THE LIFEBOAT INN: A SHINING LIGHT

The Lifeboat Inn Thornham Norfolk PE36 6LT 01485 512236 www.lifeboatinnthornham.com RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 4/5 BEER SELECTION: 4/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 5/5 WEBSITE: 4/5 TOTAL: 26/30 THE chill wind whipped in from the North Norfolk coast and the prospect of a blazing log fire proved irresistible. So did the thought of a thirst-quenching pint after a brisk walk near Thornham, near Hunstanton. The Lifeboat Inn came into view and so we pushed the door handle and entered. The oak-beamed bar plus the warm welcome from the barman and locals was a bonus and Duncan and I ordered two pints of Greene King IPA and Pam a shandy. They went down a treat. So much so, that we decided to stay for dinner and we have no regrets. The extensive menu made us think but the turkey escalope Milanese and tagliatelle proved a draw for Duncan. He didn’t leave a crumb. Pam selected smoked haddock risotto with leeks, shaved parmesan and a poached egg on top. It was a winner, the tastes merging to produce a memorable dish. As it was a Sunday I selected traditional roast beef and Yorkshire pudding with vegetables. The meat was cooked to perfection and the sauce, wonderful. When we arrived back at our well-appointed, three-bed holiday cottage in Malthouse Court that I looked up The Lifeboat’s credentials. The promise a delicious meal from their extensive menu served in the history-soaked bar or conservatory or elegant, recently renovated restaurant. They were spot on. The other benefit is that their food is locally sourced whenever possible. Venison comes from Houghton Hall, oysters, lobsters and mussels from Brancaster, seafood from King's Lynn and crabs from Cromer. The specials menu changes daily so we can use the best products when in season and they also have an extensive children’s menu. The Lifeboat has a long-standing reputation, a point underlined by the couple sitting next to us with two dogs who had been coming to the establishment for around 25 years. And I almost forgot the bar. It is recognised for selling quality real ales such as Woodfords Wherry (a bit flowry for my taste), refreshing Adnams and the superby creamy Green King IPA. They also boast a guest pump which changes regularly, providing local suppliers with a chance to impress. We were certainly impressed with The Lighthouse.

CURVESIDE: AN ENJOYABLE EXPERIENCE

42 Halford Street Leicester LE1 1TQ info@curvesidebistroleicester.co.uk 0116 261 9393 Monday to Friday: 7am to 3pm Tuesday to Saturday: 4.30pm to 11pm www.curvesidebistroleicester.co.uk RATING: FOOD: 3/5 AMBIANCE: 3/5 BEER SELECTION: 2/5 SERVICE: 4/5 TOILETS: 5/5 WEBSITE: 4/5 TOTAL: 21/30 FIRST night in a strange city and you are looking for somewhere to eat. You take a word-of-mouth recommendation rather than rely on a stab in the dark. The Curveside Bistro looked appealing, a bright, modern, family run establishment near one of the city’s newer hotels. We strode in. Sadly, there was nobody else in the well-appointed restaurant which didn’t really bother us, a part of seven. The menu was appealing with a range of intriguing starters. Pan fried scallops wrapped in pancetta and with a pea and mint sauce and flat mushrooms with dolce latte served with basil dressing were seized on by my colleagues. I stuck to basic tomato soup. It was distinctive and the remainder enjoyed their starters apart from one who was disappointed at the strength of the dolce latte. As to the mains, the roasted Mediterranean vegetables with mozzarella beef tomatoes served with tomato sauce appealed as did the chicken filled with brie wrapped in Parma ham served with honey lime and pine nut salad. Another colleague plumped for the shank of lamb with mash served with mint and caper sauce and several others selected steaks cooked to varying degrees. Sadly, the lamb was stringy, but the remainder, including the vegetarian, were satisfied. The service was attentive, the restaurant was spotless and the experience enjoyed.

GRAND DURBAR: TWO DECADES OF MEALS TO SUIT

Grand Durbar 294 Melton Street Leicester LE4 7PB 0116 266 6099 Open seven days (12-3; 6-11) RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 3/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 3/5 WEBSITE: 1/5 TOTAL: 19/30 THE blurb said this family run business had a fantastic reputation built up over two decades. That’s a huge claim and it had to be put to the test. I took the 15-minute taxi ride from the centre of Leicester was worth it. Grand Durbar sits on the city’s Golden Mile and first impressions are deceiving. It sits amongst a non-descript row of buildings and the small entrance hall to the 55-seat restaurant also includes a bar. The warmth of the welcome was encouraging. Again, the decor was not plush. However, the menu was extensive and the service slick. Any diet and allergy concerns were quickly alleviated. Meals were tailored to suit. My vegetarian vegetable cutlets were packed with flavour even if the accompanying side salad was basic. However, my Shashlick was special. It’s blend of onions, green peppers and tomato cooked in mossala spices was expeptional. So was the mixed vegetable rice. None of the vegetables, which included cauliflower, were mushy and all had a crunch. Durbar means audience chamber. We’ll, this chamber deserves a visit.

NEW DIMENSION AT DUCKS

Ducks Restaurant at Kilspindie House Hotel Main Street Aberlady East Lothian EH32 0RE 01875 870 682 www.ducks.co.uk RATING: FOOD: 4/5 AMBIANCE: 4/5 BEER SELECTION: 4/5 SERVICE: 5/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 4.5 TOTAL: 25/30 Ducks at Kilspindie House has recently introduced a new head chef, Allesandro Grillo, and a new sous chef, Alan Contigiani, adding a new dimension. The Italian-born duo both have experience in Michelin-starred kitchens and Allesandro looked to his roots when he created a new menu for the atmospheric restaurant. Flavours from his native country are included in the menu which offers fine dining in an intimate, relaxed and unstuffy environment. Ducks is delightfully different, possibly taking a cue from proprietor Malcolm Duck whose unique front-of-house style, coupled with a quirky sense of humour, makes this a memorable place to dine. Feast your eyes on this note in the menu which said: “Here at Ducks we have a simple code when it comes to cuisine and hospitality, fresh, flavoursome, home-made food, a warm welcome and a relaxing, enjoyable stay. We source the finest quality East Lothian ingredients and produce everything in house. Chef Grillo is simply a joy to work with (so he tells me!).” Could Ducks live up to the billing? The restaurant’s position in the picturesque, laid-back village of Aberlady, within minutes of some of the finest sandy beaches in Scotland, and in the shadow of world-famous golf links, including Murifield, home of the 2013 Open Championship, gives it a head start. But Ducks is so much more than a comfy retreat. It is a restaurant with surprises and delectable twists to excite the taste buds. So to the dining room. If I said the colour scheme was green – yes, bottle green in some areas – it may be off-putting to some. However, think again. Offset with linen tablecloths, the candle-lit, 26-cover dining room with a flaming fire, plus golfing memorabilia and pictures, including water colours, of the surrounding area, was like taking a nostalgic walk back in time. We went on a chilly, Tuesday evening, driving through fog on the 25-minute trip from Edinburgh. Not the best of starts, but we chilled out in the cocktail bar, brushing shoulders will locals, some in for a pint with their dog or on the way home from working in the city. We also noted the extensive range of whisky and that was simply explained. Ducks have recently been welcomed by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society as a partner bar so guests have the opportunity to sample 16 distinctive single casks which are usually only available to Society members and their guests. The intriguing á la carte menu at award-winning Ducks – recently awarded 2 AA rosettes for its culinary excellence - sources much of its produce locally. Most restaurants do so, what makes Ducks different? There were five starters the night we visited. Pumpkin and ginger steamed winter vegetable soup, steak tartare with lime cure, pear and mustard seasoning, cod Mantecato with roasted potatoes, Cerignola olives and chives plus lemon sole three ways and chef’s salad. Sole three ways was delightfully different and inventive, wrapped around Jerusalem artichoke and beetroot, butternut squash and thyme, salsify and basil and with a celery and orange sauce. The basil twist was particularly effective. Pam and I were both intrigued by the salad. It included Alexander Grass, turnip, beetroot, fennel, pineapple, clementine, pomegranate and sea buckthorn sauce. It took her down memory lane as she enjoyed the pomegranate when she was at school. I will not say how long ago that was. It packed a mouth-watering punch and the turnip, cut in thin strips, sat well and was lifted by the colourful mix. What’s more, the balance of the flavor was a delight and the clementine exploded in the mouth. This augured well. Creativity is the name of the game for Allesandro. There were five main offerings, two meat, two fish and one vegetarian. I was drawn to the duo of quail by the potential. Roasted, cider cooked apple, lightly fried, filo nest, tempura vegetables and sweet red vinegar sauce. Pam picked carved sirloin of beef. The dish worked splendidly, the succulent meat complemented by the much under-valued kale, wild mushrooms and roasted Royal Kidney potatoes. The vegetarian option was savoy and red cabbage parcels, Basmati rice, Gorgonzola cheese with a saffron sauce, or cannelloni of sea fish with chickpea and rosemary sauce with seaweed or fillet of halibut with roasted tomatoes, black olives and seasonal vegetables. Malcolm believes in Allessandro and it is easy to see why. Take the desserts. Traditional apple strudel with vanilla ice cream, sacher torte with mint sauce, white chocolate cheesecake with raspberry jelly, parfait of hazelnut, pistachio and walnut with honey sauce, Granny Smith bavarese with cider jelly and chocolate or rhubarb crème brulee. There was also a selection of cheeses including Scottish - Isle of Mull cheddar, Dunsyre blue and Lanark white – were available. Yes, it’s tough being a food critic, we were spoilt for choice. Pam couldn’t resist the temptation of the crème brulee and my lactose intolerance directed me towards the apple strudel. This one had a twist, thin slivers of apple were smothered in a delicious Jamaican pepper and caramel sauce. Coffee came with handmade petits fours. My allergy meant chef created a pineapple alternative which was interesting. Neighbouring Donald’s – named after Malcolm’s father - serves bar/bistro style food along with real ale, 50 to 60 malts and diners also have access to the extensive wine list which includes bottles with a price tag into four figures. Alternatives in Donald’s range from a cup of soup and a sandwich to a 40-day matured fillet steak from well-known Buccleuch Estates and it is designed for relaxed meal after, possibly, a walk along the beach. The area is also popular with birdwatchers. Both restaurants are within Kilspindie House which has 26 bedrooms all en suite with free wi-fi and flat screen TVs. Longniddry Station – which is on the main East Coast rail line from London to Edinburgh - is only 18 mins by train from the centre of Edinburgh with a free bus pick up so there is every reason to touchdown at Ducks.

