GRAND DURBAR: TWO DECADES OF MEALS TO SUIT

Grand Durbar 294 Melton Street Leicester LE4 7PB 0116 266 6099 Open seven days (12-3; 6-11) RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 3/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 3/5 WEBSITE: 1/5 TOTAL: 19/30 THE blurb said this family run business had a fantastic reputation built up over two decades. That’s a huge claim and it had to be put to the test. I took the 15-minute taxi ride from the centre of Leicester was worth it. Grand Durbar sits on the city’s Golden Mile and first impressions are deceiving. It sits amongst a non-descript row of buildings and the small entrance hall to the 55-seat restaurant also includes a bar. The warmth of the welcome was encouraging. Again, the decor was not plush. However, the menu was extensive and the service slick. Any diet and allergy concerns were quickly alleviated. Meals were tailored to suit. My vegetarian vegetable cutlets were packed with flavour even if the accompanying side salad was basic. However, my Shashlick was special. It’s blend of onions, green peppers and tomato cooked in mossala spices was expeptional. So was the mixed vegetable rice. None of the vegetables, which included cauliflower, were mushy and all had a crunch. Durbar means audience chamber. We’ll, this chamber deserves a visit.

NEW DIMENSION AT DUCKS

Ducks Restaurant at Kilspindie House Hotel Main Street Aberlady East Lothian EH32 0RE 01875 870 682 www.ducks.co.uk RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 4/5 BEER SELECTION: 4/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 4.5 TOTAL: 25/30 Ducks at Kilspindie House has recently introduced a new head chef, Allesandro Grillo, and a new sous chef, Alan Contigiani, adding a new dimension. The Italian-born duo both have experience in Michelin-starred kitchens and Allesandro looked to his roots when he created a new menu for the atmospheric restaurant. Flavours from his native country are included in the menu which offers fine dining in an intimate, relaxed and unstuffy environment. Ducks is delightfully different, possibly taking a cue from proprietor Malcolm Duck whose unique front-of-house style, coupled with a quirky sense of humour, makes this a memorable place to dine. Feast your eyes on this note in the menu which said: “Here at Ducks we have a simple code when it comes to cuisine and hospitality, fresh, flavoursome, home-made food, a warm welcome and a relaxing, enjoyable stay. We source the finest quality East Lothian ingredients and produce everything in house. Chef Grillo is simply a joy to work with (so he tells me!).” Could Ducks live up to the billing? The restaurant’s position in the picturesque, laid-back village of Aberlady, within minutes of some of the finest sandy beaches in Scotland, and in the shadow of world-famous golf links, including Murifield, home of the 2013 Open Championship, gives it a head start. But Ducks is so much more than a comfy retreat. It is a restaurant with surprises and delectable twists to excite the taste buds. So to the dining room. If I said the colour scheme was green – yes, bottle green in some areas – it may be off-putting to some. However, think again. Offset with linen tablecloths, the candle-lit, 26-cover dining room with a flaming fire, plus golfing memorabilia and pictures, including water colours, of the surrounding area, was like taking a nostalgic walk back in time. We went on a chilly, Tuesday evening, driving through fog on the 25-minute trip from Edinburgh. Not the best of starts, but we chilled out in the cocktail bar, brushing shoulders will locals, some in for a pint with their dog or on the way home from working in the city. We also noted the extensive range of whisky and that was simply explained. Ducks have recently been welcomed by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society as a partner bar so guests have the opportunity to sample 16 distinctive single casks which are usually only available to Society members and their guests. The intriguing á la carte menu at award-winning Ducks – recently awarded 2 AA rosettes for its culinary excellence - sources much of its produce locally. Most restaurants do so, what makes Ducks different? There were five starters the night we visited. Pumpkin and ginger steamed winter vegetable soup, steak tartare with lime cure, pear and mustard seasoning, cod Mantecato with roasted potatoes, Cerignola olives and chives plus lemon sole three ways and chef’s salad. Sole three ways was delightfully different and inventive, wrapped around Jerusalem artichoke and beetroot, butternut squash and thyme, salsify and basil and with a celery and orange sauce. The basil twist was particularly effective. Pam and I were both intrigued by the salad. It included Alexander Grass, turnip, beetroot, fennel, pineapple, clementine, pomegranate and sea buckthorn sauce. It took her down memory lane as she enjoyed the pomegranate when she was at school. I will not say how long ago that was. It packed a mouth-watering punch and the turnip, cut in thin strips, sat well and was lifted by the colourful mix. What’s more, the balance of the flavor was a delight and the clementine exploded in the mouth. This augured well. Creativity is the name of the game for Allesandro. There were five main offerings, two meat, two fish and one vegetarian. I was drawn to the duo of quail by the potential. Roasted, cider cooked apple, lightly fried, filo nest, tempura vegetables and sweet red vinegar sauce. Pam picked carved sirloin of beef. The dish worked splendidly, the succulent meat complemented by the much under-valued kale, wild mushrooms and roasted Royal Kidney potatoes. The vegetarian option was savoy and red cabbage parcels, Basmati rice, Gorgonzola cheese with a saffron sauce, or cannelloni of sea fish with chickpea and rosemary sauce with seaweed or fillet of halibut with roasted tomatoes, black olives and seasonal vegetables. Malcolm believes in Allessandro and it is easy to see why. Take the desserts. Traditional apple strudel with vanilla ice cream, sacher torte with mint sauce, white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry jelly, parfait of hazelnut, pistachio and walnut with honey sauce, Granny Smith bavarese with cider jelly and chocolate or rhubarb crème brulee. There was also a selection of cheeses including Scottish - Isle of Mull cheddar, Dunsyre blue and Lanark white – were available. Yes, it’s tough being a food critic, we were spoilt for choice. Pam couldn’t resist the temptation of the crème brulee and my lactose intolerance directed me towards the apple strudel. This one had a twist, thin slivers of apple were smothered in a delicious Jamaican pepper and caramel sauce. Coffee came with handmade petits fours. My allergy meant chef created a pineapple alternative which was interesting. Neighbouring Donald’s – named after Malcolm’s father - serves bar/bistro style food along with real ale, 50 to 60 malts and diners also have access to the extensive wine list which includes bottles with a price tag into four figures. Alternatives in Donald’s range from a cup of soup and a sandwich to a 40-day matured fillet steak from well-known Buccleuch Estates and it is designed for relaxed meal after, possibly, a walk along the beach. The area is also popular with birdwatchers. Both restaurants are within Kilspindie House which has 26 bedrooms all en suite with free wi-fi and flat screen TVs. Longniddry Station – which is on the main East Coast rail line from London to Edinburgh - is only 18 mins by train from the centre of Edinburgh with a free bus pick up so there is every reason to touchdown at Ducks.

