ROTTERDAM: A SURPRISE PACKAGE

ROTTERDAM, Europe’s biggest port, and internationally known for its modern architecture, design and creativity, also features a number of festivals ranging from a BladeRun rally to the largest Carribean carnival summer party in Europe and, together, they form a major plank in the city’s tourism promotion.
Rotterdam is conveniently close to Den Haag, the seat of Government of The Netherlands, and the vibrant city of Amsterdam, renowned the world over for its canals and bicycles, so it is an ideal base for touring.
We had a whistle-stop, one-day, tour and had our eyes opened, not just by the variety of the offering but also in the food.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE: The Dutch are past masters at invention and discovery. Dutch scientists and engineers have made a remarkable contribution to human progress as a whole, from something as simple as the sawmill to microbiology. It is also home to a number of fine museums.
The Boijmans, one of the oldest museums in The Netherlands, includes Dutch and European masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the 21st century.
From ancient to modern. Towering above the city is the 185-metre Euromast. The concrete skeleton was built in 23 days and a restaurant, 92 metres high, serves an international cuisine.
Below lies Europe’s first pedestrianised shopping area was opened in the Lijnbaan in 1953 and it offers a choice of large stores and small boutiques. It is also an area for clubs and theatres.
Modern buts on to historical and the city, devastated during the Second World War, still boasts impressive relics of the past. Historic ships contrast with the modern backdrop in Oude Haven (Old Harbour) where the first skyscraper in Europe was built in 1989.
The Maritime Museum is the oldest in the country with over 500,000 exhibits and the working Harbour Museum (free) features operating cranes and where traditional crafts are demonstrated.
Consider buying a welcome card which offers discounts of 25 per cent to 50 attractions (museums, restaurants and entertainment venues) plus up to three days unlimited travel.

EATING OUT: We sauntered into versatile Smaak. Located in at Westelijk Handelsterrein, it serves lunch, cocktails and dinner. The comfortable and informal setting was ideal for our party. So was the menu. There was bags of choice. The marinade of Norwegian salmon was tempting, so was the beef carpaccio (pine nuts, chives, bacon, Parmesan cheese, capers and a raspberry dressing).
I was also interested by sushi of mackerel, avacado and an apple and curry chutney but I plumped for a cold salmon salad which was superb. Others had spicy pumpkin soup with chopped spring onion and bacon which was also appreciated.
Main was also a problem, for all the right reasons. Skate with green asparagus, tomatoes and lemon beurre blanc was interesting so was the lamb fillet with a terrine of sweet potatoes, mini carrots, spinach, cream of pea and cress and port sauce. Indonesian-style chiken was tempting I eventually plumped for a simple steak.
I was fortunate. I enjoy rare and it came like that. Surprisingly, nobody was asked for their preference, a real downer particularly for those who don’t do rare.
For sweet, even the French in our party liked the vanilla creme brule. There was also white chocolate panacotta, salad of blood orange and blackberry jelly but I opted for sorbet. It was beautifully presented and came in three flavours with nuts. It was so good I had to fend off some admiring fellow diners.
There is a choice not just on the menu. This quality restaurant also has an undercover terrace for those who want to sample the dishes from around the world in an even more laid-back environment.
Restaurant Smaak (Restaurant Smaak: Van Vollenhovenstraat 15, Rotterdam, Netherlands (tel:+31 (0)10 436 2294; +31 (0)10 436 2294, e-mail: info@restaurantsmaak.nl
cost three course set menu: £35 - £50 per person. Open every day from noon) is one of many wine and dine venues in the Westelijk Handelsterrein complex, and the converted warehouse, which dates from 1894, is only a short walk from the main harbour area. Smaak, incidentally, translates into taste in English. This establishment has taste in more than once sense.
Also, if you don’t fancy a full meal, try Stadhuisplein which has popular bars and pavement cafes. Every night is party night in that area.
MaHo is another place for a drink with a variety of coffee bars, pubs, lunchrooms, take-aways and restaurants. You won’t want for somewhere to sit, refresh yourself and watch the world go by in Rotterdam but there is plenty to do and see.

