CHOCK A BLOCK WITH NEW IDEAS

MyChocolate

Unit B1
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ

0207 269 5760

www.mychocolate.co.uk

 

SUNDAY afternoon. I’m walking out of Chancery Lane tube station heading into the unknown.

The destination is a course in chocolate making. I’m in unfamiliar territory. Yes, I enjoy cooking, but making chocolates? That’s a different world.

It is with trepidation that I make my way towards a factory unit in a side street. The co-ordinates are pressed and I am welcomed into a reception area. It is clinical and unnverving.

Within minutes I’m joined by around 24 people – and a guide dog – and we talk excitedly about the prospect.

Most are chocoholics. Many drool over the prospect of creating their own to have a ready supply to eat. Others crave the secrets of making chocolates to extend their culinary skills. All eulogise about chocolate. It seems a compulsion, an obsession. 

From my point of view there is only one other man, scary. We are ushered forward and walk down a flight of stairs into the basement and pick a seat. We make polite conversation and, thankfully, nobody seems to be an expert despite the fact that some seem to be accomplished cooks.

In strides Richard, our tutor. He explains the basics of the cocoa bean and we get to work.

We wash our hands, thoroughly, and then break up chocolate into a bowl. It is then whisked away for melting. When it returns and we get to work.

A chocolate biscuit is created using both plain and milk chocolate. It is simple, two tablespoons of plain chocolate and then a drizzle of milk chocolate.

After that, you could add a topping of coconut, hundreds and thousands or rose petals. No rules, design your own. However, the competitive nature of the delegates quickly became apparent so did the artistic skills, or lack of skills, of others.

We then split into teams to create chocolate balls with the addition of cream. This process is simple when you have an expert on hand.

But, boy does this process make a mess. I didn’t feel out of place as there was chocolate everywhere. Richard said the process would transport us back to childhood. He was so right.

Working in pairs, and against the clock, we filled a plastic piping bag – too difficult to wash chocolate from a muslin one, we were told - of the rich, dark mix.

Jenny, my partner for the exercise, then extracted the mix – about the size of a golf ball - onto the table and I rolled them in the cocoa, on the points of my fingers as the palm gives off too much heat.

Jenny cheated. Some of the chocolate didn’t make the mix. Temptation was strong and it ended up being eaten.

My grand-daughter would love this, I thought, as I rolled the chocolate and cream mix into balls and I dipped my imperfect chocolate shapes into the rich, dark liquid.

Removing them with a fork before then melted and without creating an almighty mess in an art. Much of the chocolate, I’m afraid, ended up on the table instead of the greaseproof paper.

But, we ended up bagging enough of our home-made chocolates to take them home as souvenirs. I forecast that they would not last long. They didn’t.

Everybody hugely enjoyed the experience, including the guide dog who lapped up all the scraps.

There were grand-dads, mums and daughters and parties of friends in our group and the excited chatter as we departed into the winter chill underlined how much participants had gained from the experience.

Me? Well, I’m determined to make some more. The effect is stunning and the effort minimal providing, of course, you adhere to simple principals. OK, my daughter just happened to mention what I had done to my grand-daughter and she wants to try. Surprise, surprise but a message for gran – be prepared for a mess in the kitchen.

The chocolate making workshops organised by MyChocolate are billed as an indulgent experience. They were for many on Sunday.

They are designed for corporate clients, team building or planning a hen party or for a gift experience and are run in London, Manchester and Brighton.

The two hours flew past. By the way, my chocolates didn’t last five minutes.