CASA ROMANA, A REAL GEM

Casa Romana 5 Albion Street Leicester LE1 6GD www.casaromana.co.uk Open six days for lunch and dinner 0116 2541174 RATING: FOOD: 5/5 AMBIANCE: 5/5 BEER SELECTION: 3/5 SERVICE: 4/5 TOILETS: 4/5 WEBSITE: 3/5 TOTAL: 24/30 It’s my last night in Leicester after attending the FSB’s National Conference and I go for a stroll to get some air. I take a wrong turning into a deserted side street but see a green door. Interesting? There is no sign outside but I catch a glimpse of wine bottles. Suddenly, a shirt sleeved man appears. I asked: “Is this a restaurant?” He replied: “It is.” I was intrigued so I follow him inside and I don’t regret the move. Casa Romana is a real gem. And the atmosphere inside the family-run restaurant is second-to-none. If I lived in Leicester I would be a frequent visitor it was that good. The food is superb. There were 12 starters on offer on the snowy, March night I dined there. I was tempted by the tuna and bean salad or pasta, and noodles with Italian sausage, tomatoes and cream a big draw but, as there was a chill in the air, I selected Minestrone soup and was not disappointed. Yes, it had the usual tomatoes, onions, garlic and celery but parsnip gave this dish an extra dimension. What’s more, the vegetables had real bite which added to the experience. The accompanying bread, with its crunchy crust, was perfect. Service was slick, after an initial hiccup over the order, and my main followed after much deliberation. Yes, I was tempted by medallions of fillet steak with peas in a mushroom and brandy sauce with tomatoes and a touch of cream was mouth-watering. Calves liver pan fried in lemon zest and butter was also an attraction but the grilled sea bream with a side salad and chips appealed more. Once again, it was simple but effective. The fish was drizzled with olive oil and a squirt of lemon added to the flavour. The green salad, dressed with olive oil, cider vinegar and oregano, was an ideal accompaniment to the soft-flavoured fish. And the thin-cut chips, well, they were perfect. The maddening thing is for me is that this was my last night and the chances of a re-visit are slim. However, if you live nearby then you should pay a visit.

KAZAN: ELEGENT DECOR AND GREAT FOOD

Kazan Restaurant 93-94 Wilton Street London SW1V 1DW 020 7233 7100 Victoria@kazanrestaurant.com Lunch: 12-3 Dinner: 5.30-10.30 It’s a Sunday night and I’m walking towards my hotel on my own with the temperature dropping by the minute. I’m getting hungry and have an avalanche of work to get through to a deadline so I think food. Surprisingly in downtown Victoria, restaurants are closed, even at 6.30pm. I spot a Brazilian restaurant which is packed, a good sign, but the menu does not excite. What about an up-market Italian? Nobody in and therefore no atmosphere and the menu is a tad fussy. The Spanish restaurant I eyed some weeks ago which looked promising was closed and so was the up-market fish and chip restaurant. Kazan then came into view. The elegant modern decor was eye-catching and the menu was inviting, even if the blurb was a trifle flowery. Kazan describe their food as: “A rich tapestry of tastes and pleasures all perfected in the Sultans' kitchens from the Ottoman era. “This infusion of history and taste has been brought back to life by our traditional Turkish chefs, recreating classic Ottoman dishes and creating new and exciting tastes we like to call Ottoman fusion.” However, first impressions are powerful and, blurb aside, Kazan undoubtedly looked the part. I was in a rush so one course was sufficient and they delivered. The service was slick and the food packed a punch. Within seconds of ordering – yes, there were other diners – I had wonderfully flavoured Turkish bread on the table with a superbly garlic, olive oil-based sauce with a touch of chilli. A brilliant opener. Then came the main. I was not disappointed. Earlier, I had asked for advice and it was given. They even took into account my allergy, lactose intolerance. The waiter consulted the chef and returned with alternatives. I stayed simple and plumped for Adana Kofte, speciality from the south of Turkey, fiery red chillies blended with minced lamb char grilled, served with salad and rice or chunky fries. Presentation was superb and the flavour? It flooded out. Nothing, however, was overpowering, even the chillies, and the mix was memorable. Eating alone is never pleasant however Kazan make every effort to please without going over the top. The atmosphere is just right and the spotless restaurant is one I’ll return to without hesitation.

CHOCK A BLOCK WITH NEW IDEAS

MyChocolate

Unit B1
Hatton Square Business Centre
16-16A Baldwins Gardens
London, EC1N 7RJ

0207 269 5760

www.mychocolate.co.uk

 

SUNDAY afternoon. I’m walking out of Chancery Lane tube station heading into the unknown.

The destination is a course in chocolate making. I’m in unfamiliar territory. Yes, I enjoy cooking, but making chocolates? That’s a different world.

It is with trepidation that I make my way towards a factory unit in a side street. The co-ordinates are pressed and I am welcomed into a reception area. It is clinical and unnverving.

Within minutes I’m joined by around 24 people – and a guide dog – and we talk excitedly about the prospect.

Most are chocoholics. Many drool over the prospect of creating their own to have a ready supply to eat. Others crave the secrets of making chocolates to extend their culinary skills. All eulogise about chocolate. It seems a compulsion, an obsession. 

From my point of view there is only one other man, scary. We are ushered forward and walk down a flight of stairs into the basement and pick a seat. We make polite conversation and, thankfully, nobody seems to be an expert despite the fact that some seem to be accomplished cooks.

In strides Richard, our tutor. He explains the basics of the cocoa bean and we get to work.

We wash our hands, thoroughly, and then break up chocolate into a bowl. It is then whisked away for melting. When it returns and we get to work.

A chocolate biscuit is created using both plain and milk chocolate. It is simple, two tablespoons of plain chocolate and then a drizzle of milk chocolate.

After that, you could add a topping of coconut, hundreds and thousands or rose petals. No rules, design your own. However, the competitive nature of the delegates quickly became apparent so did the artistic skills, or lack of skills, of others.

We then split into teams to create chocolate balls with the addition of cream. This process is simple when you have an expert on hand.

But, boy does this process make a mess. I didn’t feel out of place as there was chocolate everywhere. Richard said the process would transport us back to childhood. He was so right.

Working in pairs, and against the clock, we filled a plastic piping bag – too difficult to wash chocolate from a muslin one, we were told - of the rich, dark mix.

Jenny, my partner for the exercise, then extracted the mix – about the size of a golf ball - onto the table and I rolled them in the cocoa, on the points of my fingers as the palm gives off too much heat.

Jenny cheated. Some of the chocolate didn’t make the mix. Temptation was strong and it ended up being eaten.

My grand-daughter would love this, I thought, as I rolled the chocolate and cream mix into balls and I dipped my imperfect chocolate shapes into the rich, dark liquid.