CASA ROMANA, A REAL GEM

Casa Romana 5 Albion Street Leicester LE1 6GD www.casaromana.co.uk Open six days for lunch and dinner 0116 2541174 RATING: FOOD: 5/5 AMBIANCE: 5/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 4/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 3/5 TOTAL: 24/30 It’s my last night in Leicester after attending the FSB’s National Conference and I go for a stroll to get some air. I take a wrong turning into a deserted side street but see a green door. Interesting? There is no sign outside but I catch a glimpse of wine bottles. Suddenly, a shirt sleeved man appears. I asked: “Is this a restaurant?” He replied: “It is.” I was intrigued so I follow him inside and I don’t regret the move. Casa Romana is a real gem. And the atmosphere inside the family-run restaurant is second-to-none. If I lived in Leicester I would be a frequent visitor it was that good. The food is superb. There were 12 starters on offer on the snowy, March night I dined there. I was tempted by the tuna and bean salad or pasta, and noodles with Italian sausage, tomatoes and cream a big draw but, as there was a chill in the air, I selected Minestrone soup and was not disappointed. Yes, it had the usual tomatoes, onions, garlic and celery but parsnip gave this dish an extra dimension. What’s more, the vegetables had real bite which added to the experience. The accompanying bread, with its crunchy crust, was perfect. Service was slick, after an initial hiccup over the order, and my main followed after much deliberation. Yes, I was tempted by medallions of fillet steak with peas in a mushroom and brandy sauce with tomatoes and a touch of cream was mouth-watering. Calves liver pan fried in lemon zest and butter was also an attraction but the grilled sea bream with a side salad and chips appealed more. Once again, it was simple but effective. The fish was drizzled with olive oil and a squirt of lemon added to the flavour. The green salad, dressed with olive oil, cider vinegar and oregano, was an ideal accompaniment to the soft-flavoured fish. And the thin-cut chips, well, they were perfect. The maddening thing is for me is that this was my last night and the chances of a re-visit are slim. However, if you live nearby then you should pay a visit.

