Monday, August 29, 2011

HAMILTON'S: IDEALLY SITUATED



Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen
16-18 Hamilton Place
Edinburgh
EH3 5AU
0131 226 4199
www.hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk
Open seven days: 9am to 1am

Hamilton’s was launched three years ago. The object was to give the Stockbridge locals a home from home and others a destination where the service was friendly, the atmosphere relaxed and the confidence that only fair-trade and organic suppliers were used in dishes, charged at a reasonable price.
It is situated in Edinburgh’s affluent Stockbridge district which was originally an outlying village incorporated into the Capital city in the 19th century.
Stockbridge is my favourite part of Scotland’s Capital city and still has a village feel with quality local shops – interspersed with a number of charity stores - including an up-market butcher shop, where you can buy game birds (no jokes please), plus a superb cheese shop (the smell is exquisite for some nauseating for others), plus a number of popular restaurants and bars.
It also boasts the Water of Leith, with a much-used walkway, running through it with Hamilton’s ideally positioned. The establishment is branded as an all-purpose venue. The web-site blurb reads: “Hamilton’s is a place where mothers meet after dropping the kids off at school, business meetings roll into lunch and locals meet with destination diners for food, wine, cocktails and everything else in between. Hamilton’s seem to have something to offer everyone at different times of the day.”
And, let’s not overlook this point, it is busy. The management accommodated us on a Saturday night, an evening when they also had a 30th birthday party and the bar was packed, so was the restaurant.
We were privileged to sit at a table at the front, overlooking the Water of Leith walkway, however that backfired. Where do drinkers at the bar go for a cigarette? Immediately in front of where we were sitting. OK we didn’t get the fumes, but we were gawked at by punters having a drag.
We couldn’t fault the service. It was slick despite it being a full-house. And the extensive menu undoubtedly provided something for everybody.
It was inventive as well as having tried and tested. The small dishes provided seven choices including Hamilton’s own fish cakes with spring onion and mixed leaf salad and aioli, asparagus and watercress soup as well as crispy chicken with sweet chilli dipping sauce or pan fried chorizo with sherry, lemon, chilli and tomatoes.
There was also the alternative of four to share including nachos and antipasti.
Pam picked roast red pepper and chorizo toasts. It was tasty but pricy at £5.95 and my steamed mussels with white wine and garlic – I opted out of the cream – was an ample portion. The sauce, however, lacked real bite.
On to the mains. There were 11 large dishes on offer including a Scottish beef burger, a vegetarian option of roast red pepper and saffron risotto or seared yellow fin tuna with charred summer vegetable salad and basil pesto.
Pam selected organic chicken breast with black pudding, Jersey Royal potatoes, fresh lemon, sun blush tomato and watercress, cost £11.95.
My pick? I went for fish again, marinated sea bass with roast sweet potato, baby spinach and red pepper sauce. Charge £11.95.
We were advised to go for sides – an extra charge. Cauliflower cheese was £3.95 and charred local asparagus came in at £2.95.
And the end-product? The chicken, which came with the skin on, was moist but the black pudding greasy and the Jersey Royals were devoid of much taste. The cheese sauce on the cauliflower was tasty but did not appear to have impregnated the vegetable. Verdict: disappointing.
My sea bass arrived perched on top of the roast sweet potato – lovely taste and good mix – and spinach, but the red pepper sauce, apart from being eye-catching, also had a fine flavour. Nothing overpowered the delicate flavour of the fish. The asparagus – recommended – was ideal as an accompaniment.
We opted out of the various sweet options and left, but not before visiting the toilets. It is difficult to keep on top of things on a busy Saturday, but one has to take account of paying guests and the toilets were not as one would have liked for this type of establishment.
Also, cleanliness in the dining room must be of paramount importance. My table top was sticky and so was the one opposite. (Yes, I did inspect it. Sad, but the things you have to do as a reviewer).
You don’t expect that in what is being marketed as an up-market establishment.
My overall impression is that Hamilton’s is trying to cover all bases. The major appeal, in my view, is for the younger set with a disposable income. One look at the web site - their home page has blaring music – indicates that. It is packed with pictures of young people enjoying themselves, plus an offer or two.
I’ve got a family of three, the youngest one is nearly 21, and a business student at a local university. He might appreciate the hustle and bustle, but discerning diners, I believe, like a little more. Talking, an integral part of going out for a meal, was a tad difficult because of the noise.