SLEEPOVER: We stayed at the well-appointed Inntel Hotel, Rotterdam Centre, overlooking the harbour. Our room was E120 (shower only, facing the street) and breakfast £18. The room, which thankfully had a really comfortable bed, had all modern features and a mini bar and tea/coffee making facilities but, irritatingly, a 1ltr bottle of still water was charged at E4.95 and 0.5ltr at E3.50. The breakfast had fruit and cereal options followed by a selection of meat and cheese or cooked (scrambled eggs and sadly off-putting, greasy bacon). The selection of rolls and bread was a bonus. Residents enjoy high-speed, free internet access and it is well used by businessmen who can enjoy the meal plus a glass of champagne. A gym and small swimming pool is open from 6am to 11pm. I opted out.

ROUND-OFF: The bustling, industrial city of Rotterdam was not on the top of my must-see destinations. However, it surprised me with its variety and versatility. The old part has charm but it is overshadowed by the ever-changing skyline. The contemporary art had appeal and you have to hand it to the city’s PR machine for the variety of their attractions now on offer. They are trying hard to promote the city and it is worth a look as it is so close to Amsterdam which remains the No 1 tourist trap.

GETTING THERE: By EasyJet to Schiphol, Amsterdam, and then by train to Rotterdam (around 35 mins). It could not be easier as the train station buts onto the airport. The station at Rotterdam is in the heart of the city.

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE IN BARNARD CASTLE

Spice Island
9 Market Place
Barnard Castle
DL12 8NF
01833 630575
Open seven days: 5.30pm to 11pm

It’s after 8pm in Barnard Castle and we’d been driving for nearly two hours heading for Hartlepool from Blackpool after a day of meetings.
We were hungry and frustration was creeping in after one pub said they stopped serving food at 2pm and another was also closed for meals.
Sadly, there is too much of that in Britain, but that’s another story. Thankfully, and out of desperation, I asked the second publican if anybody sold food in the town at that time of night.
“There’s a very good Indian three doors down,” he said. We thanked him and headed for it as hunger pangs were increasing rapidly.
The Spice Island came into view. First impressions were encouraging. The modern decor indicated that care and attention to detail was important to the owners.
The question was, would that extend to the food? The fully air conditioned restaurant claimed to serve “exquisite” Indian cuisine.
The extensive menu didn’t disappoint neither did the service, slick and efficient without being overbearing.
Dishes can vary so much between Indian restaurants so my business colleague Elaine and I decided to ask the waiter for his suggestions.
We both wanted something mild but packed with flavour so he had a wide selection to pick from.
Elaine was looking for a chicken dish and our waiter suggested hariali, lean chicken marinated and barbecued over the tandoor, cooked with fresh garlic, ginger, chilli, cream and spinach. The mild dish was served with pilau rice.
I prefer lamb so he came up with devdasi, braised, golden brown, tender lamb in onion, garlic, ginger and un-ground garam massala also served with pilau rice.
Elaine’s dish looked superb with the greenness of the spinach contrasting beautifully with the creamy, yellow sauce. What’s more it tasted wonderful. All the flavours came through and the mixture was superb.
My lamb was visually eye-catching and it was packed with flavour. Once again, all the elements could be defined – including the bay leaves - and the overall affect was stunning.
Portions were just right and the accompanying pilau rice came in a pyramid which was aesthetically pleasing.
Around 90 per cent of the dishes on the menu are Balgladeshi-based and chef Rafique Uddin deserves credit.
The well-established, family run restaurant was busy even on a balmy Thursday night. They deserve the custom.
There are also other branches nearby. If I’m ever back that way then I’ll pop in. Both Elaine and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

IN THE SPIRIT OF BOURBON

BOURBON
60 Victoria Street
Belfast
BT2 7BB
028 9033 2121
www.bourbonrestaurant.com

