I'M LOCKED INTO THE CELLAR DOOR

The Cellar Door
44-46 George IV Bridge
Edinburgh
EH1 1EJ
0131 226 4156
www.thecellardooredinburgh.com
Open seven days: lunch 12-3: dinner 6 till late: high tea 3-6: brunch (Saturday and Sunday only) 10am to noon

SOUTH African-born Ivan Leader has a passion for Scotland. That’s why he moved to Edinburgh, a city he fell in love with.
Currently, citizens of Auld Reekie, and tourists, are falling for his new city centre restaurant, The Cellar Door, which opened only five months ago.
It is housed in a converted from a former warehouse and the 50-cover diner sits in the city’s tourist area.
Just off the city’s world-famous Royal Mile and yards from the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the Skye Terrrier dog who reportedly spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray, until he died in 1872, the candle-lit restaurant offers an affordable option for discerning diners.
Ivan and his wife Morven are hands on. They use local suppliers and change the menu regularly.
They also like to surprise diners. A two course (£13.95) or three course (£17.95) surprise dinner menu is on offer. You are then at the mercy of head chef Eden Sinclair, however, nobody should worry. He won’t create anything that you can’t or won’t eat.
A static on the menu are main course grills. Prime cuts of Aberdeen Angus beef, hung for a minimum of three weeks, are offered, and the meat is sourced by Eden.
An 8oz fillet steak is £18.95 or a 16oz T-bone £23.95. Chateau Briand (for two) is £39.95 and the steaks are served with four choices of sauce including blue cheese.
Char grilled Perthshire lamb cutlets or organic Spring lamb are alternatives.
All seven starters appealed. Haggis fritters served with a whisky sauce was a possible along with salmon, lime and coriander fishcake with a celeriac coleslaw and a sweet chilli dressing were among them.
However, I couldn’t resist the grilled Stornoway black pudding and goats cheese salad served with a Somerset apple dressing.
The black pudding and goats cheese blended beautifully. A great choice. One of my companions was not disappointed by the haggis fritters and neither was the second with the soup of the day plus crusty, home-baked bread.
We couldn’t wait for the next course but it was hard to pick from the five mains. Stir-fried loin of beef with coriander style noodles, leek and smoked cheddar risotto, a home-made beef burger served with chunky chips and a choice of three sauces, including Strathdon Blue, or grilled fish of the day.
The fact that sea bass was on offer sold it for me. The fish nestled on the top of a mound of spiced new potatoes and buttered baby spinach. The flavours merged beautifully.
Pam tucked into grilled free range chicken with flageolet beans, smoked bacon and sweet corn. We also asked for a side order of home-made chips as my other guest, Chris, wouldn’t allow us to steal any more of his. He loved his burger.
The restaurant also boasts a ten cover, street-level patisserie specialising in quality cakes, confectionary and hand-made chocolates, all made on site by Petra, specially flown in from Germany.
What’s more, a varied brunch menu is available on Saturday and Sunday. For example, a traditional breakfast is £7.95 but if you fancy eggs Florentine and baby spinach and Hollandaise sauce on a bed of toasted, home-baked, crusty bread it is £5.95.
Simply, I’m now locked into The Cellar Door.