MOSAICA: A HIDDEN GEM


Mosaica
Unit COO5
The Chocolate Factory
Clarendon Road
Wood Green
London N22 6XJ
Open: Thuesday to Friday noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Saturday: 7pm to 10pm
Sunday: 1pm to 4pm
020 8889 2400
www.mosaicarestaurants.com

Mosaica has been around for over 10 years, where have you been? That’s the opening line on the web page.
Answer: trying to find the restaurant. It’s not easy. The high fence, seemingly locked gates and ten-foot high brick walls fooled us.
So did the fact that you have to walk past a huge sign displaying a raft of companies and then speak to a receptionist.
That said, it was 100 per cent worth the navigational angst. I have one word to describe this: magnificent.
Sure, that is a huge compliment but head chef Steve Goode and his team, who took over the highly-rated restaurant last December have a gem here.
One of their mantras is: You’re only as good as your last meal. We’ll I’ll be back as my first was thoroughly enjoyable.
The laid-back atmosphere, decor – loved the eclectic mix of furniture and the candle grease dripping down the walls – and the slick service (including quality explanations of the dish and ingredients and the flexibility for dietary needs) were admirable.
Their web site mirrors the style in the restaurant created in the basement of a former chocolate factory. I quote: “Whether you prefer jeans or the little black number, you'll feel right at home in our laid back New York loft shabby chic.” Spot on, the mix on the night we dined was interesting.
Their food is sourced from London’s two world-famous markets, Smithfield and Billingsgate.
Another quote: “The meats in particular almost have to come with a birth certificate, we have to know the parents names. The fish is still in rigor mortis stage when picked up at 5am from E London.”
So, to the food, once cooked. The freshly baked bread – served with olive oil dip and balsamic – was a hint of what was to come. Individual is the best word to describe it.
The house style is British seasonal produce with hints of European eccentricities and the menu is changed daily.
Sath plumped, after much debate, for foie gras with red onion chutney, cornichons and toast. My pick was oak smoked Scottish salmon with pickles and black pepper.
Mouth-watering other options included parma ham with feta and lavender infused honey, char grilled asparagus with parmy (Parmaison) and leaves, bufala caprase salad, roasted Portobello mushroom with melted blue cheese or grilled Brixham sardines with gremolata.
Verdict: foie gras was sublime, rich and packed with flavour. Sath said he’d never tasted better. I had a slice and I’ll never eat supermarket foie gras again.
I’m Scottish and like salmon. The portion was ample and the pickles added extra bite. A good dish.
On to the main. Salt March lamb rump was Sath’s selection. It came with parsley mash and greens.
I plumped for rare old Gloucester ribeye with Kenyans (green beans). It was supposed to come with garlic mash but the mash has a dairy input. They instantly suggested sauté potatoes.
We could have tried Cajun loch salmon with truffle crushed potatoes and tenderstem, sword fish with chervil and butterbean broth, 21-hour roast pork bells with mustard mash and red cabbage, goats cheese, lemon and pine nut risotto, grilled seabass with fettuccine and cockles buerre noisette or Reg Johnston’s chicken with chorizo potatoes and wilted spinach. Innivative, interesting and enterprising.
We didn’t have room for pudding but the selection included English cheeses, Leagrams yoghurt with fresh mango, orange, honey and pistachio,
profiteroles with Belgian chocolate sauce, sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and ice cream plate (banana, deluche de leche and hazelnut).
Tempting yes but I have to watch my waist line. Overall, this could not be faulted apart from the jus with the rib eye. In my opinion, it didn’t quite complement the meat but both the lamb and beef were cooked beautifully.
The Mosaica also has a decent selection of real ales and foreign lagers as well as an extensive wine list.
They do take-away at lunchtime as well as sit-in. It’s busy so book but it is well worth a visit.