KAZAN: ELEGENT DECOR AND GREAT FOOD

Kazan Restaurant 93-94 Wilton Street London SW1V 1DW 020 7233 7100 Victoria@kazanrestaurant.com Lunch: 12-3 Dinner: 5.30-10.30 It’s a Sunday night and I’m walking towards my hotel on my own with the temperature dropping by the minute. I’m getting hungry and have an avalanche of work to get through to a deadline so I think food. Surprisingly in downtown Victoria, restaurants are closed, even at 6.30pm. I spot a Brazilian restaurant which is packed, a good sign, but the menu does not excite. What about an up-market Italian? Nobody in and therefore no atmosphere and the menu is a tad fussy. The Spanish restaurant I eyed some weeks ago which looked promising was closed and so was the up-market fish and chip restaurant. Kazan then came into view. The elegant modern decor was eye-catching and the menu was inviting, even if the blurb was a trifle flowery. Kazan describe their food as: “A rich tapestry of tastes and pleasures all perfected in the Sultans' kitchens from the Ottoman era. “This infusion of history and taste has been brought back to life by our traditional Turkish chefs, recreating classic Ottoman dishes and creating new and exciting tastes we like to call Ottoman fusion.” However, first impressions are powerful and, blurb aside, Kazan undoubtedly looked the part. I was in a rush so one course was sufficient and they delivered. The service was slick and the food packed a punch. Within seconds of ordering – yes, there were other diners – I had wonderfully flavoured Turkish bread on the table with a superbly garlic, olive oil-based sauce with a touch of chilli. A brilliant opener. Then came the main. I was not disappointed. Earlier, I had asked for advice and it was given. They even took into account my allergy, lactose intolerance. The waiter consulted the chef and returned with alternatives. I stayed simple and plumped for Adana Kofte, speciality from the south of Turkey, fiery red chillies blended with minced lamb char grilled, served with salad and rice or chunky fries. Presentation was superb and the flavour? It flooded out. Nothing, however, was overpowering, even the chillies, and the mix was memorable. Eating alone is never pleasant however Kazan make every effort to please without going over the top. The atmosphere is just right and the spotless restaurant is one I’ll return to without hesitation.

CHOCK A BLOCK WITH NEW IDEAS

MyChocolate

Unit B1
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ

0207 269 5760

www.mychocolate.co.uk

 

SUNDAY afternoon. I’m walking out of Chancery Lane tube station heading into the unknown.

The destination is a course in chocolate making. I’m in unfamiliar territory. Yes, I enjoy cooking, but making chocolates? That’s a different world.

It is with trepidation that I make my way towards a factory unit in a side street. The co-ordinates are pressed and I am welcomed into a reception area. It is clinical and unnverving.

Within minutes I’m joined by around 24 people – and a guide dog – and we talk excitedly about the prospect.

Most are chocoholics. Many drool over the prospect of creating their own to have a ready supply to eat. Others crave the secrets of making chocolates to extend their culinary skills. All eulogise about chocolate. It seems a compulsion, an obsession. 

From my point of view there is only one other man, scary. We are ushered forward and walk down a flight of stairs into the basement and pick a seat. We make polite conversation and, thankfully, nobody seems to be an expert despite the fact that some seem to be accomplished cooks.

In strides Richard, our tutor. He explains the basics of the cocoa bean and we get to work.

We wash our hands, thoroughly, and then break up chocolate into a bowl. It is then whisked away for melting. When it returns and we get to work.

A chocolate biscuit is created using both plain and milk chocolate. It is simple, two tablespoons of plain chocolate and then a drizzle of milk chocolate.

After that, you could add a topping of coconut, hundreds and thousands or rose petals. No rules, design your own. However, the competitive nature of the delegates quickly became apparent so did the artistic skills, or lack of skills, of others.

We then split into teams to create chocolate balls with the addition of cream. This process is simple when you have an expert on hand.