AL DENTE PUTS BITE ON TRADITION

Al Dente 139 Easter Road Edinburgh EH7 5QA 0131 652 1932 www.al-dente-restaurant.co.uk Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 Monday to Saturday 5.30-10 Closed: Sunday AL Dente is in the shadow of Easter Road, home of Scottish Premier League football side Hibernian who once entertained leading clubs, including Italian giants Juventus, in Europe. Those days – for anoraks among you Hibs played Juventus in the UEFA Cup in October and November 1974 – are long gone now as Hibs, who are currently riding high in the Scottish domestic league, have slipped down the European rankings. But the owners of Al Dente have taken on the challenge of creating the true Italian experience in one of Edinburgh’s less celebrated areas and lifting it high in the pecking order. The restaurant has a head start. As Tinelli’s, it build a solid reputation for good, authentic Italian food over the past 25 years. But Al Dente has new owners and is different. It claims to serve pure Italian food, unadulterated by cream or pre-cooked pasta, always fresh and delicious. The menu is not extensive but has items to satisfy most tastes. Duncan and I pondered while we enjoyed some olives. It proved difficult as this menu had twists. For example the antipasti selection included steamed mussels with orange fragrance and pie with smoked Apulia cheese and baked fennel au gratin. Eventually, Duncan plumped for baked figs topped with gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma ham. I eventually decided on cabbage dumplings with minced pork and mushrooms served on a bed of mashed chickpeas. The presentation was superb, particularly the figs. They were delicately wrapped with the ham which looked like a rose petal. And the taste was distinctive. My dumplings provided a mouth-watering surprise. The cabbage was a fine accompaniment to the distinctive minced pork and mushrooms. It was a clue to what was to come next. Al Dente’s food and surrounding is billed as being authentic of what one would expect in a traditional Italian restaurant. The surrounding, possibly, but not the food. The secondi underlined that. Once again, the small but interesting selection caused healthy debate. I was tempted by oven baked terrine of cod pie with leeks, olives, broccoli and tomatoes served topped with grated mashed potatoes. The sirloin steak stuffed with Parma ham and cheese with a porcini mushroom sauce served with roasted potatoes and vegetables was an attraction. Duncan eventually picked the house special pasta which came enveloped in a thick, tomato sauce. It was filling without being exceptional. My roulade of grilled swordfish steaks stuffed with pine nuts, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and raisins, served on a bed of barley and pepper with capers and anchovies was both eye-catching and innovative. The beautifully cooked fish – I was assured it was fresh from a local fishmonger – was complemented by the barley. Not a mixture I expected but nonetheless a welcome addition to my gastronomic experience and one I may try at home. Chef Graziano Spano sources produce locally and his menu will soon change for the winter. He stressed the concept of al dente cooking as being very important to the restaurant. Al Dente, means, literally on the tooth, and indicates a firmness of pasta texture, which is symptomatic of freshly cooked pasta. His style is individual and is worth experiencing. The busy restaurant – with around 20 covers – also hosts theme nights which are extremely popular. They are trying hard to build a clientele and I wish him well. He faces stiff competition not just from neighbours in Easter Road but nearby Leith, formerly a run-down area and now one bristling with restaurants and bars. The slick service, good atmosphere and attention to detail, with food allergies catered for, and vegetarian options available, make this cosy restaurant one to visit.

CASTLE TERRACE: DESERVES ATTENTION

THE CASTLE TERRACE RESTAURANT 33-35 Castle Terrace Edinburgh EH1 2EL 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 and 18.30 to 22.0 Closed Sunday and Monday TOM Kitchen formed a friendship with Dominic Jack when they were both young chefs working at the world-famous Gleneagles Hotel. Now, several years on, the pair have teamed up to create The Castle Terrace Restaurant experience. The name may be bland but this is more than made up for by the creativity of the cuisine. This is refinement redefined, sophistication without being stuffy and culinary flair at the leading edge, showcasing the finest ingredients from Scotland’s world-famous larder. The French-Scottish dishes have made this a haven for discerning diners and, since the restaurant opened in July 2010, it was won a number of awards including Restaurant of the Year and Most Innovative Restaurant. It is easy to see why. The visual appeal of the food blends with a fusion of flavours. What’s more, Castle Terrace take attention to detail to an exceptionally high level. They even created special menu to accommodate my lactose intolerance. It was so appealing that several of my companions were interested in considering my dishes rather than options on the regular menu. That attention to detail was evident as we chatted before lunch. Canapés arrived on individual wooden platters and were an indication of what was to come. The caper berry was a mouth-watering surprise and the black olives and pepper bruschetta had me seeking more. So, what was on offer on the three-course lunch menu? Three starters: freshly picked brown crab from Newhaven, served with mango, avocado and roasted red pepper or crispy Ayrshire pork belly served with figs and port or tartare of line caught mackerel from Eyemouth served with apple and ginger. They all sounded wonderful but I eventually plumped for the mackerel as I was anxious to see if Mr Jack had succeeded in fusing an oily fish with the strong flavour of ginger and the sweetness of the apple. It was certainly eye-catching but, sadly, I felt the flavours worked against each other. Others may differ. The chef’s creativity was, however, shown to its full with the main. Poached fillet of North Sea plaice, served with “pink fur apple” potatoes was stunning in concept and superb in taste. I’ll not spoil the effect, but this was not how chefs traditionally serve flatfish. Red-legged partridge from Tullybeagles Estate, served with cabbage, grapes, carrots and celery was another winner. My fellow diners enthused about it. Me? I’ve been terribly disappointed with hake dishes in the past but I was confident this time. The two tender roasted fillets of North Sea hake arrived on a bed of haricot beans and chorizo. Simple and effective to the eye, it was a delight to the palate. There were three options to finish: a seasonal fruit salad, a selection of sorbet or pistachio and coconut soufflé served with pineapple sorbet. It was an easy choice and the soufflé looked as good as it tasted. Mr Jack trained at Edinburgh’s Telford College. He then worked at the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel before moving up-market to a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris. He was headhunted to be Chef de Cuisine at the Swissôtel in Istanbul before returning to his hometown of Edinburgh to link up with Tom Kitchin at award-winning The Kitchin in Leith. Their passion and the restaurant’s philosophy - from nature to plate – is attracting a healthy clientele. The restaurant was busy and the relaxing atmosphere – with a subtle touch of tartan - added to the occasion. That attention to detail even was maintained throughout and presenting the menu wrapped in a blue ribbon to guests as they departed was a pleasing touch. So was the explanation of each course. The Castle Terrace Restaurant undoubtedly deserves attention.

CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED

CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED Grandeur of the Seas

Royal Caribbean Review by Nigel Duncan Quick look What to see Eating Out Sleepover Getting there IT is 7am. The Grandeur of the Seas is entering the Bay of Naples. On the starboard side is the world-famous volcano Vesuvius and on the port side the rugged Italian coastline. Nine of us are jogging on deck ten. The sun is about to rise and the temperature is 28C. It’s tough going completing two miles – eight times around the deck - as the humidity level is high. However, the view is stunning. It’s unlikely I’ll ever have a more memorable place to run. Less than an hour later we’ve docked and hundreds of us on the 2,446-capacity ship walk into town, women for retail therapy and men running the gauntlet of the street trader and the enthusiastic taxi men always eager to negotiate. We were spared the pushy salesmen in the other ports we visited but, for some, that is part of the allure of cruising. What to see: Part of the appeal of a cruise is waking up in another port. We called at five ports and the French city of Marseilles which was the only place where we had to take a bus as the ship was docked a distance from the town. The quayside fish market was disappointing after all I’ve heard about it but, if you are prepared to walk, then this bustling port is an ideal place to wander. A little train can take the strain for those less energetic. Typical French architecture, wide streets, atmospheric buildings and, for the ladies, a great shopping experience, with world-wide brands to the fore, make this an ideal stop-over. Take a brolly as we were caught in a horrendous cloudburst when the streets were flooded in seconds. One hour later the sun was out and everything was back to normal. Corsica was our next port of call, 210 miles south-east of Marseilles, and we docked at the capital, Ajaccio on a sparking day. The train trip of around 90 minutes takes you in and around the West Coast town - there seemed to be statues of Napoleon on every street - but this excursion went further, along the coastline and through several resorts, perfect for people tempted to plan a holiday here. It ended at Napoleon’s, four-storey, birthplace. Naples was next. We docked in scorching temperatures but, as I’d been there before, we decided to go walkabout, firstly to the main shopping streets, and then, when it became too hot, meandering back to the ship through narrow and shaded side-streets. Off the beaten track, Naples has a charm. Men playing cards, groups of locals sitting chatting, washing lines from one side of the street to the other, people rowing – loudly - and wonderful little shops selling everything from pastry to pizza to hand-made souvenirs. We picked up several gifts at decent prices because we were off the main track and the walk opened my eyes about the busy city. Sicily was next with Catania, underneath Mount Etna, chosen. The town has a long, eventful history and is now one of the main economic, tourism and education centers on the island. The fruit market is a delight – huge tomatoes and watermelons – but the noisy fish market is brim full of characters as well as a staggering array of fish. It was a highlight and the pavement cafes offer an ideal place to sit and watch the world go by and the huge outdoor market – food, including cheese and meat plus shoes, at staggeringly low prices - is a magnet for locals and tourists. Malta was out final destination with Valetta the harbour. The capital is home to around 7,000 people and it is easy to see why the 16th-century Baroque architecture made it a World Heritage Site. We took a short taxi ride from the dock to the centre – five minutes – and then wandered. The car-free streets made this a joy to stroll around and the shops – including several well-known brands – were augmented by local traders selling a range of goods, including jewellery. A local market was also available with keen prices. Eating out: Facilities on board are second-to-none. A recent, five-week, $48m refit has doubled the number of restaurants, Grandeur of the Seas is the eighth ship within Royal Caribbean International’s 22 strong fleet to undergo planned revitalisation. The re-furbishment included increasing the dining options onboard which have nearly doubled with the addition of five restaurants They include: Giovanni’s Table: An Italian trattoria featuring Italian classics served family-style Izumi: Featuring a sushi bar with hot-rock cooking Park Café: An indoor/outdoor gourmet market featuring salads, sandwiches, soups and pastries (No additional cost) Chef’s Table: An exclusive and private experience co-hosted by the executive Chef and Sommelier for a wine pairing dinner of five courses Chops Grille: Royal Caribbean International’s signature steakhouse featuring a menu of prime cuts. The speciality restaurants onboard incur an additional cost - guests have the option of choosing from several different dining packages which range from $50 to $120 per guest - all the main and buffet restaurants are included within the price of the cruise. And they are good. Surprisingly, the Windjammer Restaurant proved the most consistent, topping the main dining room. The range of food served from early to late was stunning. The crew – made up of over 50 nationalities – made sure of that. From breakfast to dinner, they had something to excite the palate. Freshly-cooked omelettes were a speciality (with eight fillings to pick from) and the Chinese chef made them into a work of art. The fruit and cereal collection, plus cold buffet (with salmon) was enough for anybody, even those with allergies. Yes, soya milk was available along with a choice of wheat-free bread. The League of Nations crew in the kitchen made lunch a constant draw. Chinese stir fry, Italian hunters stew, roast brisket and roast pork (with apple sauce) and a huge array of salads. They were superb. The soup, made with home-made stock, was consistently good and my particular favourite was minestrone. It was packed with flavour. And the sweets. There were normally around four plus fruit and were eye-catching. They normally tasted as good as they looked, particularly the almond cake and banana and coconut slice. Service in the main dining room was slick. We were fortunate. Kanga from St Vincent provided a wealth of information as well as being a quick wit. Advesh from Delhi was quietly efficient but also had a keen sense of humour. My niece didn’t want a sweet one evening. Not to be left out he placed a plate at her position with the word nothing discreetly iced on it. A nice touch. You had to watch your waistline, but jogging around the deck helped with that. The constant supply of coffee, teas – including speciality – and water on deck nine made it hard to complain. Sleepover: The quality of the cabins – with ensuite – was spot on. They were not big but more than adequate with cunning cupboards and more than enough storage space. Little things count and, in the evening, the cabin attendant normally created a sculpture from the linen. One night a monkey, the next an elephant. The en suite shower room was equipped with a surprisingly strong flow of water. The only disappointment was the lack of stations on the TV and the daily updates on the ship video channel were memorable by their mediocrity. Entertainment: A new baby and toddler nursery has been incorporated as part of the refit as well as a giant outdoor cinema screen. The Centrum – a giant atrium in the centre of the ship - has been transformed into a major entertainment area featuring a range of daytime activities, nightly shows and aerial performers. Sadly, the live showtime performances in the Atrium area failed to live up to the billing. It was the same in the superbly-equipped, on-board theatre. The entertainment, apart from Scottish singer Brenda Cochrane, who knew how to work an audience made up of several different nationalities, was disappointing. The well-equipped ships gym has all most need for a decent workout and the classes were tailor-made to suit participants. I know, I did one about keeping the body in shape. Refreshments: We had one major gripe – the price of drinks. It was OTT and other passengers, who had cruised with other companies, were not amused. Think again Royal Caribbean. Getting there: Easy, flight from Glasgow to Palma and a 20 minute bus trip to the quayside. Overall: We loved life on board and would do another cruise, mainly because of the variety of stop-overs and the food.