Friday, April 1, 2011

BORROWDALE GATES: A CLASSY RETREAT


Borrowdale Gates Hotel
Grange in Borrowdale
Keswick
Cumbria CA12 5UQ
017687 77204
www.borrowdale-gates.com

Colin and Joy Harrison thought about retirement before spotting another business opportunity on their doorstep.
They had watched the Borrowdale Gates Hotel climb to a peak and then slip backwards and the couple stepped in to buy the property three years ago.
The husband and wife team have spent a small fortune redesigning and refurbishing the three-star establishment.
Every detail has been considered, even the colour of the tiles and the matching bedspread.
Dressing tables have been specially made by local craftsmen – yes you can see the perfect join – and the effect in some of the luxury bedrooms is stunning.
They compare favourably with five-star establishments I’ve visited in recent years, but few have the view that guests at the Borrowdale Gates have from their bedrooms.
The 25-bed property is tucked away in a breathtaking valley at one end of Derwentwater, around 20 miles from the busy M6, and a minute from the quaint Lakeland village of Grange.
You leave the twisty main road and drive over a hump backed bridge before arriving at the spacious car park which nestles beneath the atmospheric Castle Crag and High Spy peaks.
The minute you walk into the hotel, which was originally built by a philanthropist in 1860, you feel at home.
That was particularly appreciated by me as I had just spent three days at the National Conference for the Federation of Small Businesses in the heart of Liverpool. Peace and tranquillity was what I needed.
A shower proceeded a quiet drink in the spacious dining-room while we ordered from the extensive menu. There was no pressure.
Head chef Chris Standhaven, who formerly worked in Michelin-star establishments, uses local produce, whenever possible.
There were eight starters. Roast tomato and basil soup, smoked salmon platter, chicken liver parfait, mango melon and feta cheese salad, duck, rabbit and ham terrine, warm goats cheese courgette, duck spring roll or seared scallops and white pudding.
Pam selected the chicken liver parfait which arrived with marmalade onions, a tasty dish.
I picked the scallops with white pudding after being was assured the pudding was local. The pair mixed well.
On to the main. There was an extensive choice including char grilled Cumbrian steak, pan fried monk fish tail, chorizo and bean cassoulet with tomato and basil sauce, honey-roasted Goosnargh duck breast, pan fried fillet of sea bass and, for vegetarians, taglitella Florentine with asparagus, free-range poached eggs and Parmesan cheese.
Pam picked lamb. The flavour was appreciated. My Cartmel Valley loin of venison on a bed of pickled cabbage was well-presented but lacked bite but the crispy pancetta helped lift the dish.
I’m addicated to Bakewell tart and there was only one choice for me in the sweet selection. Sorry chef. The tart required a lift.
Pam picked lemon mousse with shortbread. The mousse was excellent. However, the shortbread lacked flavour.
Coffee/tea and petit fours are included in the meal package and, once again, the pastry items were lacking.
Our room, with en-suite, was extremely comfortable and the view the following morning was memorable, low clouds shrouding surrounding peaks with vegetation awakening from the winter chill.
I went for a stroll before breakfast. Locals nodded good morning as they walked their dogs and the sound of birds and a local river, flushed with rain, crashing over stones, was heavenly.
Breakfast was superb. A wide selection of fruit and cereal followed by a choice of full Cumberland, fish and egg dishes.
When in Rome. I picked the full Cumberland. No complaints. The sausages were packed with flavour and the smoked bacon was superb. The black pudding was just right and the mushrooms – large ones - were a welcome addition.
A special local tea, which was most refreshing, boosted the meal and we dined overlooking the valley watching a selection of birds pick at several feeders carefully placed for residents to view.
New bedrooms are being added and the lounge has been updated. The bar, tucked discretely at one end of the lounge/dining room, has been replaced and the restaurant upholstered.
More improvements are promised over the next two to three years with a new wing set to be ready in January 2012.
Colin’s clientele mainly comes from a 15 million population cited in a three-hour drive radius which includes Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Liverpool and Manchester.
The Borrowdale Gates is building a reputation. In fact, many clients make regular trips, including a customer from America.
They love the laid back, homely feel. What’s more, they obviously appreciate Colin’s no wedding or function rule. This establishment is for residents plus a discerning drop-in trade.
He lives six miles away in picturesque Bassenthwaite and claims his drive to work is among the best in the world. I did the run along the south side of Derwentwater and it is stunning.
Colin and Joy aim for quality. For example, his carpets are hand-picked by Joy from a leading High Street retailer. Joy designs the decor, not a specialist.
And the couple, who have won a silver award with the English Tourist Board for the hotel, are not concerned about moving to four or five star, more about making you feel at home and well looked after. They and their excellent staff did just that.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