But, boy does this process make a mess. I didn’t feel out of place as there was chocolate everywhere. Richard said the process would transport us back to childhood. He was so right.

Working in pairs, and against the clock, we filled a plastic piping bag – too difficult to wash chocolate from a muslin one, we were told - of the rich, dark mix.

Jenny, my partner for the exercise, then extracted the mix – about the size of a golf ball - onto the table and I rolled them in the cocoa, on the points of my fingers as the palm gives off too much heat.

Jenny cheated. Some of the chocolate didn’t make the mix. Temptation was strong and it ended up being eaten.

My grand-daughter would love this, I thought, as I rolled the chocolate and cream mix into balls and I dipped my imperfect chocolate shapes into the rich, dark liquid.

Removing them with a fork before then melted and without creating an almighty mess in an art. Much of the chocolate, I’m afraid, ended up on the table instead of the greaseproof paper.

But, we ended up bagging enough of our home-made chocolates to take them home as souvenirs. I forecast that they would not last long. They didn’t.

Everybody hugely enjoyed the experience, including the guide dog who lapped up all the scraps.

There were grand-dads, mums and daughters and parties of friends in our group and the excited chatter as we departed into the winter chill underlined how much participants had gained from the experience.

Me? Well, I’m determined to make some more. The effect is stunning and the effort minimal providing, of course, you adhere to simple principals. OK, my daughter just happened to mention what I had done to my grand-daughter and she wants to try. Surprise, surprise but a message for gran – be prepared for a mess in the kitchen.

The chocolate making workshops organised by MyChocolate are billed as an indulgent experience. They were for many on Sunday.

They are designed for corporate clients, team building or planning a hen party or for a gift experience and are run in London, Manchester and Brighton.

The two hours flew past. By the way, my chocolates didn’t last five minutes.

AL DENTE PUTS BITE ON TRADITION

Al Dente 139 Easter Road Edinburgh EH7 5QA 0131 652 1932 www.al-dente-restaurant.co.uk Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 Monday to Saturday 5.30-10 Closed: Sunday AL Dente is in the shadow of Easter Road, home of Scottish Premier League football side Hibernian who once entertained leading clubs, including Italian giants Juventus, in Europe. Those days – for anoraks among you Hibs played Juventus in the UEFA Cup in October and November 1974 – are long gone now as Hibs, who are currently riding high in the Scottish domestic league, have slipped down the European rankings. But the owners of Al Dente have taken on the challenge of creating the true Italian experience in one of Edinburgh’s less celebrated areas and lifting it high in the pecking order. The restaurant has a head start. As Tinelli’s, it build a solid reputation for good, authentic Italian food over the past 25 years. But Al Dente has new owners and is different. It claims to serve pure Italian food, unadulterated by cream or pre-cooked pasta, always fresh and delicious. The menu is not extensive but has items to satisfy most tastes. Duncan and I pondered while we enjoyed some olives. It proved difficult as this menu had twists. For example the antipasti selection included steamed mussels with orange fragrance and pie with smoked Apulia cheese and baked fennel au gratin. Eventually, Duncan plumped for baked figs topped with gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma ham. I eventually decided on cabbage dumplings with minced pork and mushrooms served on a bed of mashed chickpeas. The presentation was superb, particularly the figs. They were delicately wrapped with the ham which looked like a rose petal. And the taste was distinctive. My dumplings provided a mouth-watering surprise. The cabbage was a fine accompaniment to the distinctive minced pork and mushrooms. It was a clue to what was to come next. Al Dente’s food and surrounding is billed as being authentic of what one would expect in a traditional Italian restaurant. The surrounding, possibly, but not the food. The secondi underlined that. Once again, the small but interesting selection caused healthy debate. I was tempted by oven baked terrine of cod pie with leeks, olives, broccoli and tomatoes served topped with grated mashed potatoes. The sirloin steak stuffed with Parma ham and cheese with a porcini mushroom sauce served with roasted potatoes and vegetables was an attraction. Duncan eventually picked the house special pasta which came enveloped in a thick, tomato sauce. It was filling without being exceptional. My roulade of grilled swordfish steaks stuffed with pine nuts, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and raisins, served on a bed of barley and pepper with capers and anchovies was both eye-catching and innovative. The beautifully cooked fish – I was assured it was fresh from a local fishmonger – was complemented by the barley. Not a mixture I expected but nonetheless a welcome addition to my gastronomic experience and one I may try at home. Chef Graziano Spano sources produce locally and his menu will soon change for the winter. He stressed the concept of al dente cooking as being very important to the restaurant. Al Dente, means, literally on the tooth, and indicates a firmness of pasta texture, which is symptomatic of freshly cooked pasta. His style is individual and is worth experiencing. The busy restaurant – with around 20 covers – also hosts theme nights which are extremely popular. They are trying hard to build a clientele and I wish him well. He faces stiff competition not just from neighbours in Easter Road but nearby Leith, formerly a run-down area and now one bristling with restaurants and bars. The slick service, good atmosphere and attention to detail, with food allergies catered for, and vegetarian options available, make this cosy restaurant one to visit.