Removing them with a fork before then melted and without creating an almighty mess in an art. Much of the chocolate, I’m afraid, ended up on the table instead of the greaseproof paper.

But, we ended up bagging enough of our home-made chocolates to take them home as souvenirs. I forecast that they would not last long. They didn’t.

Everybody hugely enjoyed the experience, including the guide dog who lapped up all the scraps.

There were grand-dads, mums and daughters and parties of friends in our group and the excited chatter as we departed into the winter chill underlined how much participants had gained from the experience.

Me? Well, I’m determined to make some more. The effect is stunning and the effort minimal providing, of course, you adhere to simple principals. OK, my daughter just happened to mention what I had done to my grand-daughter and she wants to try. Surprise, surprise but a message for gran – be prepared for a mess in the kitchen.

The chocolate making workshops organised by MyChocolate are billed as an indulgent experience. They were for many on Sunday.

They are designed for corporate clients, team building or planning a hen party or for a gift experience and are run in London, Manchester and Brighton.

The two hours flew past. By the way, my chocolates didn’t last five minutes.

AL DENTE PUTS BITE ON TRADITION

Al Dente 139 Easter Road Edinburgh EH7 5QA 0131 652 1932 www.al-dente-restaurant.co.uk Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 Monday to Saturday 5.30-10 Closed: Sunday AL Dente is in the shadow of Easter Road, home of Scottish Premier League football side Hibernian who once entertained leading clubs, including Italian giants Juventus, in Europe. Those days – for anoraks among you Hibs played Juventus in the UEFA Cup in October and November 1974 – are long gone now as Hibs, who are currently riding high in the Scottish domestic league, have slipped down the European rankings. But the owners of Al Dente have taken on the challenge of creating the true Italian experience in one of Edinburgh’s less celebrated areas and lifting it high in the pecking order. The restaurant has a head start. As Tinelli’s, it build a solid reputation for good, authentic Italian food over the past 25 years. But Al Dente has new owners and is different. It claims to serve pure Italian food, unadulterated by cream or pre-cooked pasta, always fresh and delicious. The menu is not extensive but has items to satisfy most tastes. Duncan and I pondered while we enjoyed some olives. It proved difficult as this menu had twists. For example the antipasti selection included steamed mussels with orange fragrance and pie with smoked Apulia cheese and baked fennel au gratin. Eventually, Duncan plumped for baked figs topped with gorgonzola and wrapped in Parma ham. I eventually decided on cabbage dumplings with minced pork and mushrooms served on a bed of mashed chickpeas. The presentation was superb, particularly the figs. They were delicately wrapped with the ham which looked like a rose petal. And the taste was distinctive. My dumplings provided a mouth-watering surprise. The cabbage was a fine accompaniment to the distinctive minced pork and mushrooms. It was a clue to what was to come next. Al Dente’s food and surrounding is billed as being authentic of what one would expect in a traditional Italian restaurant. The surrounding, possibly, but not the food. The secondi underlined that. Once again, the small but interesting selection caused healthy debate. I was tempted by oven baked terrine of cod pie with leeks, olives, broccoli and tomatoes served topped with grated mashed potatoes. The sirloin steak stuffed with Parma ham and cheese with a porcini mushroom sauce served with roasted potatoes and vegetables was an attraction. Duncan eventually picked the house special pasta which came enveloped in a thick, tomato sauce. It was filling without being exceptional. My roulade of grilled swordfish steaks stuffed with pine nuts, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and raisins, served on a bed of barley and pepper with capers and anchovies was both eye-catching and innovative. The beautifully cooked fish – I was assured it was fresh from a local fishmonger – was complemented by the barley. Not a mixture I expected but nonetheless a welcome addition to my gastronomic experience and one I may try at home. Chef Graziano Spano sources produce locally and his menu will soon change for the winter. He stressed the concept of al dente cooking as being very important to the restaurant. Al Dente, means, literally on the tooth, and indicates a firmness of pasta texture, which is symptomatic of freshly cooked pasta. His style is individual and is worth experiencing. The busy restaurant – with around 20 covers – also hosts theme nights which are extremely popular. They are trying hard to build a clientele and I wish him well. He faces stiff competition not just from neighbours in Easter Road but nearby Leith, formerly a run-down area and now one bristling with restaurants and bars. The slick service, good atmosphere and attention to detail, with food allergies catered for, and vegetarian options available, make this cosy restaurant one to visit.

CASTLE TERRACE: DESERVES ATTENTION

THE CASTLE TERRACE RESTAURANT 33-35 Castle Terrace Edinburgh EH1 2EL 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com Tuesday to Saturday 12-2 and 18.30 to 22.0 Closed Sunday and Monday TOM Kitchen formed a friendship with Dominic Jack when they were both young chefs working at the world-famous Gleneagles Hotel. Now, several years on, the pair have teamed up to create The Castle Terrace Restaurant experience. The name may be bland but this is more than made up for by the creativity of the cuisine. This is refinement redefined, sophistication without being stuffy and culinary flair at the leading edge, showcasing the finest ingredients from Scotland’s world-famous larder. The French-Scottish dishes have made this a haven for discerning diners and, since the restaurant opened in July 2010, it was won a number of awards including Restaurant of the Year and Most Innovative Restaurant. It is easy to see why. The visual appeal of the food blends with a fusion of flavours. What’s more, Castle Terrace take attention to detail to an exceptionally high level. They even created special menu to accommodate my lactose intolerance. It was so appealing that several of my companions were interested in considering my dishes rather than options on the regular menu. That attention to detail was evident as we chatted before lunch. Canapés arrived on individual wooden platters and were an indication of what was to come. The caper berry was a mouth-watering surprise and the black olives and pepper bruschetta had me seeking more. So, what was on offer on the three-course lunch menu? Three starters: freshly picked brown crab from Newhaven, served with mango, avocado and roasted red pepper or crispy Ayrshire pork belly served with figs and port or tartare of line caught mackerel from Eyemouth served with apple and ginger. They all sounded wonderful but I eventually plumped for the mackerel as I was anxious to see if Mr Jack had succeeded in fusing an oily fish with the strong flavour of ginger and the sweetness of the apple. It was certainly eye-catching but, sadly, I felt the flavours worked against each other. Others may differ. The chef’s creativity was, however, shown to its full with the main. Poached fillet of North Sea plaice, served with “pink fur apple” potatoes was stunning in concept and superb in taste. I’ll not spoil the effect, but this was not how chefs traditionally serve flatfish. Red-legged partridge from Tullybeagles Estate, served with cabbage, grapes, carrots and celery was another winner. My fellow diners enthused about it. Me? I’ve been terribly disappointed with hake dishes in the past but I was confident this time. The two tender roasted fillets of North Sea hake arrived on a bed of haricot beans and chorizo. Simple and effective to the eye, it was a delight to the palate. There were three options to finish: a seasonal fruit salad, a selection of sorbet or pistachio and coconut soufflé served with pineapple sorbet. It was an easy choice and the soufflé looked as good as it tasted. Mr Jack trained at Edinburgh’s Telford College. He then worked at the Michelin-starred Fleur de Sel before moving up-market to a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris. He was headhunted to be Chef de Cuisine at the Swissôtel in Istanbul before returning to his hometown of Edinburgh to link up with Tom Kitchin at award-winning The Kitchin in Leith. Their passion and the restaurant’s philosophy - from nature to plate – is attracting a healthy clientele. The restaurant was busy and the relaxing atmosphere – with a subtle touch of tartan - added to the occasion. That attention to detail even was maintained throughout and presenting the menu wrapped in a blue ribbon to guests as they departed was a pleasing touch. So was the explanation of each course. The Castle Terrace Restaurant undoubtedly deserves attention.

CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED

CRUISING IN GRANDEUR AROUND THE MED Grandeur of the Seas

Royal Caribbean Review by Nigel Duncan Quick look What to see Eating Out Sleepover Getting there IT is 7am. The Grandeur of the Seas is entering the Bay of Naples. On the starboard side is the world-famous volcano Vesuvius and on the port side the rugged Italian coastline. Nine of us are jogging on deck ten. The sun is about to rise and the temperature is 28C. It’s tough going completing two miles – eight times around the deck - as the humidity level is high. However, the view is stunning. It’s unlikely I’ll ever have a more memorable place to run. Less than an hour later we’ve docked and hundreds of us on the 2,446-capacity ship walk into town, women for retail therapy and men running the gauntlet of the street trader and the enthusiastic taxi men always eager to negotiate. We were spared the pushy salesmen in the other ports we visited but, for some, that is part of the allure of cruising. What to see: Part of the appeal of a cruise is waking up in another port. We called at five ports and the French city of Marseilles which was the only place where we had to take a bus as the ship was docked a distance from the town. The quayside fish market was disappointing after all I’ve heard about it but, if you are prepared to walk, then this bustling port is an ideal place to wander. A little train can take the strain for those less energetic. Typical French architecture, wide streets, atmospheric buildings and, for the ladies, a great shopping experience, with world-wide brands to the fore, make this an ideal stop-over. Take a brolly as we were caught in a horrendous cloudburst when the streets were flooded in seconds. One hour later the sun was out and everything was back to normal. Corsica was our next port of call, 210 miles south-east of Marseilles, and we docked at the capital, Ajaccio on a sparking day. The train trip of around 90 minutes takes you in and around the West Coast town - there seemed to be statues of Napoleon on every street - but this excursion went further, along the coastline and through several resorts, perfect for people tempted to plan a holiday here. It ended at Napoleon’s, four-storey, birthplace. Naples was next. We docked in scorching temperatures but, as I’d been there before, we decided to go walkabout, firstly to the main shopping streets, and then, when it became too hot, meandering back to the ship through narrow and shaded side-streets. Off the beaten track, Naples has a charm. Men playing cards, groups of locals sitting chatting, washing lines from one side of the street to the other, people rowing – loudly - and wonderful little shops selling everything from pastry to pizza to hand-made souvenirs. We picked up several gifts at decent prices because we were off the main track and the walk opened my eyes about the busy city. Sicily was next with Catania, underneath Mount Etna, chosen. The town has a long, eventful history and is now one of the main economic, tourism and education centers on the island. The fruit market is a delight – huge tomatoes and watermelons – but the noisy fish market is brim full of characters as well as a staggering array of fish. It was a highlight and the pavement cafes offer an ideal place to sit and watch the world go by and the huge outdoor market – food, including cheese and meat plus shoes, at staggeringly low prices - is a magnet for locals and tourists. Malta was out final destination with Valetta the harbour. The capital is home to around 7,000 people and it is easy to see why the 16th-century Baroque architecture made it a World Heritage Site. We took a short taxi ride from the dock to the centre – five minutes – and then wandered. The car-free streets made this a joy to stroll around and the shops – including several well-known brands – were augmented by local traders selling a range of goods, including jewellery. A local market was also available with keen prices. Eating out: Facilities on board are second-to-none. A recent, five-week, $48m refit has doubled the number of restaurants, Grandeur of the Seas is the eighth ship within Royal Caribbean International’s 22 strong fleet to undergo planned revitalisation. The re-furbishment included increasing the dining options onboard which have nearly doubled with the addition of five restaurants They include: Giovanni’s Table: An Italian trattoria featuring Italian classics served family-style Izumi: Featuring a sushi bar with hot-rock cooking Park Café: An indoor/outdoor gourmet market featuring salads, sandwiches, soups and pastries (No additional cost) Chef’s Table: An exclusive and private experience co-hosted by the executive Chef and Sommelier for a wine pairing dinner of five courses Chops Grille: Royal Caribbean International’s signature steakhouse featuring a menu of prime cuts. The speciality restaurants onboard incur an additional cost - guests have the option of choosing from several different dining packages which range from $50 to $120 per guest - all the main and buffet restaurants are included within the price of the cruise. And they are good. Surprisingly, the Windjammer Restaurant proved the most consistent, topping the main dining room. The range of food served from early to late was stunning. The crew – made up of over 50 nationalities – made sure of that. From breakfast to dinner, they had something to excite the palate. Freshly-cooked omelettes were a speciality (with eight fillings to pick from) and the Chinese chef made them into a work of art. The fruit and cereal collection, plus cold buffet (with salmon) was enough for anybody, even those with allergies. Yes, soya milk was available along with a choice of wheat-free bread. The League of Nations crew in the kitchen made lunch a constant draw. Chinese stir fry, Italian hunters stew, roast brisket and roast pork (with apple sauce) and a huge array of salads. They were superb. The soup, made with home-made stock, was consistently good and my particular favourite was minestrone. It was packed with flavour. And the sweets. There were normally around four plus fruit and were eye-catching. They normally tasted as good as they looked, particularly the almond cake and banana and coconut slice. Service in the main dining room was slick. We were fortunate. Kanga from St Vincent provided a wealth of information as well as being a quick wit. Advesh from Delhi was quietly efficient but also had a keen sense of humour. My niece didn’t want a sweet one evening. Not to be left out he placed a plate at her position with the word nothing discreetly iced on it. A nice touch. You had to watch your waistline, but jogging around the deck helped with that. The constant supply of coffee, teas – including speciality – and water on deck nine made it hard to complain. Sleepover: The quality of the cabins – with ensuite – was spot on. They were not big but more than adequate with cunning cupboards and more than enough storage space. Little things count and, in the evening, the cabin attendant normally created a sculpture from the linen. One night a monkey, the next an elephant. The en suite shower room was equipped with a surprisingly strong flow of water. The only disappointment was the lack of stations on the TV and the daily updates on the ship video channel were memorable by their mediocrity. Entertainment: A new baby and toddler nursery has been incorporated as part of the refit as well as a giant outdoor cinema screen. The Centrum – a giant atrium in the centre of the ship - has been transformed into a major entertainment area featuring a range of daytime activities, nightly shows and aerial performers. Sadly, the live showtime performances in the Atrium area failed to live up to the billing. It was the same in the superbly-equipped, on-board theatre. The entertainment, apart from Scottish singer Brenda Cochrane, who knew how to work an audience made up of several different nationalities, was disappointing. The well-equipped ships gym has all most need for a decent workout and the classes were tailor-made to suit participants. I know, I did one about keeping the body in shape. Refreshments: We had one major gripe – the price of drinks. It was OTT and other passengers, who had cruised with other companies, were not amused. Think again Royal Caribbean. Getting there: Easy, flight from Glasgow to Palma and a 20 minute bus trip to the quayside. Overall: We loved life on board and would do another cruise, mainly because of the variety of stop-overs and the food.

SCOTTISH LARDER WITH A SUBTLE TWIST

Stac Polly 29-33 Dublin Street Edinburgh EH3 6NL 0131 556 2231 www.stacpolly.com ROGER Coulthard has steered Stac Polly through the last two decades and it is easy to see why he has been so successful. The owner/chef skilfully merges traditional Scottish produce with innovative ideas. Clients obviously appreciate his creative skills as the intimate restaurant just minutes from Edinburgh’s world-famous Princes Street was packed on a damp Wednesday night. Remember, we are in the midst of a double-dip recession. Stac Polly – or in Gaelic, Stac Pollaidh - stands out just like the rocky crest in the North-West Highlands of Scotland which gives the restaurant its name. Why? Because it is refreshingly different in style and substance. Sure, there is a tartan carpet throughout and cartons of whisky on the shelves. The Scottish theme is, thankfully, understated. The subtle lighting, augmented by candles and neat floral arrangements, certainly adds to the overall effect. Where Roger stands out is in the creative menu. Duncan and I took time to ponder. However, I was particularly struck by the potential of duck, which I love, and pomegranate. I normally loathe the purple fruit which is a native of modern day Iraq and Iran and is now grown extensively in the Himalayas, Northern India and in the Middle East. Duncan loves scallops but we are also intrigued by the warm summer butternut squash soup with ginger, watermelon and coconut milk, smoked salmon and Arbroath smokie roulade, baked filo pastry parcels of finest haggis with a sweet plum and red wine sauce. The vegetarian offer was baked caramelised red onion and beetroot tartlet, goats cheese, summer leaves and pesto dressing. Duncan plumped for the Loch Fine Queen scallops grilled in the shell and topped with a smoked salmon butter. They were cooked to perfection and the delicate topping of smoked salmon and citrus butter was perfect. My carpaccio of spiced and cured duck breast, beetroot salad, cherry tomatoes, grated hazelnut, parmesan tuile and, much to my amazement, the pomegranate dressing was a delight. On to the main. There were six choices. Rump of Borders lamb with aubergine confit and Stornoway black pudding in a red wine sauce excited. So did breast of corn-fed chicken filled with Scottish brie and wrapped in Parma ham. Salmon, not surprisingly for a Scottish restaurant, was on the menu, on this occasion with fresh horseradish and herb crumble, but I’d enjoyed salmon for breakfast elsewhere so I passed. Traditional or vegetarian haggis with neeps (carrots and turnips) and tatties (potatoes) were on offer but Duncan selected the rib-eye of Aberdeen Angus beef, smoked Applewood cheddar and onion gratin, caramelised shallot, fine beans with a wild mushroom and Burgundy cream sauce. He’s travelled the world extensively and has eaten the best meat on board ship in all parts of the globe. He adored the dish and has not stopped talking about it since. I was intrigued by the use of pak choi with sea bass. The two dainty fillets arrived on a bed of cherry tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, fine beans, and pak choi, with red chilli and onion and coriander salsa. The softness of the fish fitted well with the vegetables but this was an interesting rather than a spectacular dish. We declined the offer of sweets as we were satisfied. There were five, by the way. Lemon cheesecake, blackcurrent ice cream with red fruits coulis, dark chocolate tear drop and strawberry moose, vanilla pod crème brulee with Stac Polly shortbread, traditional Cranachan (cream, Drambuie, honey, oatmeal and raspberries) or Celtic cheese and home made chutney. Stac Polly reached the heights for Duncan and the intimate restaurant with a strong pedigree certainly deserves a visit.

