Saturday, January 12, 2013
KAZAN: ELEGENT DECOR AND GREAT FOOD
Kazan Restaurant
93-94 Wilton Street
London
SW1V 1DW
020 7233 7100
Victoria@kazanrestaurant.com
Lunch: 12-3
Dinner: 5.30-10.30
It’s a Sunday night and I’m walking towards my hotel on my own with the temperature dropping by the minute.
I’m getting hungry and have an avalanche of work to get through to a deadline so I think food.
Surprisingly in downtown Victoria, restaurants are closed, even at 6.30pm. I spot a Brazilian restaurant which is packed, a good sign, but the menu does not excite.
What about an up-market Italian? Nobody in and therefore no atmosphere and the menu is a tad fussy.
The Spanish restaurant I eyed some weeks ago which looked promising was closed and so was the up-market fish and chip restaurant.
Kazan then came into view. The elegant modern decor was eye-catching and the menu was inviting, even if the blurb was a trifle flowery.
Kazan describe their food as: “A rich tapestry of tastes and pleasures all perfected in the Sultans' kitchens from the Ottoman era.
“This infusion of history and taste has been brought back to life by our traditional Turkish chefs, recreating classic Ottoman dishes and creating new and exciting tastes we like to call Ottoman fusion.”
However, first impressions are powerful and, blurb aside, Kazan undoubtedly looked the part.
I was in a rush so one course was sufficient and they delivered. The service was slick and the food packed a punch.
Within seconds of ordering – yes, there were other diners – I had wonderfully flavoured Turkish bread on the table with a superbly garlic, olive oil-based sauce with a touch of chilli. A brilliant opener.
Then came the main. I was not disappointed. Earlier, I had asked for advice and it was given. They even took into account my allergy, lactose intolerance.
The waiter consulted the chef and returned with alternatives. I stayed simple and plumped for Adana Kofte, speciality from the south of Turkey, fiery red chillies blended with minced lamb char grilled, served with salad and rice or chunky fries.
Presentation was superb and the flavour? It flooded out. Nothing, however, was overpowering, even the chillies, and the mix was memorable.
Eating alone is never pleasant however Kazan make every effort to please without going over the top.
The atmosphere is just right and the spotless restaurant is one I’ll return to without hesitation.
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
CHOCK A BLOCK WITH NEW IDEAS
MyChocolate
Unit B1
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ
0207 269 5760
SUNDAY afternoon. I’m walking out of Chancery Lane tube station heading into the unknown.
The destination is a course in chocolate making. I’m in unfamiliar territory. Yes, I enjoy cooking, but making chocolates? That’s a different world.
It is with trepidation that I make my way towards a factory unit in a side street. The co-ordinates are pressed and I am welcomed into a reception area. It is clinical and unnverving.
Within minutes I’m joined by around 24 people – and a guide dog – and we talk excitedly about the prospect.
Most are chocoholics. Many drool over the prospect of creating their own to have a ready supply to eat. Others crave the secrets of making chocolates to extend their culinary skills. All eulogise about chocolate. It seems a compulsion, an obsession.
From my point of view there is only one other man, scary. We are ushered forward and walk down a flight of stairs into the basement and pick a seat. We make polite conversation and, thankfully, nobody seems to be an expert despite the fact that some seem to be accomplished cooks.
In strides Richard, our tutor. He explains the basics of the cocoa bean and we get to work.
We wash our hands, thoroughly, and then break up chocolate into a bowl. It is then whisked away for melting. When it returns and we get to work.
A chocolate biscuit is created using both plain and milk chocolate. It is simple, two tablespoons of plain chocolate and then a drizzle of milk chocolate.
After that, you could add a topping of coconut, hundreds and thousands or rose petals. No rules, design your own. However, the competitive nature of the delegates quickly became apparent so did the artistic skills, or lack of skills, of others.
We then split into teams to create chocolate balls with the addition of cream. This process is simple when you have an expert on hand.