KONG: 25 YEARS OLD AND GOING STRONG


Mr Kong
21 Lisle Street
London
WC2H 7BA
020 7437 7341
Monday to Saturday: noon to 3am
Sunday: noon to 2am
CAPTION: external view
Chinatown, London. It’s a must visit and a great place to be but, as a tourist, your eye line is bombarded with lights, sounds and restaurant signs.
Just where do you go to eat? OK, you look at menus posted outside various establishments.
You can salivate at the array of duck in one and also view at the various testimonials in the windows of others.
But, sadly, that’s not guaranteed to provide a mouth-watering winner.
Sometimes, glitz is not best. I’ve tried several establishments in Chinatown on business trips and the quality of food has varied.
Word-of-mouth works in business and it was spot-on with Mr Kong. We loved it.
If you want a quiet meal, forget it. If you want top drawer service, Forget it. If you want good cooking, atmosphere and a piping hot food then Mr Kong is the place for you.
The menu has something for everybody, from plain, to vegetarian to exotic. We chewed over steamed razor clam with glass noodles and garlic of fried cuttlefish garlic sprout and Balechan sauce.
However, the consensus was to go for crispy aromatic Szechuan duck as a starter. It was cooked in its own marinade and then crispy fried. It arrived with wheaten pancakes, spring onion and cucumber accompanied by hoy sin sauce. The meat was tender and the food came piping hot. A great choice.
I’m not a lover of sweet and sour pork, but Jennifer is. The sauce was packed with flavour but not overpowering of the meat. I pinched a bit and enjoyed it.
Sath and I plumped for crispy chilli beef. The beef was beautifully cooked and the sauce was just right.
A steaming bowl of rice accompanied the dish and nothing was left over.
The place was packed on a midweek night. And, judging by the noise, and the happy faces, we weren’t the only ones to have enjoyed a great night.
It’s the second time that Jen and Sath have been to Mr King’s. They’re just back from a trip to Hong Kong and Thailand so they have some experience of traditional Chinese cooking in the Far East.
They enjoy Mr Kong. Trust me, it will be up there when we consider meeting in Central London.