THAI MASTER CLASS

Krua Thai Cookery School Liberton Edinburgh EH16 6AQ 0131 664 3036 www.kruathai.co.uk Ru Herd looked at the milk pan in which my Pandan leaf had become unravelled and smiled. Hers remained in the white liquid, beautifully tied. I knew it should not have happened but, typically, Ru encouraged constantly throughout my lesson. This was certainly not Hell’s Kitchen. She puts you at ease. However, it is difficult not to be blown away as it is not every day you go one-to-one with a master chef. Ru doesn’t just run a cookery school. She is a food consultant. Major firms come to her kitchen to create and refine dishes. She has a client list with packed with names from around 20 countries. What’s more, celebrities and world-famous sports stars have shared her kitchen. This soft-spoken mum, who has a BA Hons and a myriad of cooking and culinary art, qualifications, also caters for a star-studded guest list and blue-chip companies for corporate events. The list, and her achievements since arriving in the UK over two decades ago from Thailand, are mind-blowing. So, there I was, an amateur chef, standing in her well-appointed kitchen about to create four authentic Thai dishes. On the table were vegetables and fruit which I’d never seen. However, throughout the whole experience, I did not feel intimidated. Rather, I was encouraged to cut, dice, select ingredients and cook four dishes. The proof of the pudding is in the eating goes the old phrase. Well, you get a takeaway so your friends and family can sample the fruits of your labours over the hot stove in Ru’s kitchen. What struck me more than anything else was the subtlety of her approach. All the flavours were balanced. Tasting was done constantly and a wee bit of this and that was added if she was not 100 per cent happy. This was authentic Thai cooking. Some of the ingredients she uses are specially imported from Thailand and Vietnam – that’s how deeply Ru goes into detail. I was introduced to Kra-chaai, Pandan leaf, aubergine – not the ones we are used to – Chinese chives and radishes, galangal, bean curd, Israeli basil – yes it is different - and even dried prawns. We cut and used lime leaves and shrimp paste, created our own stock and I was even advised on which brands of product to buy in a Chinese supermarket. She even provided the locations. Minute detail goes into quality cooking and Ru has this down to a fine art. And, speaking of art, every course delegate receives a stunning carved melon to take away. I was in awe as she does the carving. My takeaway was in a box with a ribbon. Yes, Ru, who has worked in top hotels and restaurants, does that too. And everything is done with a smile and an explanation. If you don’t understand then ask and remember, she will tell you when the vegetables or meat is not cut to her liking! So, what was crammed into my session. I made four dishes. Stir-fried noodles with bean sprouts – we even fried real peanuts which we crushed for this. Fried rice with egg. Believe me, this was top notch and not difficult. Chicken red curry with galangal and lemon grass, and a superb dessert, cooked banana in coconut cream. Impressive list and one which would wow any dinner party guests. And yes, you get to take away the recipes. One drawback, Ru is not by your side when you try to recreate these recipes in your own kitchen. One thing which stood out for me was her organisation. All sauces were sited next to the cooker. All had wee dishes which could easily be accessed and preparation was crucial. We also used only one pan the whole afternoon, apart from cooking dessert, of course, so this was economic cooking. And we also made home-made stock. No, we didn’t add bay leaves and an array of vegetables. We just used parts of a carcass of a chicken and then strained away the fat. This was authentic and the course was packed with hints and tips. The do’s and don’ts of cooking rice, a real problem for me, despite having a rice cooker, basically, I never get it right, were explained even down to simple measuring tricks for rice and water. This was cooking in the raw. It was both educational and entertaining and I loved it. You would too. PS: I’m now off to the Chinese supermarket to buy ingredients. I’m hooked.

PERFECTIONIST PAUL HOMES IN FOR SUCCESS

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street Edinburgh EH3 5AH www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday: 12-2 Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday: 6.30-23.30 0131 226 3500 Stockbridge is one of my favourite parts of Edinburgh. It still retains that homely, village feel, but was incorporated into Edinburgh in the 19th century and it hugs the banks of the Water of Leith as it trundles down to the River Forth. It is little wonder that chef Paul Gunning (pictured) decided to plump for a basement in the trendy, middle-class area to open a new restaurant. And that leap of faith five months ago appears to be paying off. Purslane – named after a small family of succulent leaves, all but one of which is found in the British isles - was packed on the midweek night we were there. That is a testament to Paul’s undoubted craft and artistic flair. His dishes are eye-catching as well as mouth-watering. This cosy restaurant is well worth visiting and not just for the charming location, tucked in among an eclectic mix of sometimes quirky shops – and a few charity outlets -plus a plethora of welcoming restaurants and pubs. Competition is tough. Historic Stockbridge, incidentally, is named after the wooden bridge which used to straddle the nearby river. Painter Henry Raeburn used to live nearby and it has a rich sporting history. The first rugby international between Scotland and England was held at Raeburn Place while, across the road, The Grange Club is the home of Scottish cricket. Indeed, the ground hosted games during the 1999 Cricket World Cup. On a daily basis, Stockbridge is home to some of the most desirable dwellings in the city and it also boasts some distinctive food shops. A game butcher, a wonderful fishmonger, local bread shops are features and the area’s strong association with food includes a distinctive cheese shop. It is no surprise therefore that Paul, who has worked in five star hotels and two to three starred Michelin restaurants, uses local produce, including cheese from the cheese shop, I J Mellis, in his distinctive and constantly evolving offering. Duncan and I spent some time exploring the small but tempting menu before selecting. My dietary problem (lactose intolerant) was not a problem. There are five choices for starter. Chicken liver parfait with redcurrant jelly and melba toast, quail roulade with a pancetta and artichoke salad and a bacon cream, salmon roulette with fennel and tomato compote and whisky cured salmon, tuna tartar with caramelised olive puree and asparagus and potato salad with truffle vinaigrette. Hard choice. Duncan plumped for quail roulade. It was beautifully presented but lacked a distinctive taste. My dark coloured tuna tartar, topped with a quail egg, looked fantastic and tasted divine. The sharpness of the flavour made it one of the more memorable starters I’ve had in ages. On to the main. Once again, five possible picks. Pork loin with sweet potato rosti, braised chicory and caramelised apple, spice encrusted lamb pump with Bombay potatoes, spinach puree and curry dressing, pave of cod wrapped in Parma ham with glazed baby vegetables and a potato and ox tail gateau, sea bream with socca chips, Mediterranean vegetables and caponata dressing and vegetable gateaux with spinach puree and spring vegetables. Duncan loves lamb, indeed he used to be an engineer on board ship and transferred lamb regularly from the other side of the world back to Britain. He was enthused by the Paul’s creation. Cooked perfectly pink, retaining the moisture and with a tasty crust, and boasting a subtle curry twist, the dish was sublime. The spinach puree provoked a lively debate as well as showing off the dish to the full. My cod, with a touch of parsley, which worked wonderfully well, lifting the taste of the soft fish, plus the al dente green vegetables, made this a fine dish. We did, however, have room for sweet. Duncan is a keen gardener and makes his own fruit-based desserts from his fruit trees so he had to try one of Paul’s creations. He was bowled over by the roast plum with a rum and Muscavado sauce and vanilla ice cream. So much so, that I was offered only a tiny sample. My roasted apple and thyme sauce was interesting but not in the same league as Duncan’s. Other possible were white chocolate mousse with dark chocolate sauce and raspberry coulis, orange and Cointreau crème brulee, pear mille feuille with crème Chantilly and caramelised almonds or cheese from Mr Mellis’ round the corner. We felt at home at homely Purslane where two courses cost £21.95 and three a value £25.95. The accommodating waiter, recognising that we were keen to try something different, recommended a Romanian pinot noir. Wonderful advice. It was packed with red fruits and spice. Medium-bodied with a refreshing taste. I’m off to find a bottle of Calusari in my local wine shop.

