and good mix – and spinach, but the red pepper sauce, apart from being eye-catching, also had a fine flavour. Nothing overpowered the delicate flavour of the fish. The asparagus – recommended – was ideal as an accompaniment.
We opted out of the various sweet options and left, but not before visiting the toilets. It is difficult to keep on top of things on a busy Saturday, but one has to take account of paying guests and the toilets were not as one would have liked for this type of establishment.
Also, cleanliness in the dining room must be of paramount importance. My table top was sticky and so was the one opposite. (Yes, I did inspect it. Sad, but the things you have to do as a reviewer).
You don’t expect that in what is being marketed as an up-market establishment.
My overall impression is that Hamilton’s is trying to cover all bases. The major appeal, in my view, is for the younger set with a disposable income. One look at the web site - their home page has blaring music – indicates that. It is packed with pictures of young people enjoying themselves, plus an offer or two.
I’ve got a family of three, the youngest one is nearly 21, and a business student at a local university. He might appreciate the hustle and bustle, but discerning diners, I believe, like a little more. Talking, an integral part of going out for a meal, was a tad difficult because of the noise.

MOSAICA: A HIDDEN GEM

Mosaica
Unit COO5
The Chocolate Factory
Clarendon Road
Wood Green
London N22 6XJ
Open: Thuesday to Friday noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Saturday: 7pm to 10pm
Sunday: 1pm to 4pm
020 8889 2400
www.mosaicarestaurants.com

Mosaica has been around for over 10 years, where have you been? That’s the opening line on the web page.
Answer: trying to find the restaurant. It’s not easy. The high fence, seemingly locked gates and ten-foot high brick walls fooled us.
So did the fact that you have to walk past a huge sign displaying a raft of companies and then speak to a receptionist.
That said, it was 100 per cent worth the navigational angst. I have one word to describe this: magnificent.
Sure, that is a huge compliment but head chef Steve Goode and his team, who took over the highly-rated restaurant last December have a gem here.
One of their mantras is: You’re only as good as your last meal. We’ll I’ll be back as my first was thoroughly enjoyable.
The laid-back atmosphere, decor – loved the eclectic mix of furniture and the candle grease dripping down the walls – and the slick service (including quality explanations of the dish and ingredients and the flexibility for dietary needs) were admirable.
Their web site mirrors the style in the restaurant created in the basement of a former chocolate factory. I quote: “Whether you prefer jeans or the little black number, you'll feel right at home in our laid back New York loft shabby chic.” Spot on, the mix on the night we dined was interesting.
Their food is sourced from London’s two world-famous markets, Smithfield and Billingsgate.
Another quote: “The meats in particular almost have to come with a birth certificate, we have to know the parents names. The fish is still in rigor mortis stage when picked up at 5am from E London.”
So, to the food, once cooked. The freshly baked bread – served with olive oil dip and balsamic – was a hint of what was to come. Individual is the best word to describe it.
The house style is British seasonal produce with hints of European eccentricities and the menu is changed daily.
Sath plumped, after much debate, for foie gras with red onion chutney, cornichons and toast. My pick was oak smoked Scottish salmon with pickles and black pepper.
Mouth-watering other options included parma ham with feta and lavender infused honey, char grilled asparagus with parmy (Parmaison) and leaves, bufala caprase salad, roasted Portobello mushroom with melted blue cheese or grilled Brixham sardines with gremolata.
Verdict: foie gras was sublime, rich and packed with flavour. Sath said he’d never tasted better. I had a slice and I’ll never eat supermarket foie gras again.
I’m Scottish and like salmon. The portion was ample and the pickles added extra bite. A good dish.
On to the main. Salt March lamb rump was Sath’s selection. It came with parsley mash and greens.
I plumped for rare old Gloucester ribeye with Kenyans (green beans). It was supposed to come with garlic mash but the mash has a dairy input. They instantly suggested sauté potatoes.
We could have tried Cajun loch salmon with truffle crushed potatoes and tenderstem, sword fish with chervil and butterbean broth, 21-hour roast pork bells with mustard mash and red cabbage, goats cheese, lemon and pine nut risotto, grilled seabass with fettuccine and cockles buerre noisette or Reg Johnston’s chicken with chorizo potatoes and wilted spinach. Innivative, interesting and enterprising.
We didn’t have room for pudding but the selection included English cheeses, Leagrams yoghurt with fresh mango, orange, honey and pistachio,
profiteroles with Belgian chocolate sauce, sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and ice cream plate (banana, deluche de leche and hazelnut).
Tempting yes but I have to watch my waist line. Overall, this could not be faulted apart from the jus with the rib eye. In my opinion, it didn’t quite complement the meat but both the lamb and beef were cooked beautifully.
The Mosaica also has a decent selection of real ales and foreign lagers as well as an extensive wine list.
They do take-away at lunchtime as well as sit-in. It’s busy so book but it is well worth a visit.