L'ESCARGOT BLEU, A TASTE OF FRANCE IN CENTRAL EDINBURGH

L’Escargot Bleu
56 Broughton Street
Edinburgh
EH1 3SA
0131 557 1600

www.lescargotbleu.co.uk

THERE is much to commend L’Escargot Bleu. The ambiance, its location, Rebecca, an impeccable manager, and the care and attention put into the food, to name a few.
However, there were irritants which worked against what could be a superb city centre restaurant.
Let’s start with the pluses. Pam’s Scottish asparagus and black pudding with grain mustard and herb crumbs was sensational.
The pudding was moist and the topping exploded in the mouth. A stunning starter.
My grilled fillet of red mullet served on a bed of baby artichoke salad with a walnut oil vinaigrette was eye-catching.
The moist, warm mullet, however, jarred with the cold artichoke, a disappointment. The vinaigrette was subtle and appealing.
There were five other starters including steamed mussels Basquaise with Roscoff onions, red peppers and tomato or chicken galantine with black truffles served with a Gribiche sauce.
On to the main. Undoubtedly, the owners stick to their slogan of a French twist using the best of Scotland.
Eight selections were available. I was particularly tempted by the gratin of Stirlingshire line caught pike and squid in Armoricaine sauce with baby spinach.
The braised ox cheeks with a la Bourguignonne with pancetta and mushrooms was appealing.
There was also the signature dish, Buccleuch estate whole rib of beef cooked to your liking and carved at the table, served with potatoes, jus and a green salad.
However, Pam plumped for duck au vin – yes duck – and my selection was home-made bouillabaisse with a fish selection served with aioli and croutons.
Sadly, the duck failed to excite. It was well-cooked but lacked significant flavor and the accompanying cauliflower – no cheese topping – was in marked contrast to the sweetness of the duck. The accompanying salad was superfluous.
My bouillabaisse was packed with flavor and the accompanying spoon was just the job for mopping up the excellent juice.
However, the green salad which accompanied it was lumped in with the sauce. Warm lettuce is not my favourite dish.
Furthermore, the grilled prawns, I felt, were out of place. I was assured later that they were included by the chef to provide rustic authenticity. I’d have preferred they were not there.
L’Escargot Bleu produces interesting food and is extremely popular, but needs to concentrate on fine detail to move it up a notch.

BOYLE AT THE DOUBLE IN BRITISH

SCOTTISH butcher Paul Boyle (pictured with his wife) celebrates winning TWO British titles by making more pies.
The Bathgate-based businessman, who has twice won the World Scotch Pie Championship, beat a record field to take the fish pie category and the vegetarian division at the British Pie Championships.
Boyle, 52, of Boghall Butchers, Boghall, Bathgate, won the fish pie crown last year with the same pie, a cod and white wine creation.
Last year he had puff pastry on top but this time he had to have a lid following a rule change.
That was the only alteration to the recipe for the pie he sells three times a week in his busy shop in the middle of a council housing estate.
His haggis, potatoe and turnip pie is hugely popular and is on sale every day.
Boyle, a former chef, said: “The vegi pie is a big seller over a big cross section of customers, from workmen in boiler suits to housewives.
“The cod and white wine pie is also a good seller, but not as good as the vegi one. We’re absolutely delighted with the double win.
“Last year we upped our turnover and drew a lot of new customers to the shop with our success in the British Championships. We’re expecting to the same this time.”
He added: “It’s great to keep winning awards. I’ve won the World Scotch Pie Championship twice, once in 2009 and also in 2005, and I’ve also won three British titles in two years.
“Winning keeps the name of the shop in the headlines and brings new customers from all over. However, we’re also proud to serve our regular customers who have helped us grow the business to a position where we now have nine staff.”
Scotland also claimed three runners-up spots. Stuart’s of Buckhaven, Fife, were second with their Apple Pie while Perthshire-based Simon Howie Butchers of Dunning was second in the Football Pie category. He supplies to Celtic Park.
And Nevis Radio were second with their venison pie made by Nevis Bakery of Fort William.
Over 20 top Scots piemen entered the British Pie Championships including three World Scotch Pie champions – the current holder, Murdoch Brothers from Forres, plus Stuart’s of Buckhaven and Boghall Butchers of Bathgate. This year’s event generated a record field of 122.
They submitted 713 products for judging – a 40 per cent increase on the first British Pie Championships 12 months ago – at the event in Melton Mowbray.
Fife-baker and butcher, Alan Stuart, founder of the World Scotch Pie Championship, now in its 11th year, said: “This is once again a testament to Scots bakers and butchers who continue to supply quality produce.
“Scots won four a number of major awards last year but the competition was tougher and the challenge was really on. We’ve won two this year and earned three runners-up prizes. That is tremendous and winning awards generates a tremendous amount of positive publicity with translates into sales.