DILEMMA. Strange city, lack of knowledge, don’t want to take a cab
or walk too far, seeking city centre but looking for quality food at a decent price.
So, what do you do? Ask the locals, of course, then consider your options. That’s exactly what I did in Belfast.
I’ve been there before briefly on business and know of The Crown Bar, one of the oldest and most loved landmarks in Belfast, just across from the Europa Hotel.
The Irish stew and Guinness is sensational at The Crown, but that is not what we were looking for. However, we did retire there later.
Bourbon came up on the radar as a possible and so we booked for a party of four, all with different likes and dislikes. The spring/summer menu seemed to fit all tastes.
It could not have been handier, just across the road from the four-star Europa and places were available – but not many.
That’s a good recommendation on a Wednesday night during a recession with Spain playing Germany in the World Cup as a counter attraction.
I’m aware that Belfast is in Northern Ireland and they were not in the World Cup, but Scotland and Wales didn’t make it either and England didn’t last long. However, there is general interest in the football.
So, what of the selection? There were 13 starter options and the roast tomato and red pepper soup, olive oil and croutons stood out for me. It was absolutely brilliant and the portion was enormous.
Grilled garlic Portobello mushrooms, pepper gapon cheese gratin also proved popular with two of my colleagues and the crisp goats cheese and Iberico ham pizza with creamed roquette salad was another winner.
On to the main course. Casserole of spring lamb Irish stew, early vegetabes and Guinness wheaten was attractive and caused much discussion. I’d eaten Irish stew earlier so I side-stepped that option.
The 12 other options had my colleagues silent for some time while they picked.
Grilled sea bass on a casserole of white beans, chorizo and tomato was selected by two of us. Both John and I loved the look and taste of the dish.
The chorizo provided extra flavour but the fish was not overpowered by the sauce. The triple cooked hand-cut chips were a delight.
The Irish Angus beefburger with baby gem tomato and Cashel Blue mayo plus triple cooked chips also went down extremely well.
And there were no complaints about the crisp local Fermanagh pork belly, roast apples, carrot puree and Calvados sauce.
Not surprisingly, nobody could find a place for dessert. And the overall impression? Extremely favourable.

I'M LOCKED INTO THE CELLAR DOOR

The Cellar Door
44-46 George IV Bridge
Edinburgh
EH1 1EJ
0131 226 4156
www.thecellardooredinburgh.com
Open seven days: lunch 12-3: dinner 6 till late: high tea 3-6: brunch (Saturday and Sunday only) 10am to noon

SOUTH African-born Ivan Leader has a passion for Scotland. That’s why he moved to Edinburgh, a city he fell in love with.
Currently, citizens of Auld Reekie, and tourists, are falling for his new city centre restaurant, The Cellar Door, which opened only five months ago.
It is housed in a converted from a former warehouse and the 50-cover diner sits in the city’s tourist area.
Just off the city’s world-famous Royal Mile and yards from the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, the Skye Terrrier dog who reportedly spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray, until he died in 1872, the candle-lit restaurant offers an affordable option for discerning diners.
Ivan and his wife Morven are hands on. They use local suppliers and change the menu regularly.
They also like to surprise diners. A two course (£13.95) or three course (£17.95) surprise dinner menu is on offer. You are then at the mercy of head chef Eden Sinclair, however, nobody should worry. He won’t create anything that you can’t or won’t eat.
A static on the menu are main course grills. Prime cuts of Aberdeen Angus beef, hung for a minimum of three weeks, are offered, and the meat is sourced by Eden.
An 8oz fillet steak is £18.95 or a 16oz T-bone £23.95. Chateau Briand (for two) is £39.95 and the steaks are served with four choices of sauce including blue cheese.
Char grilled Perthshire lamb cutlets or organic Spring lamb are alternatives.
All seven starters appealed. Haggis fritters served with a whisky sauce was a possible along with salmon, lime and coriander fishcake with a celeriac coleslaw and a sweet chilli dressing were among them.
However, I couldn’t resist the grilled Stornoway black pudding and goats cheese salad served with a Somerset apple dressing.
The black pudding and goats cheese blended beautifully. A great choice. One of my companions was not disappointed by the haggis fritters and neither was the second with the soup of the day plus crusty, home-baked bread.
We couldn’t wait for the next course but it was hard to pick from the five mains. Stir-fried loin of beef with coriander style noodles, leek and smoked cheddar risotto, a home-made beef burger served with chunky chips and a choice of three sauces, including Strathdon Blue, or grilled fish of the day.
The fact that sea bass was on offer sold it for me. The fish nestled on the top of a mound of spiced new potatoes and buttered baby spinach. The flavours merged beautifully.
Pam tucked into grilled free range chicken with flageolet beans, smoked bacon and sweet corn. We also asked for a side order of home-made chips as my other guest, Chris, wouldn’t allow us to steal any more of his. He loved his burger.
The restaurant also boasts a ten cover, street-level patisserie specialising in quality cakes, confectionary and hand-made chocolates, all made on site by Petra, specially flown in from Germany.
What’s more, a varied brunch menu is available on Saturday and Sunday. For example, a traditional breakfast is £7.95 but if you fancy eggs Florentine and baby spinach and Hollandaise sauce on a bed of toasted, home-baked, crusty bread it is £5.95.
Simply, I’m now locked into The Cellar Door.