BORROWDALE GATES: A CLASSY RETREAT

Borrowdale Gates Hotel
Grange in Borrowdale
Keswick
Cumbria CA12 5UQ
017687 77204
www.borrowdale-gates.com

Colin and Joy Harrison thought about retirement before spotting another business opportunity on their doorstep.
They had watched the Borrowdale Gates Hotel climb to a peak and then slip backwards and the couple stepped in to buy the property three years ago.
The husband and wife team have spent a small fortune redesigning and refurbishing the three-star establishment.
Every detail has been considered, even the colour of the tiles and the matching bedspread.
Dressing tables have been specially made by local craftsmen – yes you can see the perfect join – and the effect in some of the luxury bedrooms is stunning.
They compare favourably with five-star establishments I’ve visited in recent years, but few have the view that guests at the Borrowdale Gates have from their bedrooms.
The 25-bed property is tucked away in a breathtaking valley at one end of Derwentwater, around 20 miles from the busy M6, and a minute from the quaint Lakeland village of Grange.
You leave the twisty main road and drive over a hump backed bridge before arriving at the spacious car park which nestles beneath the atmospheric Castle Crag and High Spy peaks.
The minute you walk into the hotel, which was originally built by a philanthropist in 1860, you feel at home.
That was particularly appreciated by me as I had just spent three days at the National Conference for the Federation of Small Businesses in the heart of Liverpool. Peace and tranquillity was what I needed.
A shower proceeded a quiet drink in the spacious dining-room while we ordered from the extensive menu. There was no pressure.
Head chef Chris Standhaven, who formerly worked in Michelin-star establishments, uses local produce, whenever possible.
There were eight starters. Roast tomato and basil soup, smoked salmon platter, chicken liver parfait, mango melon and feta cheese salad, duck, rabbit and ham terrine, warm goats cheese courgette, duck spring roll or seared scallops and white pudding.
Pam selected the chicken liver parfait which arrived with marmalade onions, a tasty dish.
I picked the scallops with white pudding after being was assured the pudding was local. The pair mixed well.
On to the main. There was an extensive choice including char grilled Cumbrian steak, pan fried monk fish tail, chorizo and bean cassoulet with tomato and basil sauce, honey-roasted Goosnargh duck breast, pan fried fillet of sea bass and, for vegetarians, taglitella Florentine with asparagus, free-range poached eggs and Parmesan cheese.
Pam picked lamb. The flavour was appreciated. My Cartmel Valley loin of venison on a bed of pickled cabbage was well-presented but lacked bite but the crispy pancetta helped lift the dish.
I’m addicated to Bakewell tart and there was only one choice for me in the sweet selection. Sorry chef. The tart required a lift.
Pam picked lemon mousse with shortbread. The mousse was excellent. However, the shortbread lacked flavour.
Coffee/tea and petit fours are included in the meal package and, once again, the pastry items were lacking.
Our room, with en-suite, was extremely comfortable and the view the following morning was memorable, low clouds shrouding surrounding peaks with vegetation awakening from the winter chill.
I went for a stroll before breakfast. Locals nodded good morning as they walked their dogs and the sound of birds and a local river, flushed with rain, crashing over stones, was heavenly.
Breakfast was superb. A wide selection of fruit and cereal followed by a choice of full Cumberland, fish and egg dishes.
When in Rome. I picked the full Cumberland. No complaints. The sausages were packed with flavour and the smoked bacon was superb. The black pudding was just right and the mushrooms – large ones - were a welcome addition.
A special local tea, which was most refreshing, boosted the meal and we dined overlooking the valley watching a selection of birds pick at several feeders carefully placed for residents to view.
New bedrooms are being added and the lounge has been updated. The bar, tucked discretely at one end of the lounge/dining room, has been replaced and the restaurant upholstered.
More improvements are promised over the next two to three years with a new wing set to be ready in January 2012.
Colin’s clientele mainly comes from a 15 million population cited in a three-hour drive radius which includes Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Liverpool and Manchester.
The Borrowdale Gates is building a reputation. In fact, many clients make regular trips, including a customer from America.
They love the laid back, homely feel. What’s more, they obviously appreciate Colin’s no wedding or function rule. This establishment is for residents plus a discerning drop-in trade.
He lives six miles away in picturesque Bassenthwaite and claims his drive to work is among the best in the world. I did the run along the south side of Derwentwater and it is stunning.
Colin and Joy aim for quality. For example, his carpets are hand-picked by Joy from a leading High Street retailer. Joy designs the decor, not a specialist.
And the couple, who have won a silver award with the English Tourist Board for the hotel, are not concerned about moving to four or five star, more about making you feel at home and well looked after. They and their excellent staff did just that.