FOR THE RECORD: In 2009, Paul Boyle of Boghall Butchers, Bathgate, won the Best Fish Pie in Britain title, A J Learmonth of Jedburgh produced the Best Savoury Pie in Britain, Macdougall and Hastie of Inverness with the Best Football Pie in Britain and the Best Apple Pie in Britain title went to Stuart’s of Buckhaven.

NOVELLO: A LYTHAM HIGHLIGHT

NOVELLO restaurant came onto my radar thanks to a personal recommendation from a local resident in Lytham, and Chris obviously savours good food and a relaxed atmosphere.
I enjoyed the experience even if I was dining alone. Novello is easy to find, comfortable and the service is slick.
What's more, the care and attention to detail was a massive plus for this family owned and run restaurant.
It is in the main street in the up-market Lancashire seaside town but prices are extremely reasonable.
The gourmet menu, for example, has a two course for £18.95 and three course for £23.95. When I visited, a free bottle of house wine was provided with the three course from Sunday to Thursday. Check for changes.
So what was on offer? King prawn cocktail with aioli and rocket salad, Italian antipasto with fresh bread. Believe me the bread is fresh as they bake it themselves daily and it has a subtle twist.
Caramelised fig and mozzarella and rocket. There is also fried baby calamari. Mains on the day were chicken risotto with mushrooms garlic and cream, spaghetti with king prawns and crispy sausages, chilli and garlic, seared sea bass with sauteed potatoes and a tomato and basil salsa or seared sirloin of beef with red wine sauce.
Sweets were Italian tiramisu, orange pannacotta or sticky toffee pudding with butter scotch sauce.
OK, your mouth is watering so what did I choose? I pondered long and hard but went off menu. The range is extensive.
The caramelised chicken livers with smoked bacon and balsamic reduction were interesting. The smoked bacon gelled with the balsamic and this was a dish to be savoured.
I was sorely temped by the Lancashire fillet of beef with wilted baby spinach and red wine sauce and by the pan fried duck breast with sauteed cabbage, creamed potatoes and a red win jus.
However, I plumped for the seared sirloin of beef minus the rich pepper sauce. It was the fat chips which swayed the decision. Sorry.
It was such a good experience that I ventured back a few weeks later. I selected the seared sea bass this time and was not disappointed.
The dish was artistically crated and looked wonderful with the colour of the tomato and basil salsa contrasting with the remainder of the dish. The flavours all merged apart from the salsa which was, for me, a little tart. However, I'd have the dish again if I make a return trip, minus the salsa.

CHINA ON A PLATE

Chop Chop
248 Morrison Street
Edinburgh
EH3 8DT
0131 221 1155

Jian Wang came to Scotland to ensure that her son Yin received the best possible education, now the enterprising businesswomen is educating British people in real Chinese cooking.
Her Edinburgh factory produces 500,000 dumplings a month for sale in major retailers like Sainsbury’s and in Chinese supermarkets throughout Britain, and her restaurant has received widespread critical acclaim.
Chop Chop is an experience. If you are looking for a restaurant to chill out in then go elsewhere, but, if you are looking for a gastronomic experience then book now. Why?
Well, are over 2,000 members of their culinary club and it has been packed since November when the restaurant was featured on the smash hit TV show the F Word.
Jian’s authentic Chinese food is totally divorced from the norm. We loved it. You are best to go for the set meal which allows Chop Chop virgins to experiment.
The subtle pork and coriander dumplings were followed by fried prawn dumplings. Mix your own soy and vinegar sauce and add raw garlic and chillies to enhance the flavour.
The lamb with cumin seed plus cucumber salad and small shredded potato salad was sensational.
The meat slid off the small sweet and sour pork robs and the aubergines were divine.
Crispy Northern beef and the tender green beans and chilli were also brought to the table.
For dessert We finished with fruit dumplings. All I can say is wow!