Monday, February 21, 2011

SLOW BOAT FROM RATHO


Canal cruising
from The Bridge Inn
27 Baird Road
Ratho
EH28 8RA
0131 333 1320
www.bridgeinn.com
Open seven days

It’s a bitter night. The thermometer had plunged to minus 7C. It’s been snowing and the roads are treacherous. Not the best start to an evening and the lure of a dinner by the fire was strong.
However, we made the trip to the canal cruise from The Bridge Inn at Ratho and came away warmed by the experience.
It’s over 30 years since Pam and I had been on a similar cruise from The Bridge Inn situated in a village on the west side of Edinburgh.
That cruise was on Midsummer Night and was also memorable as we were stuck in the mud several times and we arrived home at 2.30am.
On this occasion the skipper also had problems. He had to back-up and turn on the power to break the ice but it was, once again, something we’ll not forget.
The attentive staff made everybody welcome aboard the 36-capacity craft and the Pride of Belhaven chugged its way up the Union Canal.
The floodlight on top of the boat lit up the banks and it was somewhat surreal as the ice cracked and the barge slowly made its way up the canal whose banks were covered in thick snow.
Thankfully, it was cosy inside the spacious cabin and the diners who called off because of the inclement weather were the ones who missed out.
I’d eaten the day before at 125mph on the East Coast main line train returning to Edinburgh from London. This was totally different.
The leisurely pace of the barge, in contrast, allows one to chill out and the smell of the food from the galley increased the experience.
Starters were considered as an accordionist played in the background, a nice touch for this Saturday night cruise on the eve of St Andrew’s Day.
Cock a leekie soup, partan bree topped with seared scallops or mini beef and haggis olives with red onion marmalade were the options.
Pam went traditional and the soup proved a winner. Piping hot and full of flavour.
Spot on for a cold night.
My beef and haggis olives were most enjoyable. The seasoning in the haggis was just right and the cold red onion marmalade added to the dish.
We then had four options for main course. Braised Borders lamb shank stuck out for me as a nap selection. I’ve savoured this dish at home and abroad and I was keen to see how this would match up.
Pam had more of a selection quandary. The homemade vegetarian haggis and char grilled aubergine parcel, wild mushrooms and tarragon sauce looked mouth-watering.
However, it eventually came down to a straight choice between skirlie stuffed chicken supreme with haggis tattie dauphinoise, whisky and Arran mustard cream or trio of Scottish salmon with orange zest and caper crème fraiche.
Pam loathes whisky and was veering towards the salmon but, eventually, chicken won and her fears over the sauce were misplaced. It was mild and added to the overall taste of the dish.
My lamb was wonderful. The meat fell off the bone and the red wine and herb sauce was perfect, bringing out the sweetness in the lamb but not overpowering the dish.
We both loathe soggy vegetable and on-board chef Lee Skelton must be complemented in producing broccoli, carrots and green beans which had just the right amount of crunch.
Thankfully, the staff gave us time to digest the first two courses before asking for our pudding selection.
Wild berry cranachan with shortbread was a possible or trio of Scottish cheeses but we both decided that warm spiced rhubarb strudel with ice cream was ideal for a cold night.
The sharp rhubarb taste was complimented by cinnamon, a brilliant mixture, however the double whammy on the taste buds did tend to negate the flavour of the vanilla ice cream and the pastry was a tad disappointing.
Coffee and mints followed. I always feel it is bad policy for a restaurant to just offer one cup. It seems so stingy and we were not disappointed here. A second was offered and it was accepted gratefully as we were about to disembark into the freezing weather.
The cruise took around three hours and I’d have no hesitation in recommending it, not just for the experienced but for the food.
It can’t be easy cooking in a restricted space and without all the equipment you would have on land. Take a bow Lee.
Rachel and Graham Bucknall took over at The Bridge Inn earlier in 2010. They have lived in the village for several years and are desperate to see the well-known venue climb up the culinary charts.
Long-term plans include turning the clock back with the decor – not before time – to make The Bridge Inn once again a country local.
They also, when possible, use produce from their garden including apples from the orchard for their apple pie and pork from their Saddleback pigs.
Plans are already laid to extend the garden and grow more produce. More power to their elbow.
The are working hard to re-launch the venue and their energy is to be commended. So is a night cruising, even in sub-zero temperatures.