KONG: 25 YEARS OLD AND GOING STRONG

Mr Kong
21 Lisle Street
London
WC2H 7BA
020 7437 7341
Monday to Saturday: noon to 3am
Sunday: noon to 2am
CAPTION: external view
Chinatown, London. It’s a must visit and a great place to be but, as a tourist, your eye line is bombarded with lights, sounds and restaurant signs.
Just where do you go to eat? OK, you look at menus posted outside various establishments.
You can salivate at the array of duck in one and also view at the various testimonials in the windows of others.
But, sadly, that’s not guaranteed to provide a mouth-watering winner.
Sometimes, glitz is not best. I’ve tried several establishments in Chinatown on business trips and the quality of food has varied.
Word-of-mouth works in business and it was spot-on with Mr Kong. We loved it.
If you want a quiet meal, forget it. If you want top drawer service, Forget it. If you want good cooking, atmosphere and a piping hot food then Mr Kong is the place for you.
The menu has something for everybody, from plain, to vegetarian to exotic. We chewed over steamed razor clam with glass noodles and garlic of fried cuttlefish garlic sprout and Balechan sauce.
However, the consensus was to go for crispy aromatic Szechuan duck as a starter. It was cooked in its own marinade and then crispy fried. It arrived with wheaten pancakes, spring onion and cucumber accompanied by hoy sin sauce. The meat was tender and the food came piping hot. A great choice.
I’m not a lover of sweet and sour pork, but Jennifer is. The sauce was packed with flavour but not overpowering of the meat. I pinched a bit and enjoyed it.
Sath and I plumped for crispy chilli beef. The beef was beautifully cooked and the sauce was just right.
A steaming bowl of rice accompanied the dish and nothing was left over.
The place was packed on a midweek night. And, judging by the noise, and the happy faces, we weren’t the only ones to have enjoyed a great night.
It’s the second time that Jen and Sath have been to Mr King’s. They’re just back from a trip to Hong Kong and Thailand so they have some experience of traditional Chinese cooking in the Far East.
They enjoy Mr Kong. Trust me, it will be up there when we consider meeting in Central London.