TRUE TASTE OF ITALY

Cheikhos Restaurant
12 Church Street
Lutterworth
Leicestershire
LE17 4AW
01455 559869

OCCASIONALLY you find a gem. When you do it is uplifting. There are unsung restaurants out there producing quality food at value prices but it is sometimes hard to find them.
Step forward FSB member Cheikhos, tucked away in a side street in deepest Leicestershire.
I’d never been anywhere near Lutterworth before. It is a market town of 8,500 inhabitants, the home of Sir Frank Whittle who invented the jet engine.
I arrived after a seven hour drive and not in the best of moods.
The weather was fair so I went for a walk to ease my legs and spotted the distinctive restaurant frontage.
A quick glance at the menu was enough to encourage me to come back later. I was not disappointed.
As I arrived some diners were leaving, all singing the praises of the chef. A good start. The extensive menu was mouth-watering.
I decided to go for gigot d’agneau, a braised shank of lamb surrounded with Mediterranean vegetables and a rich tomato sauce. The sweetness of the lamb was complimented by the vegetables and the sauce.
What’s more, the portion was so good I couldn’t find space for a sweet.
This restaurant is just off the M1 and well worth a visit. Vegetarian devotees are catered for. The choice included wild mushrooms sauted with shallots and garlic, a touch of cream and served on a medley of green beans lightly cooked in a citrus and black pepper butter.
Next time!

LEE RAJ WORTH A VISIT

Lee Raj: 23 Squires Gate Lane, Blackpool FY4 1SN tel: 01253 406300

RECOMMENDATION is often the best form of advertising for a restaurant, but sometimes it doesn’t live up to the billing.
The Lee Raj was mentioned to me by a colleague but I had continually driven past the restaurant and gone elsewhere. My loss.
It sits near the Starr Gate tram stop at the southern terminus of Blackpool’s world-famous trams.
The restaurant is on the corner of an undistinguished street near an extensive housing estate on the way to Blackpool’s busy business park and near the airport.
The external appearance, however, fails to do the restaurant justice. Step through the door are the place is immaculate.
Soft lighting, smartly dressed tables, cutlery discretely wrapped in linen napkins all adds to the overall appearance.
The service is slick but not overbearing and the extensive menu takes some time to digest.
The restaurant, which has been on site for around a decade, serves mainly Bangladeshi food.
And clients come from places as far afield as Manchester on a regular basis.
Read the on-line testimonials, including a Tory who was attending his party conference and made the trip from the North Shore, and visitors who took a tip from a taxi driver, and praise floods out.
Many diners describe it as the best restaurant of its type in Fylde. It is no surprise, with that level of acclaim, that this restaurant has a following.
I asked for advice and eventually plumped for a chicken raj ran hawei after checking regards my lactose deficiency (no dairy).
It arrived with a special sauce but the attentive waiter, without prompt, quickly switched it to another dairy free alternative with around 20 ingredients including mango, chilli and chutney before it reached my table.
The sauce was magnificent and the chicken moist. The accompanying salad could have been spiced up a trifle and, at £4.50, it was a tad expensive, but the dish was an ideal starter.
For main I plumped for a lamb jalfrezi with special fried rice. The lamb was succulent and the sauce packed with merging flavours, none of which dominated.
This dish was priced at £7.10 with rice at £2.60 and I retained some of the sauce from the starter. It proved an ideal accompaniment.
I was too full for a sweet and the bill, with a fresh orange, totalled £15.90. Perfectly acceptable for a quality meal in a well-appointed restaurant.
The Lee Raj is near the promenade and the wind was howling outside. The rain also battered down on the deserted pavements. It was a Sunday night to be by the fireside, but Lee Raj was busy. The restaurant was warm and comfortable.
I sat, however, across from a black plaque on the wall which said: “Your custom with Lee Raj is my fortune, your dining in Lee Raj is due to my ability, your happiness with Lee Raj is my pleasure, your satisfaction with Lee Raj is my desire.”
Pompous, yes. Necessary, no. The food does the talking for this hidden gem.
It stands out among the mediocrity which can be served up in Blackpool and I was well satisfied with my visit.
I’ve subsequently thanked my tip off man and I would have no hesitation in recommending it to others.
However, I might be cutting my own throat as it could then become much busier leaving me out in the cold on my next business trip.