SCOTTISH LARDER WITH A SUBTLE TWIST

Stac Polly 29-33 Dublin Street Edinburgh EH3 6NL 0131 556 2231 www.stacpolly.com ROGER Coulthard has steered Stac Polly through the last two decades and it is easy to see why he has been so successful. The owner/chef skilfully merges traditional Scottish produce with innovative ideas. Clients obviously appreciate his creative skills as the intimate restaurant just minutes from Edinburgh’s world-famous Princes Street was packed on a damp Wednesday night. Remember, we are in the midst of a double-dip recession. Stac Polly – or in Gaelic, Stac Pollaidh - stands out just like the rocky crest in the North-West Highlands of Scotland which gives the restaurant its name. Why? Because it is refreshingly different in style and substance. Sure, there is a tartan carpet throughout and cartons of whisky on the shelves. The Scottish theme is, thankfully, understated. The subtle lighting, augmented by candles and neat floral arrangements, certainly adds to the overall effect. Where Roger stands out is in the creative menu. Duncan and I took time to ponder. However, I was particularly struck by the potential of duck, which I love, and pomegranate. I normally loathe the purple fruit which is a native of modern day Iraq and Iran and is now grown extensively in the Himalayas, Northern India and in the Middle East. Duncan loves scallops but we are also intrigued by the warm summer butternut squash soup with ginger, watermelon and coconut milk, smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade, baked filo pastry parcels of finest haggis with a sweet plum and red wine sauce. The vegetarian offer was baked caramelised red onion and beetroot tartlet, goats cheese, summer leaves and pesto dressing. Duncan plumped for the Loch Fine Queen scallops grilled in the shell and topped with a smoked salmon butter. They were cooked to perfection and the delicate topping of smoked salmon and citrus butter was perfect. My carpaccio of spiced and cured duck breast, beetroot salad, cherry tomatoes, grated hazelnut, parmesan tuile and, much to my amazement, the pomegranate dressing was a delight. On to the main. There were six choices. Rump of Borders lamb with aubergine confit and Stornoway black pudding in a red wine sauce excited. So did breast of corn-fed chicken filled with Scottish brie and wrapped in Parma ham. Salmon, not surprisingly for a Scottish restaurant, was on the menu, on this occasion with fresh horseradish and herb crumble, but I’d enjoyed salmon for breakfast elsewhere so I passed. Traditional or vegetarian haggis with neeps (carrots and turnips) and tatties (potatoes) were on offer but Duncan selected the rib-eye of Aberdeen Angus beef, smoked Applewood cheddar and onion gratin, caramelised shallot, fine beans with a wild mushroom and Burgundy cream sauce. He’s travelled the world extensively and has eaten the best meat on board ship in all parts of the globe. He adored the dish and has not stopped talking about it since. I was intrigued by the use of pak choi with sea bass. The two dainty fillets arrived on a bed of cherry tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, fine beans, and pak choi, with red chilli and onion and coriander salsa. The softness of the fish fitted well with the vegetables but this was an interesting rather than a spectacular dish. We declined the offer of sweets as we were satisfied. There were five, by the way. Lemon cheesecake, blackcurrent ice cream with red fruits coulis, dark chocolate tear drop and strawberry moose, vanilla pod crème brulee with Stac Polly shortbread, traditional Cranachan (cream, Drambuie, honey, oatmeal and raspberries) or Celtic cheese and home made chutney. Stac Polly reached the heights for Duncan and the intimate restaurant with a strong pedigree certainly deserves a visit.