SUCHI SPECTACULAR AT AWARD-WINNING KANPAI

STUNNING: food artistry at Kanpai

Kanpai
8-10 Grindlay Street,
Edinburgh
EH3 9AS
www.kanpaisushi.co.uk
Tuesday to Sunday: noon to 2.30pm; 5-10.30pm
0131 228 1602

OPINIONS vary when you mention you mention you are going to a Japanese restaurant. Pre-conceptions are hard to shift.
Some people would relish the experience, others would walk the other way, but more and more people are warming to sushi.
Healthy eating is certainly a draw. The main ingredients of raw fish and rice are naturally low in fat, high in protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.
And the dishes are colourful.
Sushi is traditionally eaten for celebrations and it first developed in South-East Asia and spread to China and then Japan.
The word means sour tasting and the first mention in the West appeared in the late 1800s.
Western palates have seen an adaption with rolls being introduced along with non-traditional mayonnaise, avocado and even cream cheese.
And the advent of sushi bars at main stations and airports, and in the centre of major cities, plus major chains like M&S stocking trays in their retail outlets, has accelerated the trend.
I’m a convert and a regular buyer when I travel domestically, preferring healthy to stodge. John, my companion, a leading promoter at the Acoustic Music Centre on the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, was sceptical, but willing to try.
Well Kanpai, and our charming host, Lee Yee Lim, take a bow. The evening proved to be enlightening and entertaining, and it certainly opened our eyes to what can be done with simple ingredients prepared properly with artistry, ingenuity and skill. Some of the presentation was stunning and the fusion of flavour stunning.
Kanpai, for those who know Edinburgh, is situated near the Usher Hall, the city’s leading concert hall, and in the shadow of the popular Royal Lyceum Theatre. Shrewd move, arts lovers can also be discerning diners.
The restaurant name literally means bottoms up in Japanese. Pity, because that’s crude while Kanpai is class. It has only been open since last August but is already an award-winner.
It won the Newcomer of the Year category in the Scottish Restaurant Awards and Kanpai has quickly become regarded as one of the finest traditional Japanese restaurants in Scotland’s Capital. It is easy to see why.
The decor is minimalist, but don’t let that put you off. The welcome is sincere and the restaurant is spotless.
Undoubtedly, going into the gastronomic unknown – particularly when you are having to pay handsomely for the privilege – is daunting.
Our hostess, Malaysian-born Lee Yee Lim, put us at ease, talking us through the beautifully bound and illustrated menu, asking questions about our likes and dislikes, and suggesting what might be most appropriate.
She even consulted the chef to ensure we were not disappointed. That’s customer service.
What’s more, Ms Lim even delivered little surprises like the condiments of pickled ginger (to aid digestion and cleanse the palate) and wasabi, a piquant paste made from the grated root of a plant. It makes your eyes water so watch how much you take.
Diners at laid-back Kanpai can choose to sit at the intimate sushi bar or the open kitchen counter where they can watch their food being prepared.
We preferred a seat in the busy dining-room. Within minutes or ordering, we were eating, that’s the nature of sushi.
So, what did we savour? A tasty twist to Wakame seaweed salad with sesame was recommended. It had a hint of red chilli which kick-started the night perfectly. By the way, it is not dried but moist.
Pan fried vegetable and chicken dumplings were packed with flavour and the seared tuna with homemade dressing on a bed of finely sliced cucumber was heavenly.
John professes not to like eating anything which wriggles in the sea, his words not mine, but the powers of persuasion from Ms Lim worked.
Takoyaki octopus fish cake exploded in our mouths as we bit into the surprisingly soft centre. One disappointment was the fried mixed vegetable tempura – containing carrots, onions and beans - which was bland until dipped in soya sauce.
However, the grilled aubergine in sweet sauce more than made up for it.
The perfectly cooked, medium rare, sirloin steak, finished at the table on an aeromatic Poye leaf, was exquisite but the Teriyaki salmon came nowhere near in terms of taste.
Spicy raw tuna came next along with grilled eel. John had tried eel before and baulked until I had a mouthful. The mackerel-type flavour was both a surprise and delight to the palate.
Kanpai chefs use Scottish produce, freshly prepared and imaginatively presented. Their Dragon Roll – avocado, cucumber and king prawn – is one of the most popular picks on the menu. It is visually stunning.
The Rainbow Roll – raw tuna, salmon, cucumber and avocado – is also popular. Sadly, after such a big build up (they are also mentioned on various internet reviews) both disappointed, possibly because of the avocado.
The dishes were, however, enlivened by a splash of soy and, of course, a piece of picked ginger.
King prawn seemed popular with other diners and the raw scallops were, visually, stunning, sitting on a slice of lemon on a bed of crushed ice decorated with straw, lettuce and radish strands.
There is no doubt that as word spreads then more will find their way to Kanpai and possibly have their eyes, and taste buds, well and truly opened.

HEWAT'S DESERVE SUCCESS

Hewat’s Restaurant
19-21b Causewayside
Edinburgh EH9 1QF
0131 466 6660
queries@hewatsrestaurant.co.uk
www.hewatsedinburgh.co.uk
Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday 12-2
Dinner: Monday to Thursday: 6pm to 9.30pm; Friday and Saturday: 6pm to 10pm.

Richard Hewat has cooked for some demanding people during his culinary career. For example, Royalty, and the best-known 007, Edinburgh-born Sean Connery.
And, he was also head chef at the RBC world headquarters in Edinburgh producing five-star food during the watch of Fred Goodwin.
Attention to detail is therefore second nature. If shows in his planning and his customer service.
Take my situation. I rang up seeking a booking. We discussed diet, I’m lactose intolerant and Kirsty has a gluten allergy.
On arrival, we were both handed separate menus with a varied choice of dishes. We were, quite simply, made to feel welcome not, as sometimes happens, a nuisance.
This restaurant is a family affair. Richard’s wife Margaret is vastly experienced front-of-house, and it shows.
A warm welcome, followed by efficient but unfussy service, was a feature. Nothing was too much trouble for Margaret and her attentive staff.
The couple took the plunge and opened Hewat’s Restaruant eight years ago. It’s situated at Causewayside, ten minutes walk from Edinburgh’s historic Royal Mile.
Therefore, life is just that little bit tougher.
A substantial section of Edinburgh University, including residences at Pollock Halls, is within comfortable walking distance. The busy Queen’s Hall, a popular concert venue, is not far away and surrounding the cosy restaurant, decorated by an eclectic mix of original paintings by named Scottish artists, are a host of flats, many inhabited by students, small hotels and guest houses.
A major insurance company is a stroll away as is a major library, but Richard and Margaret are off the main drag as Edinburgh’s concentration of hotels is on the other side of town.
Hewat’s, therefore, relies on repeat business, local PR and word-of-mouth. Quality and consistency in the food is of paramount importance.
Award-winning Richard, who led a team which won the Egon Roney Seafood Restaurant of the Year Award in a previous employment, knows exactly where his produce comes from.
The chef, who has also worked for major chains including Sheraton and Hilton, believes that is crucial to his operation which concentrates on a combination of classic French and Scottish cuisine.
So, what was there to choose from? Five starters were presented while we savoured home-made rolls fresh from the oven.
Wild mushroom, parsnip and thyme soup, smoked salmon with baby capers and lime, pigeon breast with puy lentil and shallots with red wine, grilled sardines with sun blushed tomatoes and basil or melon platter with orange and passion fruit syrup.
Kirsty selected the soup. It had a wonderful colour and was packed with flavour. My pigeon was eye-catching and interesting, particularly the use of the lentils.
The shallots added an extra dimension but tended to overpower the taste of the meat. However, it was a pleasant starter.
There were six mains on offer. Roast Barbary duck breast with port and redcurrant jus, wild mushroom, red onion and leek risotto with shavings of parmesan, charred vegetables and rocket salad, filet of coley and tomato and basil sauce with crushed new potatoes and wilted greens, blackened Cajun chicken with Thai curry dressing, new potatoes and stir fry peppers, charred sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beef with green peppercorn sauce, lyonnaise potatoes with fine beans (£5 supplement) or medley of sea bass, salmon and tiger prawns with light garlic fish nage, lobster mash with wild garlic.
Kirsty selected the filet of coley. The fish arrived on a bed of vegetables surrounded by roasted cherry tomatoes and looked wonderful. It was well-seasoned and beautifully cooked.
My duck was succulent and worked well apart from the red cabbage which, I felt, was too sweet. However, both dishes were well-received.
As to sweets, dietry considerations ruled here. Kirsty had four to pick from, poached fruits with berry compote, Tiramisu crème brulee with shortbread, chocolate mousse with candied orange of selection of speciality cheeses.
My choice was poached fruits with berry compote or baked banana with honey roasted fig.
Kirsty plumped for chocolate mousse and the candied orange was an added bonus. It was wonderful.
My baked banana was a triumph for creativity.
The 66-seat restaurant has a character of its own. Some of the seats were procured from a former local church. You felt you were sitting in a family pew.
Hewat’s has a loyal customer base and it is easy to see why. The hard-working couple deserve that for their industry.
Give Hewat’s a try. The midweek dinner menu costs £18.95 for two courses or £22.95 for three, quality food at a sensible price. You’ll not be disappointed and the responses from the tables around us on the night was really positive.
By the way, they also take bookings for groups only on days they are normally closed, that’s customer service.