Monday, February 7, 2011

HEAVENLY FOOD AT ANGELS


FLAIR: Chef Paul Whitehouse

Angels with Bagpipes
343 High Street
Royal Mile
Edinburgh
EH1 1PW
0131 220 1111
www.angelswithbagpipes.co.uk
Open seven days

EDINBURGH’S atmospheric Royal Mile houses an eclectic mix of historical attractions, tourist shops, restaurants, eateries and pubs.
During the world-famous Edinburgh Festival it is a major focal point for tourists and street entertainers.
The street also is also at the centre of Scotland’s legal system, being the home of both the High Court of Justiciary and the Court of Session.
It’s no surprise then that Marina Crolla picked the location, but the restaurant faces stiff competition.
A name can be crucial and she admitted agonising over Angels with Bagpipes. It arrived after spotting an angel during a walk through nearby St Giles Cathedral, the High Church of Edinburgh, which is directly opposite the 90-cover restaurant. Divine intervention?
Marina also thought long and hard over the key appointment of a head chef and she eventually recruited award-winning Paul Whitecross. Under his guidance, this heavenly restaurant is going from strength to strength.
Attention to detail is evident and he dishes are stunningly-presented. Paul specialises in using produce from Scotland’s extensive food larder then providing an Italian twist, a tribute to Marina’s homeland.
He doesn’t just pay lip service to dietary considerations. I’m lactose intolerant and he obliged in style.
My three courses were subtly altered to provide maximum flavour without diminishing the visual experience.
Seared Orkney scallops, Stornoway black pudding and pea puree (instead of parsnip, because of my diet) was eye-catching and mouth-watering. The scallops were cooked to perfection but my one criticism would be the sauce which was a little tart.
My main was roast rump of Ross-shire lamb, pancetta cabbage and white beans. Artistically a delight and the cherry tomatoes added a welcome extra colour and flavour to a superb dish.
Unassuming Paul saved the best to last. His raspberry soufflé was sublime. It arrived with apple sorbet (succulent Granny Smiths cut quickly with a touch of lemon to maintain colour and speedily frozen). The beautiful dish arrived with a tiny Kilner-type jar packed with raspberry puree – simply wonderful.
The meal was a triumph of innovation and flair by the award-winning chef who has tickled the taste buds of the late, great operatic tenor, Pavarotti, and international film stars Kevin Costner and Samuel L Jackson, plus the owner of car giants Ferrari.
My wife Pam was effusive in her praise of the busy, up-market restaurant. You feel comfortable and looked after by the accommodating team at Angels with Bagpipes.
So, what was her selection? The starter choice included lentil soup, a traditional Scottish dish, with unique twist, shaved chestnuts and truffle oil.
She could also have picked braised pork with white pudding and apple and creamed goats cheese with picked beetroot, apple and balsamic.
Pam also swithered over oak smoked Scottish salmon or terrine of chicken and foie gras but decided to wait for the main.
Her selection was roast cod, smoked haddock and chive potato scone, parsley oil and citrus salsify. It was, once again, beautifully presented and a delight to taste, the flavours merging to provide a tremendous dish.
Alternatives included rib eye of Angus beef with pesto plum tomato and garlic mushrooms, Highland loin of venison with pearl barley, turnip and bitter chocolate (correct) sauce, a risotto of butternut squash, sage and walnuts or pan fired sea bream, handpicked crab ravioli, creamed leeks and lemon butter sauce.
The extra payment for side dishes – buttered spinach at £3.50 and thin cut chips at £2.95 – grated, but that’s a personal thing and, of course, rates are high in the Royal Mile.
However, on to desserts. Pam’s choice was baked date and toffee sponge with puff candy ice cream, pistachio and banana. It could not be faulted.
Once again, the choice was difficult and it included apple and cinnamon crumble with green apple sorbet and a bitter chocolate mousse with passion fruit sorbet and caramel dusted popcorn. Mouth-watering.
Simply, Angels with Bagpipes is a gastronomic treat to be experienced. The hand-prepared main dishes (without sides which are ordered separately) come at a cost and ranged from £12.95 (risotto) to £20.95 (rib eye of Angus beef) on the night we were there, however, it is memorable.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