THAI MASTER CLASS

Krua Thai Cookery School Liberton Edinburgh EH16 6AQ 0131 664 3036 www.kruathai.co.uk Ru Herd looked at the milk pan in which my Pandan leaf had become unravelled and smiled. Hers remained in the white liquid, beautifully tied. I knew it should not have happened but, typically, Ru encouraged constantly throughout my lesson. This was certainly not Hell’s Kitchen. She puts you at ease. However, it is difficult not to be blown away as it is not every day you go one-to-one with a master chef. Ru doesn’t just run a cookery school. She is a food consultant. Major firms come to her kitchen to create and refine dishes. She has a client list with packed with names from around 20 countries. What’s more, celebrities and world-famous sports stars have shared her kitchen. This soft-spoken mum, who has a BA Hons and a myriad of cooking and culinary art, qualifications, also caters for a star-studded guest list and blue-chip companies for corporate events. The list, and her achievements since arriving in the UK over two decades ago from Thailand, are mind-blowing. So, there I was, an amateur chef, standing in her well-appointed kitchen about to create four authentic Thai dishes. On the table were vegetables and fruit which I’d never seen. However, throughout the whole experience, I did not feel intimidated. Rather, I was encouraged to cut, dice, select ingredients and cook four dishes. The proof of the pudding is in the eating goes the old phrase. Well, you get a takeaway so your friends and family can sample the fruits of your labours over the hot stove in Ru’s kitchen. What struck me more than anything else was the subtlety of her approach. All the flavours were balanced. Tasting was done constantly and a wee bit of this and that was added if she was not 100 per cent happy. This was authentic Thai cooking. Some of the ingredients she uses are specially imported from Thailand and Vietnam – that’s how deeply Ru goes into detail. I was introduced to Kra-chaai, Pandan leaf, aubergine – not the ones we are used to – Chinese chives and radishes, galangal, bean curd, Israeli basil – yes it is different - and even dried prawns. We cut and used lime leaves and shrimp paste, created our own stock and I was even advised on which brands of product to buy in a Chinese supermarket. She even provided the locations. Minute detail goes into quality cooking and Ru has this down to a fine art. And, speaking of art, every course delegate receives a stunning carved melon to take away. I was in awe as she does the carving. My takeaway was in a box with a ribbon. Yes, Ru, who has worked in top hotels and restaurants, does that too. And everything is done with a smile and an explanation. If you don’t understand then ask and remember, she will tell you when the vegetables or meat is not cut to her liking! So, what was crammed into my session. I made four dishes. Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts – we even fried real peanuts which we crushed for this. Fried rice with egg. Believe me, this was top notch and not difficult. Chicken red curry with galangal and lemon grass, and a superb dessert, cooked banana in coconut cream. Impressive list and one which would wow any dinner party guests. And yes, you get to take away the recipes. One drawback, Ru is not by your side when you try to recreate these recipes in your own kitchen. One thing which stood out for me was her organisation. All sauces were sited next to the cooker. All had wee dishes which could easily be accessed and preparation was crucial. We also used only one pan the whole afternoon, apart from cooking dessert, of course, so this was economic cooking. And we also made home-made stock. No, we didn’t add bay leaves and an array of vegetables. We just used parts of a carcass of a chicken and then strained away the fat. This was authentic and the course was packed with hints and tips. The do’s and don’ts of cooking rice, a real problem for me, despite having a rice cooker, basically, I never get it right, were explained even down to simple measuring tricks for rice and water. This was cooking in the raw. It was both educational and entertaining and I loved it. You would too. PS: I’m now off to the Chinese supermarket to buy ingredients. I’m hooked.