CASTLE TERRACE: DESERVES ATTENTION

THE CASTLE TERRACE RESTAURANT 33-35 Castle Terrace Edinburgh EH1 2EL 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 and 18.30 to 22.0 Closed Sunday and Monday TOM Kitchen formed a friendship with Dominic Jack when they were both young chefs working at the world-famous Gleneagles Hotel. Now, several years on, the pair have teamed up to create The Castle Terrace Restaurant experience. The name may be bland but this is more than made up for by the creativity of the cuisine. This is refinement redefined, sophistication without being stuffy and culinary flair at the leading edge, showcasing the finest ingredients from Scotland’s world-famous larder. The French-Scottish dishes have made this a haven for discerning diners and, since the restaurant opened in July 2010, it was won a number of awards including Restaurant of the Year and Most Innovative Restaurant. It is easy to see why. The visual appeal of the food blends with a fusion of flavours. What’s more, Castle Terrace take attention to detail to an exceptionally high level. They even created special menu to accommodate my lactose intolerance. It was so appealing that several of my companions were interested in considering my dishes rather than options on the regular menu. That attention to detail was evident as we chatted before lunch. Canapés arrived on individual wooden platters and were an indication of what was to come. The caper berry was a mouth-watering surprise and the black olives and pepper bruschetta had me seeking more. So, what was on offer on the three-course lunch menu? Three starters: freshly picked brown crab from Newhaven, served with mango, avocado and roasted red pepper or crispy Ayrshire pork belly served with figs and port or tartare of line caught mackerel from Eyemouth served with apple and ginger. They all sounded wonderful but I eventually plumped for the mackerel as I was anxious to see if Mr Jack had succeeded in fusing an oily fish with the strong flavour of ginger and the sweetness of the apple. It was certainly eye-catching but, sadly, I felt the flavours worked against each other. Others may differ. The chef’s creativity was, however, shown to its full with the main. Poached fillet of North Sea plaice, served with “pink fur apple” potatoes was stunning in concept and superb in taste. I’ll not spoil the effect, but this was not how chefs traditionally serve flatfish. Red-legged partridge from Tullybeagles Estate, served with cabbage, grapes, carrots and celery was another winner. My fellow diners enthused about it. Me? I’ve been terribly disappointed with hake dishes in the past but I was confident this time. The two tender roasted fillets of North Sea hake arrived on a bed of haricot beans and chorizo. Simple and effective to the eye, it was a delight to the palate. There were three options to finish: a seasonal fruit salad, a selection of sorbet or pistachio and coconut soufflé served with pineapple sorbet. It was an easy choice and the soufflé looked as good as it tasted. Mr Jack trained at Edinburgh’s Telford College. He then worked at the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel before moving up-market to a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris. He was headhunted to be Chef de Cuisine at the Swissôtel in Istanbul before returning to his hometown of Edinburgh to link up with Tom Kitchin at award-winning The Kitchin in Leith. Their passion and the restaurant’s philosophy - from nature to plate – is attracting a healthy clientele. The restaurant was busy and the relaxing atmosphere – with a subtle touch of tartan - added to the occasion. That attention to detail even was maintained throughout and presenting the menu wrapped in a blue ribbon to guests as they departed was a pleasing touch. So was the explanation of each course. The Castle Terrace Restaurant undoubtedly deserves attention.