LANCERS: A FIXTURE FOR 25 YEARS


Lancers Brasserie
5 Hamilton place
Stockbridge
Edinburgh
EH3 5BA
0131 332 3444
0131 332 9559
info@lancersbrasserie.co.uk
www.lancersbrasserie.co.uk
Open daily: 12-2.30 and 5.30 to 11.30

STOCKBRIDGE is one of my favourite places in Edinburgh, an up-market village-style area within a lively, Capital city.
Lancers Brasserie has been a fixture in the area for over 25 years and it has collected a string of awards during that time.
It calls itself Edinburgh’s finest Bengali and North Indian Restaurant and the web site declared: “In choosing Lancers Brasserie you have paid us a compliment and set us the task of living up to your standards.”
It has been featured on Channel 4’s Currie Connection, is listed in major food guides and has been named as the best Indian restaurant in Scotland by the Good Curry Guide as well as being labelled one of the best Indian restaurants in Great Britain by The Guide to Edinburgh’s Best.
A Les Routiers Hospitality Award came the restaurants way in 2000 so expectations were exceedingly high, particularly as Lancers has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment.
Management hope the recent face-lift will ensure clients “enjoy the meal of your life”. That is a huge build-up.
Naturally, are expectations were extremely high. So, were we blown away?
Sadly not. Lancers enjoys a central location, minutes from the heart of Scotland’s Capital city, and it has style. The linen table cloths were beautifully starched, the cutlery spotless and the distinctive dinner service, with hot plates, a positive plus.
The food is good, the restaurant and toilets are spotless, and the modern decor definitely up-market and stylish, but little things count at the top end.
The lighting was too bright and the service, although slick, lacked panache. The menu is huge. It took time to digest but Pam’s starter, a house speciality of Lancers’ assorted kebabs, was wonderful. The assortment of tandooried kebabs melted in the mouth and none were too hot to handle. An ideal way to begin the meal.
I was, however, disappointed with the Murgh Cocktail. It looked delicious. Chicken minced with onions, special herbs and spices, skewered and barbecued tandoori murgh on a bed of salad.
Visually it looked good, however, the dish was on the dry side and, after the first of three cocktails, it became bland. It didn’t help that the lemon provided to give the dish added zest lacked liquid.
I was, however, uplifted by the main. There is a huge selection and, interestingly enough, there is a French, yes French, alternative.
I mused over several including Lancers classics including Badami Korma, a mild, delicate sauce of natural yoghurt, cream, almonds, coconuts, fresh herbs and spices, or Danask, a rate combination of herbs and spices prepared with lentils and pineapple, but eventually plumped for Khatta Tarkary. This is available in chicken or lamb. I plumped for lamb.
The meat was to taste and the sliced garlic, fresh herbs and tomato sauce was packed with flavour. The flavours merged deliciously to provide a wonderful main and the accompanying nan, coated with fresh garlic and coriander, was spot on. A delightful dish.
Pam was equally enthusiastic about her Shahjahani Murgh. The chicken plus almonds and sultanas was cooked in a mild sauce. None of the flavours was overpowering and the mix was intoxicating. A lovely dish.
Portions were just right and after two courses we were replete. Sweets were declined.
Interestingly, Lancers have a vegetarian dinner for one or two, as well as a number of vegetarian starters and main dishes on the menu.
They also boast a number of special meals recommended as a suitable introduction to Bengali and North Indian cuisine.
Also, the restaurant has two other dining rooms including a discreet one called the Officers’ Club with a separate bar for 20 diners. We enjoyed the experience and would return, but would hope that the little things were corrected to make Lancers an unforgettable experience.
PS: They also do a take-way menu. And it is extensive.