VIRGIN TAKE A BOW FOR YOUR BREAKFAST

Pix courtesy of Virgin Trains:
IT’S 7.05am and chirpy catering assistant Chris offers a warming cuppa and recites the breakfast menu on the Virgin train heading south from Edinburgh. It’s the full English for me, but there is a wide alternative selection and, within minutes, the toast and tea arrived.
Fruit juice followed and the main event was not far behind, delivered by silver service. The fried egg is perched on top of a hash brown and two rashers of bacon. Accompanying it is a dainty black pudding, full of flavour, by the way.
Alternatives included scrambled egg and cereal. It’s a perfect way to start the day as the darkness gives way to light as we race through the Scottish countryside at around 100mph. The view was uplifting, so was the breakfast experience and full marks to Virgin as the service and food was first class.
Food on the move appears one of the key promotional thrusts as train companies attempt to encourage potential business and leisure customers out of their cars and onto the tracks. Long-haul, they are also vying with airlines for your custom on the main routes to Manchester, Birmingham and London.
And Virgin tick the right boxes. After a meeting in Lancashire I jumped on a train to London from Manchester. The menu boasted two hot dishes plus sandwiches.
I plumped for ox cheek, a rather unusual offering. It came in a rich gravy with new potatoes. They were a soggy disappointment but the cheeks – not a popular choice according to the staff - had bags of flavour. The main course was followed by a choice of cheeses. I plumped for Austrian smoked and a mile cheddar served with an oatcake and bread. The cheese was moist and flavoursome and it was washed down by a fruity red.
Both meals were thoroughly enjoyable and the speed of service also allowed me to get some urgent work done without having to worry about catching a snack on arrival.
Because of a lactose intolerance (can’t take dairy) I asked the attendant if the sauce on the ox cheek was unsuitable because of milk or cream content. He didn’t know. I gambled. Companies offering food should brief staff as people with allergies deserve to be accommodated.
East Coast have also recently launched free food for first class passengers. Their full English breakfast menu also included tea, toast, and fruit juice. Sadly, the toast has been cold on the two occasions I’ve had breakfast, and the chef doesn’t do fried eggs, only scrambled. That’s a major blow, particularly for somebody with a lactose deficiency.
And the offering doesn’t, on the occasions I’ve travelled, match the standard of Virgin. I actually travelled back from London on the afternoon East Coast service. We were quickly offered a choice of sandwiches. Salmon and cucumber or egg accompanied by crisps and with the choice of a scone or cake or fruit.
The salmon was spot on and so was the cake. Later, biscuits were offered.
However, my wife travelled down to London on the following day from Edinburgh. She enjoyed the food but passengers joining after York were told: “We’ve run out.”
A first class service means just that. Passengers are paying a premium and the advertised service must be delivered. Incidentally, both Virgin and East Coast offer a free wi-fi service for First Class. East Coast have just upgraded theirs but it didn’t work for me for most of my journey. Most frustrating.
So, what about other operators. I regularly use the TransPennine Express from Edinburgh to Manchester. First class food on the go here is normally a packet of sandwiches. The bread is normally sliced and limp and the filling is a cheese slice and egg and cress plus a piece of normally extremely palatable cake.
The CrossCountry food I’ve sampled recently has been, to put it mildly, poor. My first experienced was a vegetable hot pot. Never again. I’ve subsequently been offered unappetising sandwiches (cheese slices again) which do little more than fill a hole.
So, take a bow Virgin. You are flavour of the month with me but East Coast coming up fast.

ITALIAN WITH ATMOSPHERE

Tricolos
36-37 Newborough
Scarborough
North Yorkshire
Y011 1NF
01723 367842
www.tricolos.co.uk
Open 7 nights a week
Mondays/Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday: 4pm till 9.30pm
Friday/Saturday: 4pm till 10.30pm
Sunday: 4pm till 9.30pm

Scarborough in high season. Seats in restaurants are in short supply and a quality Italian, on this occasion, was a necessity for a party of seven.
We asked around and up popped the name of Tricolos. We took a gamble and it paid off.
Everybody loved it and, so much in fact, that we’ll be back in the North Yorkshire resort next year and where are we most likely to visit? Yes, Tricolos.
Why? Because everybody was more than satisfied with the food and they all loved the atmosphere.
That’s not surprising given that the restaurant has been established since 1977. Then, Mike, Dennis and Ronnie Jaconelli converted their family ice cream parlour into a pizza restaurant.
They wanted to appeal to all ages and the formula is obviously as popular today as it was 34 years ago.
The restaurant is now under the directorship of John and Nicola Senior and Tricoilos serves innovative Italian food in a friendly setting.
Fitting for a seaside resort, and for an Italian restaurant, children are important.
The town centre restaurant boasts a little monkeys menu including, colouring sheets, crayons and a lolly exchange for a clean plate.
There are high chairs and a free baby food heating service to make mum and dad’s visit as hassle free as possible.
We had a mum-to-be in our party and she loved it along with the six other adults. So, what did we have?
A mixture of food. My steamed mussels with garlic, onions, white wine with homemade bread was spot on.
The bruschetta, shared by several, was complemented on. They were chargrilled topped with tomatoes and red onion marinaded in olive oil, garlic and fresh basil.
The garlic bread really was mouth-watering and well above average. In fact, everybody had a taste, it was that good.
And there were no complaints about the tomato and mozzarella salad.
As to mains, the classic calzone was huge. It was stuffed with ham, mushrooms, onions, spinach, mozzarella and topped with olive oil and Napoli sauce. Pete loved it.
My rare sirloin steak was perfect and it came with onion rings, sauté button mushrooms and roast tomatoes. Superb.
Others had lasagne di Bologna and the pene Toscana, chargrilled chicken and bacon, sauté mushrooms and garlic in a creamy tomato sauce topped with mozzarella cheese and finished in the oven, was packed with flavour.
No room for sweets here and we were ready for bed after a walk along the bay to our hotel.

ITIHAAS: QUALITY ON A PLATE

Itihaas
17-19 Eskbank Road
Dalkeith
Midlothian EH22 1HD
0131 663 9800

Open seven days: noon to 2pm and 5pm to 11.30pm
www.itihaasrestaurant.com

MATIN Kahn (pictured second left with his staff) is hands-on at Itihaas, and it shows. He greeted guests for lunch in his suit but admitted that he had been supervising in the kitchen at preparation from 10am.
The 80-cover restaurant is a family affair. His late father was inspirational and his two sons, Hujib and Habibur, are part of the 12-strong staff.
It’s a tight knit team at the beautifully presented, multi-award winning Bangladeshi restaurant.
And it is extremely popular. However, every customer is treated individually and it is no surprise to learn that Itihaas was Scotland’s best Bangladeshi restaurant in 2010 according to Spice Times.
Matin is also a recent recipient of five stars from TripAdvisor. The certificates are proudly displayed in the entrance.
His four chefs are Bangladeshi natives and the restaurant’s reputation brings customers from as far afield as Fife, the city of Edinburgh and all over the Lothians. This is a success story built on hard work and customer care.
All dishes are cooked to order. That was evident in my selection. The vegetarian pakora was served with a small salad. So often, salads are limp, but this was fresh and crisp.
Four sauces, all with their own sharp taste, including a tart but wonderful lime chutney, accompanied the dish.
On to the mains. Matin presented a selection to showcase what his chefs can do and we were not disappointed.
Each had a distinctive taste but none was overpowering. The chicken sag was moist and the spinach cooling.
The Bombay potato was memorable. The potato didn’t collapse on touch and the sauce was packed with flavour.
However, the undoubted star was the lamb Karat Gosh. It was beautifully cooked and the sweetness worked well with the sensational sauce.
Sometimes nan bread can be disappointing, but this was perfect and the pilau rice? Wonderfully aromatic and great to taste.
Itihaas source as much of their food as possible locally. Matin prides himself in only buying only the best meat and fish available.
The restaurant was busy but the slick staff never appear hassled. Situated prominently near the centre of the Midlothian town, is beautifully presented.
Flowers adorn tables covered by crisp linen tablecloths. The cutlery was spotless.
Itihaas enjoys a healthy take-away trade and also provides function catering but a visit to the restaurant is worthwhile.
Frankly, it would be hard to beat the value and my visit underlined what many had said to me. Itihaas is a gem.
Matin says: “When you come here you are in my home.” It was my first visit and I felt at ease. I’ll be back.