SLOW BOAT FROM RATHO

Canal cruising
from The Bridge Inn
27 Baird Road
Ratho
EH28 8RA
0131 333 1320
www.bridgeinn.com
Open seven days

It’s a bitter night. The thermometer had plunged to minus 7C. It’s been snowing and the roads are treacherous. Not the best start to an evening and the lure of a dinner by the fire was strong.
However, we made the trip to the canal cruise from The Bridge Inn at Ratho and came away warmed by the experience.
It’s over 30 years since Pam and I had been on a similar cruise from The Bridge Inn situated in a village on the west side of Edinburgh.
That cruise was on Midsummer Night and was also memorable as we were stuck in the mud several times and we arrived home at 2.30am.
On this occasion the skipper also had problems. He had to back-up and turn on the power to break the ice but it was, once again, something we’ll not forget.
The attentive staff made everybody welcome aboard the 36-capacity craft and the Pride of Belhaven chugged its way up the Union Canal.
The floodlight on top of the boat lit up the banks and it was somewhat surreal as the ice cracked and the barge slowly made its way up the canal whose banks were covered in thick snow.
Thankfully, it was cosy inside the spacious cabin and the diners who called off because of the inclement weather were the ones who missed out.
I’d eaten the day before at 125mph on the East Coast main line train returning to Edinburgh from London. This was totally different.
The leisurely pace of the barge, in contrast, allows one to chill out and the smell of the food from the galley increased the experience.
Starters were considered as an accordionist played in the background, a nice touch for this Saturday night cruise on the eve of St Andrew’s Day.
Cock a leekie soup, partan bree topped with seared scallops or mini beef and haggis olives with red onion marmalade were the options.
Pam went traditional and the soup proved a winner. Piping hot and full of flavour.
Spot on for a cold night.
My beef and haggis olives were most enjoyable. The seasoning in the haggis was just right and the cold red onion marmalade added to the dish.
We then had four options for main course. Braised Borders lamb shank stuck out for me as a nap selection. I’ve savoured this dish at home and abroad and I was keen to see how this would match up.
Pam had more of a selection quandary. The homemade vegetarian haggis and char grilled aubergine parcel, wild mushrooms and tarragon sauce looked mouth-watering.
However, it eventually came down to a straight choice between skirlie stuffed chicken supreme with haggis tattie dauphinoise, whisky and Arran mustard cream or trio of Scottish salmon with orange zest and caper crème fraiche.
Pam loathes whisky and was veering towards the salmon but, eventually, chicken won and her fears over the sauce were misplaced. It was mild and added to the overall taste of the dish.
My lamb was wonderful. The meat fell off the bone and the red wine and herb sauce was perfect, bringing out the sweetness in the lamb but not overpowering the dish.
We both loathe soggy vegetable and on-board chef Lee Skelton must be complemented in producing broccoli, carrots and green beans which had just the right amount of crunch.
Thankfully, the staff gave us time to digest the first two courses before asking for our pudding selection.
Wild berry cranachan with shortbread was a possible or trio of Scottish cheeses but we both decided that warm spiced rhubarb strudel with ice cream was ideal for a cold night.
The sharp rhubarb taste was complimented by cinnamon, a brilliant mixture, however the double whammy on the taste buds did tend to negate the flavour of the vanilla ice cream and the pastry was a tad disappointing.
Coffee and mints followed. I always feel it is bad policy for a restaurant to just offer one cup. It seems so stingy and we were not disappointed here. A second was offered and it was accepted gratefully as we were about to disembark into the freezing weather.
The cruise took around three hours and I’d have no hesitation in recommending it, not just for the experienced but for the food.
It can’t be easy cooking in a restricted space and without all the equipment you would have on land. Take a bow Lee.
Rachel and Graham Bucknall took over at The Bridge Inn earlier in 2010. They have lived in the village for several years and are desperate to see the well-known venue climb up the culinary charts.
Long-term plans include turning the clock back with the decor – not before time – to make The Bridge Inn once again a country local.
They also, when possible, use produce from their garden including apples from the orchard for their apple pie and pork from their Saddleback pigs.
Plans are already laid to extend the garden and grow more produce. More power to their elbow.
The are working hard to re-launch the venue and their energy is to be commended. So is a night cruising, even in sub-zero temperatures.