But, boy does this process make a mess. I didn’t feel out of place as there was chocolate everywhere. Richard said the process would transport us back to childhood. He was so right.
Working in pairs, and against the clock, we filled a plastic piping bag – too difficult to wash chocolate from a muslin one, we were told - of the rich, dark mix.
Jenny, my partner for the exercise, then extracted the mix – about the size of a golf ball - onto the table and I rolled them in the cocoa, on the points of my fingers as the palm gives off too much heat.
Jenny cheated. Some of the chocolate didn’t make the mix. Temptation was strong and it ended up being eaten.
My grand-daughter would love this, I thought, as I rolled the chocolate and cream mix into balls and I dipped my imperfect chocolate shapes into the rich, dark liquid.
Removing them with a fork before then melted and without creating an almighty mess in an art. Much of the chocolate, I’m afraid, ended up on the table instead of the greaseproof paper.
But, we ended up bagging enough of our home-made chocolates to take them home as souvenirs. I forecast that they would not last long. They didn’t.
Everybody hugely enjoyed the experience, including the guide dog who lapped up all the scraps.
There were grand-dads, mums and daughters and parties of friends in our group and the excited chatter as we departed into the winter chill underlined how much participants had gained from the experience.
Me? Well, I’m determined to make some more. The effect is stunning and the effort minimal providing, of course, you adhere to simple principals. OK, my daughter just happened to mention what I had done to my grand-daughter and she wants to try. Surprise, surprise but a message for gran – be prepared for a mess in the kitchen.
The chocolate making workshops organised by MyChocolate are billed as an indulgent experience. They were for many on Sunday.
They are designed for corporate clients, team building or planning a hen party or for a gift experience and are run in London, Manchester and Brighton.
The two hours flew past. By the way, my chocolates didn’t last five minutes.
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
AL DENTE PUTS BITE ON TRADITION
Al Dente
139 Easter Road
Edinburgh
EH7 5QA
0131 652 1932
www.al-dente-restaurant.co.uk
Tuesday to Saturday 12-2
Monday to Saturday 5.30-10
Closed: Sunday
AL Dente is in the shadow of Easter Road, home of Scottish Premier League football side Hibernian who once entertained leading clubs, including Italian giants Juventus, in Europe.
Those days – for anoraks among you Hibs played Juventus in the UEFA Cup in October and November 1974 – are long gone now as Hibs, who are currently riding high in the Scottish domestic league, have slipped down the European rankings.
But the owners of Al Dente have taken on the challenge of creating the true Italian experience in one of Edinburgh’s less celebrated areas and lifting it high in the pecking order.
The restaurant has a head start. As Tinelli’s, it build a solid reputation for good, authentic Italian food over the past 25 years.
But Al Dente has new owners and is different. It claims to serve pure Italian food, unadulterated by cream or pre-cooked pasta, always fresh and delicious.
The menu is not extensive but has items to satisfy most tastes.
Duncan and I pondered while we enjoyed some olives. It proved difficult as this menu had twists.
For example the antipasti selection included steamed mussels with orange fragrance and pie with smoked Apulia cheese and baked fennel au gratin.
Eventually, Duncan plumped for baked figs topped with gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma ham.
I eventually decided on cabbage dumplings with minced pork and mushrooms served on a bed of mashed chickpeas.
The presentation was superb, particularly the figs. They were delicately wrapped with the ham which looked like a rose petal. And the taste was distinctive.
My dumplings provided a mouth-watering surprise. The cabbage was a fine accompaniment to the distinctive minced pork and mushrooms. It was a clue to what was to come next.
Al Dente’s food and surrounding is billed as being authentic of what one would expect in a traditional Italian restaurant. The surrounding, possibly, but not the food.
The secondi underlined that. Once again, the small but interesting selection caused healthy debate. I was tempted by oven baked terrine of cod pie with leeks, olives, broccoli and tomatoes served topped with grated mashed potatoes.
The sirloin steak stuffed with Parma ham and cheese with a porcini mushroom sauce served with roasted potatoes and vegetables was an attraction.