PERFECTIONIST PAUL HOMES IN FOR SUCCESS

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street Edinburgh EH3 5AH www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday: 12-2 Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday: 6.30-23.30 0131 226 3500 Stockbridge is one of my favourite parts of Edinburgh. It still retains that homely, village feel, but was incorporated into Edinburgh in the 19th century and it hugs the banks of the Water of Leith as it trundles down to the River Forth. It is little wonder that chef Paul Gunning (pictured) decided to plump for a basement in the trendy, middle-class area to open a new restaurant. And that leap of faith five months ago appears to be paying off. Purslane – named after a small family of succulent leaves, all but one of which is found in the British isles - was packed on the midweek night we were there. That is a testament to Paul’s undoubted craft and artistic flair. His dishes are eye-catching as well as mouth-watering. This cosy restaurant is well worth visiting and not just for the charming location, tucked in among an eclectic mix of sometimes quirky shops – and a few charity outlets -plus a plethora of welcoming restaurants and pubs. Competition is tough. Historic Stockbridge, incidentally, is named after the wooden bridge which used to straddle the nearby river. Painter Henry Raeburn used to live nearby and it has a rich sporting history. The first rugby international between Scotland and England was held at Raeburn Place while, across the road, The Grange Club is the home of Scottish cricket. Indeed, the ground hosted games during the 1999 Cricket World Cup. On a daily basis, Stockbridge is home to some of the most desirable dwellings in the city and it also boasts some distinctive food shops. A game butcher, a wonderful fishmonger, local bread shops are features and the area’s strong association with food includes a distinctive cheese shop. It is no surprise therefore that Paul, who has worked in five star hotels and two to three starred Michelin restaurants, uses local produce, including cheese from the cheese shop, I J Mellis, in his distinctive and constantly evolving offering. Duncan and I spent some time exploring the small but tempting menu before selecting. My dietary problem (lactose intolerant) was not a problem. There are five choices for starter. Chicken liver parfait with redcurrant jelly and melba toast, quail roulade with a pancetta and artichoke salad and a bacon cream, salmon roulette with fennel and tomato compote and whisky cured salmon, tuna tartar with caramelised olive puree and asparagus and potato salad with truffle vinaigrette. Hard choice. Duncan plumped for quail roulade. It was beautifully presented but lacked a distinctive taste. My dark coloured tuna tartar, topped with a quail egg, looked fantastic and tasted divine. The sharpness of the flavour made it one of the more memorable starters I’ve had in ages. On to the main. Once again, five possible picks. Pork loin with sweet potato rosti, braised chicory and caramelised apple, spice encrusted lamb pump with Bombay potatoes, spinach puree and curry dressing, pave of cod wrapped in Parma ham with glazed baby vegetables and a potato and ox tail gateau, sea bream with socca chips, Mediterranean vegetables and caponata dressing and vegetable gateaux with spinach puree and spring vegetables. Duncan loves lamb, indeed he used to be an engineer on board ship and transferred lamb regularly from the other side of the world back to Britain. He was enthused by the Paul’s creation. Cooked perfectly pink, retaining the moisture and with a tasty crust, and boasting a subtle curry twist, the dish was sublime. The spinach puree provoked a lively debate as well as showing off the dish to the full. My cod, with a touch of parsley, which worked wonderfully well, lifting the taste of the soft fish, plus the al dente green vegetables, made this a fine dish. We did, however, have room for sweet. Duncan is a keen gardener and makes his own fruit-based desserts from his fruit trees so he had to try one of Paul’s creations. He was bowled over by the roast plum with a rum and Muscavado sauce and vanilla ice cream. So much so, that I was offered only a tiny sample. My roasted apple and thyme sauce was interesting but not in the same league as Duncan’s. Other possible were white chocolate mousse with dark chocolate sauce and raspberry coulis, orange and Cointreau crème brulee, pear mille feuille with crème Chantilly and caramelised almonds or cheese from Mr Mellis’ round the corner. We felt at home at homely Purslane where two courses cost £21.95 and three a value £25.95. The accommodating waiter, recognising that we were keen to try something different, recommended a Romanian pinot noir. Wonderful advice. It was packed with red fruits and spice. Medium-bodied with a refreshing taste. I’m off to find a bottle of Calusari in my local wine shop.