NO BONES TO PICK WITH CAFE FISH

Cafe Fish
15 North West Circus Place
Edinburgh
EH3 6SX
T: 0131 225 4431
Open: Seven days from 10am (for coffees and pastries)
From 12 noon with a lunch time and all-day menu
From 6pm for dinner (last orders at 9.30pm)

THE tiny cactus sitting next to the salt and pepper on each table was quirky and spoke volumes for the management of Cafe Fish. Simply, it summed up the attention to detail.
Everything has been thought out, from the decor to what appears on the plate. Cafe Fish can’t be faulted.
The restaurant was first established in Edinburgh’s now trendy old port at Leith in the spring of 2009. News of its quality spread fast and it quickly became a place to visit.
Richard Muir was so strong in his belief that the project would work near the centre of Scotland’s Capital that he took a leap of faith and moved to affluent Stockbridge.
His chosen location is in a former bank and the 1930’s interior features some stunning art deco work, including wonderful wood and marble floors.
An aluminium oyster bar is a prominent feature and it is complemented by aluminium tables. Some could consider this cold, but we felt it oozed class and cleanliness.
The move meant overheads increased, but so did the footfall exposure for this superb establishment. Cafe Fish now enjoys a prominent position near one of Edinburgh’s leading inner-city villages, Stockbridge.
The 65-cover restaurant (with an outside terrace for 18) is open all day, seven days, catering for a cross section, from mums with prams to discerning diners. It is busy, a testament to its quality.
Locally sourced fish and shellfish is key to this project. Even the bread is specially-selected, locally.
Speak to Mr Muir and he will tell you exactly who supplied your pan roasted sea bass or trout and the menu changes to suit what is available.
Cafe Fish is chic but not stuffy and part of that informality is having part of the kitchen on view to diners.
You can watch your meal being constructed before serving. Once again, attention to detail.
Head chef Stuart Lynch has been in charge since last August and his enthusiastic team are anxious to please.
What’s more, they have recruited a Japanese sushi trained and qualified chef, adding a welcome extra touch as well as providing another PR outlet.
Business is brisk. Weekends are heavily booked but weekday business is 70 per cent walk-up, underpinning the superb choice of location.
Cafe Fish is also in demand for groups of between 12 and 18, but don’t worry. The group area is discreetly tucked away at the back of the restaurant.
So, what about the food. It’s a deliciously small menu but with something for everybody, including vegetarian.
Pam opened with Cafe Fish cakes with citrus mayo. The delicate flavours made this a joy.
My selection was grilled queenies (Queen scallops) with Pernod and garlic butter. The dish was beautifully presented and the taste was divine. What’s more, the dressing on the salad was light and just right for the delicate scallops.
Alternatives were cured salmon, beetroot, orange and radish or wild duck terrine, dried plum compote and sour dough toast, Inverawe smoked salmon pate with sour dough toast, or pear, rocket, Gorgonzola, truffle with hazelnut dressing.
On to the main. Shetland blueshell mussels, coconut, chilli, coriander and chips or pan-seared sea bream, aubergine masala, coriander chutney and pilau rice were appealing.
So was the option of gnocci, wild mushroom, sage, onion with parmesan reggiano.
However, Pam picked the Cafe Fish and chips with crushed peas and tartare sauce. We were both curious to see what the chef could do with a well-loved, simple dish.
We’ll, it was worth waiting for. The fish was beautifully cooked, the batter superb, the crushed peas were exquisite and the chips were to die for. Yes, I stole one and the taste, with added sea salt, was superb.
My selection was roast North Atlantic cod, Toulouse sausage and cannellini beans cassoulet with garlic and parsley. The flavour flooded out, to coin a phrase, and the beans and sausage worked well with the cod.
There are other options. For example, Donegal oysters or 28-day aged Orkney rib-eye steak, with Cafe de Paris butter and chips, but they have a supplement.
The overall reaction. Super restaurant and undoubtedly worth a visit, particularly at £22 for two courses.
Oh, and Sunday lunch has just started (to December). Three courses £19.50 including a bottle of wine between two. I’ll be in the queue.
What’s more, and again attention to detail, if you are in a hurry then they are happy to fit you in, and Cafe Fish are delighted to cope with diners with allergies.

LIVINGSTON'S: A TESTAMENT TO QUALITY

LIVINGSTON’S
52 High Street
Linlithgow
01506 846565
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk
Open: Tuesday to Saturday (inclusive): 12-2pm: 6-9pm
Michelin Listed
www.livingstons-restaurant.co.uk

THE ancient town of Linlithgow, 20 miles from Edinburgh, is a tourist destination with its outstanding palace, the birthplace of James V and Mary, Queen of Scots.
We hadn’t been there for some time and, luckily, the rain had stopped allowing us to stroll along the loch and along the bustling High Street to the the family-owned and Michelin-listed Livingston’s Restaurant.
It sits in the shadow of the palace and is a hidden gem. Derek Livingston and his two chefs pay great attention to detail. He even checked my previous reviews to see what I liked and he popped out to buy soya milk just in case I required some.
He took over, after a spell in the kitchen, from his father and mother, Ronald and Christine, who started their restaurant in the early 1990s.
A testimony to their success is a regular clientele from a wide area and this restaurant has thrived in a highly-competitive market despite not having a frontage on the main street.
Livingston's is tucked away down a close. The secluded situation, with a view onto a garden, adds to its attraction.
So does its policy of using local producers. Take the amushe bouche. Moist haggis, wonderfully seasoned, sitting on a bed of blitzed turnip with a gossamer thin potato slice balanced delicately on top. Source? A local farmer from a village two miles away.
Tables in the original stone building, which has an extension into the garden, are candle-lit. The rich red furnishings add to the ambience, but there is nothing fussy about Livingston’s. It is a place where you can enjoy the food and chill out.
The menu has four choices for starters, mains and desserts. Ample, in my opinion, and, if you have diet or allergy concerns, then don’t worry, Derek and his team are well-versed in producing an alternative.
So, what was on offer? Summer vegetable broth, pan seared scallops, Stornoway black pudding beignet, spiced cauliflower puree and apple pickle, ballontine of rabbit saddle, purple carrot ribbons, carrot cones, carrot gel and petit leaves or warm fillet of West Coast mackerel, smoked aubergine tapenade, basil puree, lentil and radish dressing.
All mouth-watering, but I homed in on pan seared scallops. They were beautifully presented and cooked, and the black pudding was devine.
On to mains. Fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef, daube croquette, pomme rosti, celeriac and mustard puree, silverskin onions and watercress, roast saddle of Perthshire lamb, braised shoulder, fondant potato, pea puree, pea salsa verde, sous vide tail of monkfish, wam salad of samphine and seasonal greens, red wine poached salsify or roast breast of poussin, confit leg of tortellini, ficasse of mushroom, pancetta and baby leek and Albufera sauce.
Difficult choice. However, Pam’s Aberdeen Angus was superb and the accompanying attractions, particularly the silverskin onions, worked perfectly.
The contrast in my lamb selection was interesting. Both were beautifully cooked and the tasted sublime, but the saddle was perfection, moist and sweet and the taste lingered.
The pre-pudding was an unexpected delight. Carrot cake which melted in the mouth. Now, on to the puddings. Once again, four choices were available, Cranachan, Turkish delight, strawberries and cream or a selection of Scottish cheeses with homemade oatcakes and chutney.
Pam plumped for strawberries and cream. Actually, it was much, much more than that. The strawberry brulee, basil gel, macerated strawberries and fromage blanc ice cream was strikingly served with dainty meringues. She was disappointed with the taste. Conversly, I had a spoonfull and loved it. We both felt the accompanying meringues were spongy.
My Turkish delight comprised chocolate ganache, Turkish jelly, rose sorbet and candied pistachio. The rose sorbet was tart and I felt the rich chocolate overpowered the rest of the dish.
By that time, night had drawn in and the full effect of the candle-lit atmosphere of the restaurant – which can take 60 covers - became fully apparent.
Coffee was served (with sugar cubes and a cute little box with sweetners inside, lovely touch) with Mrs Livingston’s home-made tablet, one piece normal and the other coconut. It was exquisite and an ideal finishing touch.
Livingston’s deserve praise and it’s no wonder that they have won a number of accolades including a Macallan Out of Town Restaurant Award, two AA rosettes, plus a listing in the respected Michelin Guide.
The restaurant, and Linlithgow, are well-worth a visit. Make no mistake, Derek will look after you.