Duncan eventually picked the house special pasta which came enveloped in a thick, tomato sauce. It was filling without being exceptional.
My roulade of grilled swordfish steaks stuffed with pine nuts, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and raisins, served on a bed of barley and pepper with capers and anchovies was both eye-catching and innovative.
The beautifully cooked fish – I was assured it was fresh from a local fishmonger – was complemented by the barley. Not a mixture I expected but nonetheless a welcome addition to my gastronomic experience and one I may try at home.
Chef Graziano Spano sources produce locally and his menu will soon change for the winter.
He stressed the concept of al dente cooking as being very important to the restaurant.
Al Dente, means, literally on the tooth, and indicates a firmness of pasta texture, which is symptomatic of freshly cooked pasta.
His style is individual and is worth experiencing. The busy restaurant – with around 20 covers – also hosts theme nights which are extremely popular.
They are trying hard to build a clientele and I wish him well. He faces stiff competition not just from neighbours in Easter Road but nearby Leith, formerly a run-down area and now one bristling with restaurants and bars.
The slick service, good atmosphere and attention to detail, with food allergies catered for, and vegetarian options available, make this cosy restaurant one
to visit.
Friday, October 26, 2012
CASTLE TERRACE: DESERVES ATTENTION
THE CASTLE TERRACE RESTAURANT
33-35 Castle Terrace
Edinburgh
EH1 2EL
0131 229 1222
www.castleterracerestaurant.com
Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 and 18.30 to 22.0
Closed Sunday and Monday
TOM Kitchen formed a friendship with Dominic Jack when they were both young chefs working at the world-famous Gleneagles Hotel.
Now, several years on, the pair have teamed up to create The Castle Terrace Restaurant experience.
The name may be bland but this is more than made up for by the creativity of the cuisine.
This is refinement redefined, sophistication without being stuffy and culinary flair at the leading edge, showcasing the finest ingredients from Scotland’s world-famous larder.
The French-Scottish dishes have made this a haven for discerning diners and, since the restaurant opened in July 2010, it was won a number of awards including Restaurant of the Year and Most Innovative Restaurant.
It is easy to see why. The visual appeal of the food blends with a fusion of flavours. What’s more, Castle Terrace take attention to detail to an exceptionally high level.
They even created special menu to accommodate my lactose intolerance.
It was so appealing that several of my companions were interested in considering my dishes rather than options on the regular menu.
That attention to detail was evident as we chatted before lunch. Canapés arrived on individual wooden platters and were an indication of what was to come.
The caper berry was a mouth-watering surprise and the black olives and pepper bruschetta had me seeking more.
So, what was on offer on the three-course lunch menu? Three starters: freshly picked brown crab from Newhaven, served with mango, avocado and roasted red pepper or crispy Ayrshire pork belly served with figs and port or tartare of line caught mackerel from Eyemouth served with apple and ginger.
They all sounded wonderful but I eventually plumped for the mackerel as I was anxious to see if Mr Jack had succeeded in fusing an oily fish with the strong flavour of ginger and the sweetness of the apple.
It was certainly eye-catching but, sadly, I felt the flavours worked against each other. Others may differ.
The chef’s creativity was, however, shown to its full with the main. Poached fillet of North Sea plaice, served with “pink fur apple” potatoes was stunning in concept and superb in taste. I’ll not spoil the effect, but this was not how chefs traditionally serve flatfish.
Red-legged partridge from Tullybeagles Estate, served with cabbage, grapes, carrots and celery was another winner. My fellow diners enthused about it.
Me? I’ve been terribly disappointed with hake dishes in the past but I was confident this time.
The two tender roasted fillets of North Sea hake arrived on a bed of haricot beans and chorizo. Simple and effective to the eye, it was a delight to the palate.
There were three options to finish: a seasonal fruit salad, a selection of sorbet or pistachio and coconut soufflé served with pineapple sorbet. It was an easy choice and the soufflé looked as good as it tasted.