SUCHI SPECTACULAR AT AWARD-WINNING KANPAI

STUNNING: food artistry at Kanpai

Kanpai
8-10 Grindlay Street,
Edinburgh
EH3 9AS
www.kanpaisushi.co.uk
Tuesday to Sunday: noon to 2.30pm; 5-10.30pm
0131 228 1602

OPINIONS vary when you mention you mention you are going to a Japanese restaurant. Pre-conceptions are hard to shift.
Some people would relish the experience, others would walk the other way, but more and more people are warming to sushi.
Healthy eating is certainly a draw. The main ingredients of raw fish and rice are naturally low in fat, high in protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.
And the dishes are colourful.
Sushi is traditionally eaten for celebrations and it first developed in South-East Asia and spread to China and then Japan.
The word means sour tasting and the first mention in the West appeared in the late 1800s.
Western palates have seen an adaption with rolls being introduced along with non-traditional mayonnaise, avocado and even cream cheese.
And the advent of sushi bars at main stations and airports, and in the centre of major cities, plus major chains like M&S stocking trays in their retail outlets, has accelerated the trend.
I’m a convert and a regular buyer when I travel domestically, preferring healthy to stodge. John, my companion, a leading promoter at the Acoustic Music Centre on the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, was sceptical, but willing to try.
Well Kanpai, and our charming host, Lee Yee Lim, take a bow. The evening proved to be enlightening and entertaining, and it certainly opened our eyes to what can be done with simple ingredients prepared properly with artistry, ingenuity and skill. Some of the presentation was stunning and the fusion of flavour stunning.
Kanpai, for those who know Edinburgh, is situated near the Usher Hall, the city’s leading concert hall, and in the shadow of the popular Royal Lyceum Theatre. Shrewd move, arts lovers can also be discerning diners.
The restaurant name literally means bottoms up in Japanese. Pity, because that’s crude while Kanpai is class. It has only been open since last August but is already an award-winner.
It won the Newcomer of the Year category in the Scottish Restaurant Awards and Kanpai has quickly become regarded as one of the finest traditional Japanese restaurants in Scotland’s Capital. It is easy to see why.
The decor is minimalist, but don’t let that put you off. The welcome is sincere and the restaurant is spotless.
Undoubtedly, going into the gastronomic unknown – particularly when you are having to pay handsomely for the privilege – is daunting.
Our hostess, Malaysian-born Lee Yee Lim, put us at ease, talking us through the beautifully bound and illustrated menu, asking questions about our likes and dislikes, and suggesting what might be most appropriate.
She even consulted the chef to ensure we were not disappointed. That’s customer service.
What’s more, Ms Lim even delivered little surprises like the condiments of pickled ginger (to aid digestion and cleanse the palate) and wasabi, a piquant paste made from the grated root of a plant. It makes your eyes water so watch how much you take.
Diners at laid-back Kanpai can choose to sit at the intimate sushi bar or the open kitchen counter where they can watch their food being prepared.
We preferred a seat in the busy dining-room. Within minutes or ordering, we were eating, that’s the nature of sushi.
So, what did we savour? A tasty twist to Wakame seaweed salad with sesame was recommended. It had a hint of red chilli which kick-started the night perfectly. By the way, it is not dried but moist.
Pan fried vegetable and chicken dumplings were packed with flavour and the seared tuna with homemade dressing on a bed of finely sliced cucumber was heavenly.
John professes not to like eating anything which wriggles in the sea, his words not mine, but the powers of persuasion from Ms Lim worked.
Takoyaki octopus fish cake exploded in our mouths as we bit into the surprisingly soft centre. One disappointment was the fried mixed vegetable tempura – containing carrots, onions and beans - which was bland until dipped in soya sauce.
However, the grilled aubergine in sweet sauce more than made up for it.
The perfectly cooked, medium rare, sirloin steak, finished at the table on an aeromatic Poye leaf, was exquisite but the Teriyaki salmon came nowhere near in terms of taste.
Spicy raw tuna came next along with grilled eel. John had tried eel before and baulked until I had a mouthful. The mackerel-type flavour was both a surprise and delight to the palate.
Kanpai chefs use Scottish produce, freshly prepared and imaginatively presented. Their Dragon Roll – avocado, cucumber and king prawn – is one of the most popular picks on the menu. It is visually stunning.
The Rainbow Roll – raw tuna, salmon, cucumber and avocado – is also popular. Sadly, after such a big build up (they are also mentioned on various internet reviews) both disappointed, possibly because of the avocado.
The dishes were, however, enlivened by a splash of soy and, of course, a piece of picked ginger.
King prawn seemed popular with other diners and the raw scallops were, visually, stunning, sitting on a slice of lemon on a bed of crushed ice decorated with straw, lettuce and radish strands.
There is no doubt that as word spreads then more will find their way to Kanpai and possibly have their eyes, and taste buds, well and truly opened.