HEAVENLY FOOD AT ANGELS

FLAIR: Chef Paul Whitehouse

Angels with Bagpipes
343 High Street
Royal Mile
Edinburgh
EH1 1PW
0131 220 1111
www.angelswithbagpipes.co.uk
Open seven days

EDINBURGH’S atmospheric Royal Mile houses an eclectic mix of historical attractions, tourist shops, restaurants, eateries and pubs.
During the world-famous Edinburgh Festival it is a major focal point for tourists and street entertainers.
The street also is also at the centre of Scotland’s legal system, being the home of both the High Court of Justiciary and the Court of Session.
It’s no surprise then that Marina Crolla picked the location, but the restaurant faces stiff competition.
A name can be crucial and she admitted agonising over Angels with Bagpipes. It arrived after spotting an angel during a walk through nearby St Giles Cathedral, the High Church of Edinburgh, which is directly opposite the 90-cover restaurant. Divine intervention?
Marina also thought long and hard over the key appointment of a head chef and she eventually recruited award-winning Paul Whitecross. Under his guidance, this heavenly restaurant is going from strength to strength.
Attention to detail is evident and he dishes are stunningly-presented. Paul specialises in using produce from Scotland’s extensive food larder then providing an Italian twist, a tribute to Marina’s homeland.
He doesn’t just pay lip service to dietary considerations. I’m lactose intolerant and he obliged in style.
My three courses were subtly altered to provide maximum flavour without diminishing the visual experience.
Seared Orkney scallops, Stornoway black pudding and pea puree (instead of parsnip, because of my diet) was eye-catching and mouth-watering. The scallops were cooked to perfection but my one criticism would be the sauce which was a little tart.
My main was roast rump of Ross-shire lamb, pancetta cabbage and white beans. Artistically a delight and the cherry tomatoes added a welcome extra colour and flavour to a superb dish.
Unassuming Paul saved the best to last. His raspberry soufflé was sublime. It arrived with apple sorbet (succulent Granny Smiths cut quickly with a touch of lemon to maintain colour and speedily frozen). The beautiful dish arrived with a tiny Kilner-type jar packed with raspberry puree – simply wonderful.
The meal was a triumph of innovation and flair by the award-winning chef who has tickled the taste buds of the late, great operatic tenor, Pavarotti, and international film stars Kevin Costner and Samuel L Jackson, plus the owner of car giants Ferrari.
My wife Pam was effusive in her praise of the busy, up-market restaurant. You feel comfortable and looked after by the accommodating team at Angels with Bagpipes.
So, what was her selection? The starter choice included lentil soup, a traditional Scottish dish, with unique twist, shaved chestnuts and truffle oil.
She could also have picked braised pork with white pudding and apple and creamed goats cheese with picked beetroot, apple and balsamic.
Pam also swithered over oak smoked Scottish salmon or terrine of chicken and foie gras but decided to wait for the main.
Her selection was roast cod, smoked haddock and chive potato scone, parsley oil and citrus salsify. It was, once again, beautifully presented and a delight to taste, the flavours merging to provide a tremendous dish.
Alternatives included rib eye of Angus beef with pesto plum tomato and garlic mushrooms, Highland loin of venison with pearl barley, turnip and bitter chocolate (correct) sauce, a risotto of butternut squash, sage and walnuts or pan fired sea bream, handpicked crab ravioli, creamed leeks and lemon butter sauce.
The extra payment for side dishes – buttered spinach at £3.50 and thin cut chips at £2.95 – grated, but that’s a personal thing and, of course, rates are high in the Royal Mile.
However, on to desserts. Pam’s choice was baked date and toffee sponge with puff candy ice cream, pistachio and banana. It could not be faulted.
Once again, the choice was difficult and it included apple and cinnamon crumble with green apple sorbet and a bitter chocolate mousse with passion fruit sorbet and caramel dusted popcorn. Mouth-watering.
Simply, Angels with Bagpipes is a gastronomic treat to be experienced. The hand-prepared main dishes (without sides which are ordered separately) come at a cost and ranged from £12.95 (risotto) to £20.95 (rib eye of Angus beef) on the night we were there, however, it is memorable.