Mr Jack trained at Edinburgh’s Telford College. He then worked at the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel before moving up-market to a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris.
He was headhunted to be Chef de Cuisine at the Swissôtel in Istanbul before returning to his hometown of Edinburgh to link up with Tom Kitchin at award-winning The Kitchin in Leith.
Their passion and the restaurant’s philosophy - from nature to plate – is attracting a healthy clientele. The restaurant was busy and the relaxing atmosphere – with a subtle touch of tartan - added to the occasion.
That attention to detail even was maintained throughout and presenting the menu wrapped in a blue ribbon to guests as they departed was a pleasing touch. So was the explanation of each course.
The Castle Terrace Restaurant undoubtedly deserves attention.
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
SCOTTISH LARDER WITH A SUBTLE TWIST
Stac Polly
29-33 Dublin Street
Edinburgh
EH3 6NL
0131 556 2231
www.stacpolly.com
ROGER Coulthard has steered Stac Polly through the last two decades and it is easy to see why he has been so successful.
The owner/chef skilfully merges traditional Scottish produce with innovative ideas.
Clients obviously appreciate his creative skills as the intimate restaurant just minutes from Edinburgh’s world-famous Princes Street was packed on a damp Wednesday night.
Remember, we are in the midst of a double-dip recession.
Stac Polly – or in Gaelic, Stac Pollaidh - stands out just like the rocky crest in the North-West Highlands of Scotland which gives the restaurant its name.
Why? Because it is refreshingly different in style and substance. Sure, there is a tartan carpet throughout and cartons of whisky on the shelves.
The Scottish theme is, thankfully, understated. The subtle lighting, augmented by candles and neat floral arrangements, certainly adds to the overall effect.
Where Roger stands out is in the creative menu. Duncan and I took time to ponder.
However, I was particularly struck by the potential of duck, which I love, and pomegranate. I normally loathe the purple fruit which is a native of modern day Iraq and Iran and is now grown extensively in the Himalayas, Northern India and in the Middle East.
Duncan loves scallops but we are also intrigued by the warm summer butternut squash soup with ginger, watermelon and coconut milk, smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade, baked filo pastry parcels of finest haggis with a sweet plum and red wine sauce. The vegetarian offer was baked caramelised red onion and beetroot tartlet, goats cheese, summer leaves and pesto dressing.
Duncan plumped for the Loch Fine Queen scallops grilled in the shell and topped with a smoked salmon butter. They were cooked to perfection and the delicate topping of smoked salmon and citrus butter was perfect.
My carpaccio of spiced and cured duck breast, beetroot salad, cherry tomatoes, grated hazelnut, parmesan tuile and, much to my amazement, the pomegranate dressing was a delight.
On to the main. There were six choices. Rump of Borders lamb with aubergine confit and Stornoway black pudding in a red wine sauce excited.
So did breast of corn-fed chicken filled with Scottish brie and wrapped in Parma ham. Salmon, not surprisingly for a Scottish restaurant, was on the menu, on this occasion with fresh horseradish and herb crumble, but I’d enjoyed salmon for breakfast elsewhere so I passed.
Traditional or vegetarian haggis with neeps (carrots and turnips) and tatties (potatoes) were on offer but Duncan selected the rib-eye of Aberdeen Angus beef, smoked Applewood cheddar and onion gratin, caramelised shallot, fine beans with a wild mushroom and Burgundy cream sauce. He’s travelled the world extensively and has eaten the best meat on board ship in all parts of the globe. He adored the dish and has not stopped talking about it since.
I was intrigued by the use of pak choi with sea bass. The two dainty fillets arrived on a bed of cherry tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, fine beans, and pak choi, with red chilli and onion and coriander salsa. The softness of the fish fitted well with the vegetables but this was an interesting rather than a spectacular dish.
We declined the offer of sweets as we were satisfied. There were five, by the way. Lemon cheesecake, blackcurrent ice cream with red fruits coulis, dark chocolate tear drop and strawberry moose, vanilla pod crème brulee with Stac Polly shortbread, traditional Cranachan (cream, Drambuie, honey, oatmeal and raspberries) or Celtic cheese and home made chutney.