HEWAT'S DESERVE SUCCESS

Hewat’s Restaurant
19-21b Causewayside
Edinburgh EH9 1QF
0131 466 6660
queries@hewatsrestaurant.co.uk
www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday 12-2
Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 6pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday: 6pm to 10pm.

Richard Hewat has cooked for some demanding people during his culinary career. For example, Royalty, and the best-known 007, Edinburgh-born Sean Connery.
And, he was also head chef at the RBC world headquarters in Edinburgh producing five-star food during the watch of Fred Goodwin.
Attention to detail is therefore second nature. If shows in his planning and his customer service.
Take my situation. I rang up seeking a booking. We discussed diet, I’m lactose intolerant and Kirsty has a gluten allergy.
On arrival, we were both handed separate menus with a varied choice of dishes. We were, quite simply, made to feel welcome not, as sometimes happens, a nuisance.
This restaurant is a family affair. Richard’s wife Margaret is vastly experienced front-of-house, and it shows.
A warm welcome, followed by efficient but unfussy service, was a feature. Nothing was too much trouble for Margaret and her attentive staff.
The couple took the plunge and opened Hewat’s Restaruant eight years ago. It’s situated at Causewayside, ten minutes walk from Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile.
Therefore, life is just that little bit tougher.
A substantial section of Edinburgh University, including residences at Pollock Halls, is within comfortable walking distance. The busy Queen’s Hall, a popular concert venue, is not far away and surrounding the cosy restaurant, decorated by an eclectic mix of original paintings by named Scottish artists, are a host of flats, many inhabited by students, small hotels and guest houses.
A major insurance company is a stroll away as is a major library, but Richard and Margaret are off the main drag as Edinburgh’s concentration of hotels is on the other side of town.
Hewat’s, therefore, relies on repeat business, local PR and word-of-mouth. Quality and consistency in the food is of paramount importance.
Award-winning Richard, who led a team which won the Egon Roney Seafood Restaurant of the Year Award in a previous employment, knows exactly where his produce comes from.
The chef, who has also worked for major chains including Sheraton and Hilton, believes that is crucial to his operation which concentrates on a combination of classic French and Scottish cuisine.
So, what was there to choose from? Five starters were presented while we savoured home-made rolls fresh from the oven.
Wild mushroom, parsnip and thyme soup, smoked salmon with baby capers and lime, pigeon breast with puy lentil and shallots with red wine, grilled sardines with sun blushed tomatoes and basil or melon platter with orange and passion fruit syrup.
Kirsty selected the soup. It had a wonderful colour and was packed with flavour. My pigeon was eye-catching and interesting, particularly the use of the lentils.
The shallots added an extra dimension but tended to overpower the taste of the meat. However, it was a pleasant starter.
There were six mains on offer. Roast Barbary duck breast with port and redcurrant jus, wild mushroom, red onion and leek risotto with shavings of parmesan, charred vegetables and rocket salad, filet of coley and tomato and basil sauce with crushed new potatoes and wilted greens, blackened Cajun chicken with Thai curry dressing, new potatoes and stir fry peppers, charred sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beef with green peppercorn sauce, lyonnaise potatoes with fine beans (£5 supplement) or medley of sea bass, salmon and tiger prawns with light garlic fish nage, lobster mash with wild garlic.
Kirsty selected the filet of coley. The fish arrived on a bed of vegetables surrounded by roasted cherry tomatoes and looked wonderful. It was well-seasoned and beautifully cooked.
My duck was succulent and worked well apart from the red cabbage which, I felt, was too sweet. However, both dishes were well-received.
As to sweets, dietry considerations ruled here. Kirsty had four to pick from, poached fruits with berry compote, Tiramisu crème brulee with shortbread, chocolate mousse with candied orange of selection of speciality cheeses.
My choice was poached fruits with berry compote or baked banana with honey roasted fig.
Kirsty plumped for chocolate mousse and the candied orange was an added bonus. It was wonderful.
My baked banana was a triumph for creativity.
The 66-seat restaurant has a character of its own. Some of the seats were procured from a former local church. You felt you were sitting in a family pew.
Hewat’s has a loyal customer base and it is easy to see why. The hard-working couple deserve that for their industry.
Give Hewat’s a try. The midweek dinner menu costs £18.95 for two courses or £22.95 for three, quality food at a sensible price. You’ll not be disappointed and the responses from the tables around us on the night was really positive.
By the way, they also take bookings for groups only on days they are normally closed, that’s customer service.