L'ESCARGOT BLEU, A TASTE OF FRANCE IN CENTRAL EDINBURGH

L’Escargot Bleu
56 Broughton Street
Edinburgh
EH1 3SA
0131 557 1600

www.lescargotbleu.co.uk

THERE is much to commend L’Escargot Bleu. The ambiance, its location, Rebecca, an impeccable manager, and the care and attention put into the food, to name a few.
However, there were irritants which worked against what could be a superb city centre restaurant.
Let’s start with the pluses. Pam’s Scottish asparagus and black pudding with grain mustard and herb crumbs was sensational.
The pudding was moist and the topping exploded in the mouth. A stunning starter.
My grilled fillet of red mullet served on a bed of baby artichoke salad with a walnut oil vinaigrette was eye-catching.
The moist, warm mullet, however, jarred with the cold artichoke, a disappointment. The vinaigrette was subtle and appealing.
There were five other starters including steamed mussels Basquaise with Roscoff onions, red peppers and tomato or chicken galantine with black truffles served with a Gribiche sauce.
On to the main. Undoubtedly, the owners stick to their slogan of a French twist using the best of Scotland.
Eight selections were available. I was particularly tempted by the gratin of Stirlingshire line caught pike and squid in Armoricaine sauce with baby spinach.
The braised ox cheeks with a la Bourguignonne with pancetta and mushrooms was appealing.
There was also the signature dish, Buccleuch estate whole rib of beef cooked to your liking and carved at the table, served with potatoes, jus and a green salad.
However, Pam plumped for duck au vin – yes duck – and my selection was home-made bouillabaisse with a fish selection served with aioli and croutons.
Sadly, the duck failed to excite. It was well-cooked but lacked significant flavor and the accompanying cauliflower – no cheese topping – was in marked contrast to the sweetness of the duck. The accompanying salad was superfluous.
My bouillabaisse was packed with flavor and the accompanying spoon was just the job for mopping up the excellent juice.
However, the green salad which accompanied it was lumped in with the sauce. Warm lettuce is not my favourite dish.
Furthermore, the grilled prawns, I felt, were out of place. I was assured later that they were included by the chef to provide rustic authenticity. I’d have preferred they were not there.
L’Escargot Bleu produces interesting food and is extremely popular, but needs to concentrate on fine detail to move it up a notch.