Stac Polly reached the heights for Duncan and the intimate restaurant with a strong pedigree certainly deserves a visit.
THAI MASTER CLASS
Krua Thai Cookery School
Liberton
Edinburgh
EH16 6AQ
0131 664 3036
www.kruathai.co.uk
Ru Herd looked at the milk pan in which my Pandan leaf had become unravelled and smiled. Hers remained in the white liquid, beautifully tied.
I knew it should not have happened but, typically, Ru encouraged constantly throughout my lesson. This was certainly not Hell’s Kitchen.
She puts you at ease. However, it is difficult not to be blown away as it is not every day you go one-to-one with a master chef.
Ru doesn’t just run a cookery school. She is a food consultant. Major firms come to her kitchen to create and refine dishes.
She has a client list with packed with names from around 20 countries.
What’s more, celebrities and world-famous sports stars have shared her kitchen.
This soft-spoken mum, who has a BA Hons and a myriad of cooking and culinary art, qualifications, also caters for a star-studded guest list and blue-chip companies for corporate events.
The list, and her achievements since arriving in the UK over two decades ago from Thailand, are mind-blowing.
So, there I was, an amateur chef, standing in her well-appointed kitchen about to create four authentic Thai dishes.
On the table were vegetables and fruit which I’d never seen. However, throughout the whole experience, I did not feel intimidated.
Rather, I was encouraged to cut, dice, select ingredients and cook four dishes. The proof of the pudding is in the eating goes the old phrase.
Well, you get a takeaway so your friends and family can sample the fruits of your labours over the hot stove in Ru’s kitchen.
What struck me more than anything else was the subtlety of her approach. All the flavours were balanced. Tasting was done constantly and a wee bit of this and that was added if she was not 100 per cent happy.
This was authentic Thai cooking. Some of the ingredients she uses are specially imported from Thailand and Vietnam – that’s how deeply Ru goes into detail.
I was introduced to Kra-chaai, Pandan leaf, aubergine – not the ones we are used to – Chinese chives and radishes, galangal, bean curd, Israeli basil – yes it is different - and even dried prawns.
We cut and used lime leaves and shrimp paste, created our own stock and I was even advised on which brands of product to buy in a Chinese supermarket. She even provided the locations.
Minute detail goes into quality cooking and Ru has this down to a fine art. And, speaking of art, every course delegate receives a stunning carved melon to take away. I was in awe as she does the carving.
My takeaway was in a box with a ribbon. Yes, Ru, who has worked in top hotels and restaurants, does that too.
And everything is done with a smile and an explanation. If you don’t understand then ask and remember, she will tell you when the vegetables or meat is not cut to her liking!
So, what was crammed into my session. I made four dishes. Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts – we even fried real peanuts which we crushed for this.
Fried rice with egg. Believe me, this was top notch and not difficult. Chicken red curry with galangal and lemon grass, and a superb dessert, cooked banana in coconut cream.
Impressive list and one which would wow any dinner party guests. And yes, you get to take away the recipes. One drawback, Ru is not by your side when you try to recreate these recipes in your own kitchen.
One thing which stood out for me was her organisation. All sauces were sited next to the cooker. All had wee dishes which could easily be accessed and preparation was crucial.
We also used only one pan the whole afternoon, apart from cooking dessert, of course, so this was economic cooking.
And we also made home-made stock. No, we didn’t add bay leaves and an array of vegetables. We just used parts of a carcass of a chicken and then strained away the fat.
This was authentic and the course was packed with hints and tips. The do’s and don’ts of cooking rice, a real problem for me, despite having a rice cooker, basically, I never get it right, were explained even down to simple measuring tricks for rice and water. This was cooking in the raw. It was both educational and entertaining and I loved it. You would too. PS: I’m now off to the Chinese supermarket to buy ingredients. I’m hooked.
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