BOYLE AT THE DOUBLE IN BRITISH

SCOTTISH butcher Paul Boyle (pictured with his wife) celebrates winning TWO British titles by making more pies.
The Bathgate-based businessman, who has twice won the World Scotch Pie Championship, beat a record field to take the fish pie category and the vegetarian division at the British Pie Championships.
Boyle, 52, of Boghall Butchers, Boghall, Bathgate, won the fish pie crown last year with the same pie, a cod and white wine creation.
Last year he had puff pastry on top but this time he had to have a lid following a rule change.
That was the only alteration to the recipe for the pie he sells three times a week in his busy shop in the middle of a council housing estate.
His haggis, potatoe and turnip pie is hugely popular and is on sale every day.
Boyle, a former chef, said: “The vegi pie is a big seller over a big cross section of customers, from workmen in boiler suits to housewives.
“The cod and white wine pie is also a good seller, but not as good as the vegi one. We’re absolutely delighted with the double win.
“Last year we upped our turnover and drew a lot of new customers to the shop with our success in the British Championships. We’re expecting to the same this time.”
He added: “It’s great to keep winning awards. I’ve won the World Scotch Pie Championship twice, once in 2009 and also in 2005, and I’ve also won three British titles in two years.
“Winning keeps the name of the shop in the headlines and brings new customers from all over. However, we’re also proud to serve our regular customers who have helped us grow the business to a position where we now have nine staff.”
Scotland also claimed three runners-up spots. Stuart’s of Buckhaven, Fife, were second with their Apple Pie while Perthshire-based Simon Howie Butchers of Dunning was second in the Football Pie category. He supplies to Celtic Park.
And Nevis Radio were second with their venison pie made by Nevis Bakery of Fort William.
Over 20 top Scots piemen entered the British Pie Championships including three World Scotch Pie champions – the current holder, Murdoch Brothers from Forres, plus Stuart’s of Buckhaven and Boghall Butchers of Bathgate. This year’s event generated a record field of 122.
They submitted 713 products for judging – a 40 per cent increase on the first British Pie Championships 12 months ago – at the event in Melton Mowbray.
Fife-baker and butcher, Alan Stuart, founder of the World Scotch Pie Championship, now in its 11th year, said: “This is once again a testament to Scots bakers and butchers who continue to supply quality produce.
“Scots won four a number of major awards last year but the competition was tougher and the challenge was really on. We’ve won two this year and earned three runners-up prizes. That is tremendous and winning awards generates a tremendous amount of positive publicity with translates into sales.

FOR THE RECORD: In 2009, Paul Boyle of Boghall Butchers, Bathgate, won the Best Fish Pie in Britain title, A J Learmonth of Jedburgh produced the Best Savoury Pie in Britain, Macdougall and Hastie of Inverness with the Best Football Pie in Britain and the Best Apple Pie in Britain title went to Stuart’s of Buckhaven.

NOVELLO: A LYTHAM HIGHLIGHT

NOVELLO restaurant came onto my radar thanks to a personal recommendation from a local resident in Lytham, and Chris obviously savours good food and a relaxed atmosphere.
I enjoyed the experience even if I was dining alone. Novello is easy to find, comfortable and the service is slick.
What's more, the care and attention to detail was a massive plus for this family owned and run restaurant.
It is in the main street in the up-market Lancashire seaside town but prices are extremely reasonable.
The gourmet menu, for example, has a two course for £18.95 and three course for £23.95. When I visited, a free bottle of house wine was provided with the three course from Sunday to Thursday. Check for changes.
So what was on offer? King prawn cocktail with aioli and rocket salad, Italian antipasto with fresh bread. Believe me the bread is fresh as they bake it themselves daily and it has a subtle twist.
Caramelised fig and mozzarella and rocket. There is also fried baby calamari. Mains on the day were chicken risotto with mushrooms garlic and cream, spaghetti with king prawns and crispy sausages, chilli and garlic, seared sea bass with sauteed potatoes and a tomato and basil salsa or seared sirloin of beef with red wine sauce.
Sweets were Italian tiramisu, orange pannacotta or sticky toffee pudding with butter scotch sauce.
OK, your mouth is watering so what did I choose? I pondered long and hard but went off menu. The range is extensive.
The caramelised chicken livers with smoked bacon and balsamic reduction were interesting. The smoked bacon gelled with the balsamic and this was a dish to be savoured.
I was sorely temped by the Lancashire fillet of beef with wilted baby spinach and red wine sauce and by the pan fried duck breast with sauteed cabbage, creamed potatoes and a red win jus.
However, I plumped for the seared sirloin of beef minus the rich pepper sauce. It was the fat chips which swayed the decision. Sorry.
It was such a good experience that I ventured back a few weeks later. I selected the seared sea bass this time and was not disappointed.
The dish was artistically crated and looked wonderful with the colour of the tomato and basil salsa contrasting with the remainder of the dish. The flavours all merged apart from the salsa which was, for me, a little tart. However, I'd have the dish again if I make a return trip, minus the salsa.